gjestico

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Welcome to the RCUniverse Fury Extreme review. I will be doing this review in forum here with individual posts for each stage of construction with pictures. Those with experience on the Fury or questions about items feel free to pipe in.
I would like to thank Ricks RC for supplying the kit, engine, muffler and blades. Check them out at www.ronlund.com.

The Fury is Miniature Aircraft's latest machine being an all-new design from Miniatures X-cell line of helis, but using many of the parts proven in previous X-cell helis. It is built with all 3-D features included, Torque tube tail drive, CF Tail Boom, CCPM swashplate control, ballbearings everywhere. The CCPM design and overall low parts count results in a lightweight machine.It has a very distinctive head-on profile, being quite a bit narrower than any other heli in this size range. This is touted as an advantage to backwards flying due to less drag

Fury is available in 6 versions, There being a 50 engine size basic and expert style, 60 size basic and expert, And the Fury extreme which has several features included to suit the latest "Big-Block" motors, IE longer carbon fiber tailboom, beefier Head parts and triple bearing mainshaft, as well as a metal tail gearbox. The longer boom allows use of 700+MM mainblades. The Extreme is broken into two kit versions, depending on engine choice of the YS 80 or OS 91. The only difference between the two kits being gear ratio to suit the engine, 8.18:1 for the OS 91, and 8.45:1 for the YS 80. This review will focus on the YS version.

Items used to complete the Fury will include:
YS80 engine
Hatori SB 15 muffler
Futaba Gv-1 governor
Futaba 601 gyro
Futaba 9252 cyclic/pitch servos
TG 710 blades.
Airtronics Stylus transmitter and receiver.

This combo represents the best parts available for a no-limits machine.

gjestico

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Upon opening the box one will find that all the parts are grouped in individual numbered bags that correspond with stages in the construction manual. All packaging was well done with little chance of any shipping damage occurring. My first impression of all the parts, inspecting them through the bags, shows a high level of quality. Locktite and allen wrenches were included, nice attention to detail. The manual is quite comprehensive, appears well organized although some of the illustrations could be sharper.
Included is a very nice white gelcoated glass canopy, just about ready to paint. There are scribe lines present for masking of the windshield outline and for the various cutouts that need to be made. A nice decal set is included that can be used on the canopy, But this canopy if off to canopyFX (www.canopyfx.com) for one of their custom paint jobs that will make this heli proud.

gjestico

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Jumping right into it we begin with the rotor head, Step 1.1 in the manual. The flybar seesaw is already assembled out of the bag, allowing you to skip step 1.1B in the manual.
the main head block is aluminum and very nicely machined.
The bags to the left in the picture contain a selection of shims that can be used to adjust the head damping,

gjestico

My Feedback: (2)

The head goes together pretty straightforward. I was impressed by the beefiness of the blade grips and large thrust and radial bearings. A set of snap ring pliers is needed to install the feathering spindle clips, these clips preload the damping o-rings leaving the blade holders free of tension.
The manual has you install the flybar at this point, I am going to leave that till later so I don't poke mysef in the eye while working around the heli

manilaheli

For the uninitiated. MA's ball links can be a little tough to thread into plastic. Use a 1.5 mm allen key (preferably with handle) on the end of the ball and slowly ream it into whatever plastic part it needs to be threaded into.

Also, it makes good sense to have a shallow container with some isoprohyll alcohol always on hand to clean all the bolts of it's protective coating (used so that al bolts will not rust before sale)prior to installing in the heli. This ensures any loctite you will use with the bolts will have a good metal surface to bond with.

Loctite is included in the kit, so you don't have to get your own stock.

I also deferred installing the flybar (and flybar carrier) until later on when I had to mount the rotorhead on the main mast.

At this early stage in the game, you also have to make sure you have some good adhesive ready (JB weld) aside from the usual CA. If you don't plan to finish your fury in one sitting (which is normal), get some JB weld ready for the next succeeding sessions so you won't get cut off midstream.

You will also need to make sure your dremel is working and have enough cutting wheels if you plan to use Futaba servos. Safety is paramount when using these tools so better have protective gloves and goggles ready as well.

It's also wise to read ahead to Canopy preparation and painting and do the canopy in between steps if you plan to paint it on your own. This is because paint takes awhile to dry and if you want it really done well, you need to take the time to let stuff dry between steps. For the artistically-challenged, it's also wise to go have the canopy done professionally either by a good body shop or those who paint motorcycle helmets for a living.

Furyflyer2

My Feedback: (117)

How many shims did you use in the head?

gjestico

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I went with the suggested ( by the instructions) firmer setting of one 1mm shim plus one .25 mm shim for a total of 1.25mm each side.

gjestico

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Here we go with step 2.1 assembling the L main frame.
The frame plates are made from G-10 material.
Central to the Fury design are the aluminum channels that connect and brace the frame halves, Ensuring square alignment.

gjestico

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No hangups here, Frame goes together as instructed. In this pic the stock bearing blocks for the TR drive and main intermediate bearing are shown. In a later post the optional single block that replaces these will be shown.

gjestico

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The main gear is nicely machined and includes the beefy sprag clutch for the auto system. A split gear system is used to provide for a constant driven tail during autos.

gjestico

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The gear parts go together really well, thanks to the nicely machined parts. There is a point during assembly where the sprag bearing is filled with a significant quantity of oil, tri-flow reccomended. Some adjustment for fine tuning of the fit between the gears is done using shims that will be installed during the next step.

gjestico

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Here we are going to install the main gear and main shaft to the frame. This is a critical step, a selection of shims is provided to adjust the auto hub axial play and the TR drive gear lash. The TR drive gear lash is very important to get as close as possible, the life of the inner main gear depends on it. How to accomplish this is stated in the manual.
In this shot you can see the upgrade bearing block (gray colour) just above the main gear. This helps ensure the alignment of the gears.
Visible to the front of the frame are the threaded inserts that will retain the servo screws. A nice touch to prevent fumbling around inside the frames with nuts.

gjestico

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The right main frame has been prepared with the rear CCPM bellcrank, also in this pic you can see the radio support tray has been added to the left frame. The frame halves are ready to be joined.

gjestico

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Main frames assembled with CCPM bellcranks.

gjestico

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Gear parts.

gjestico

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The gear goes on easily and this is where we are now:

Lift

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry to interrupt the "Extreme" review but I had a couple of questions regarding the differences between the Expert and Extreme. If you don't mind.....that is

1) The upgrade bearing block is only on the Extreme version?

2) Your kit shows silver skids and white struts. Are these standard on all Fury kits??

3) Can you overtighten the mainshaft or tailrotor bearing blocks and cause unwanted loading on the bearings?

Looks great so far. If your camera has a flash it might help some of these images if you are far enough away and can zoom in...

Furyflyer2

My Feedback: (117)

1) The upgrade bearing block is only on the Extreme version?

A- Yes

3) Can you overtighten the mainshaft or tailrotor bearing blocks and cause unwanted loading on the bearings?

A- No they no longer have a through bolt , all the bearing blocks now come threaded.

gjestico

My Feedback: (2)

The many Furys I have seen, experts and extremes, have the white struts and bare aluminum gear tubes. They have been newer kits though.

flmgrip

My Feedback: (2)

did not come with my extreme, nor did it come with two BB supports in the tail...

gjestico

My Feedback: (2)

I am not sure if the TR drive bearing block is standard on the Extremes now. I do know that another local flyer here had the double bearing torque drive standard in his latest kit.

gjestico

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I am going to jump forward from the sequence in the manual and get to the TR gear.

Here are the hub parts. Thrust bearings are included and I was pleased to find the hub needed no grinding to balance.

gjestico

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Pitch slider parts:

gjestico

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Gearbox parts. The Extreme has an aluminum case standard.

flmgrip

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when doing a review you should stick with stock parts out of the box...

thanks