Ecklund1

Yeah, I did the fan right away and I'll do the clutch the first time I have to do a tear down.

techrtr

One of the advantages of buying a kit and only having to worry about your own screw ups.

techrtr

Well, got the Kinetic 50 together and finally managed to start the motor. Problem is, everytime I start it, I end up having to fix it, or a piece of my equipment. First attempt resulted in the spring pin that holds the cone on my starter shearing off. Then, the fan and clutch started to loosen off of the engine and started to rub on the fan shroud. Fixed it and the next time I tried to start the motor, I got it running and burned through the first tank of fuel. Then the fan and clutch started to rub on the fan shroud again so I had to fix it. Next time I tried to start the heli, my starter wand chewed up the starter insert like a big eraser. My local hobby shops don't carry replacement parts like that, so rather than waiting for 2 weeks to get one, I used the old cordless drill and cut off hex key trick. Actually worked like a charm although the hex key kept on loosening off so I had to stop and tighten it every couple of seconds. The drill works so well, I'm wondering if I'll even go back to the Torquemaster again. Ran the engine a couple of times before the fan and clutch loosened off, rubbing the fan shroud again. I'm very glad that this isn't happening when the heli is a hundred feet up. Fixed it again and burned through a few tanks of fuel today, although at one point, a big chunk of the fan flew off. I can still start the motor, even with the piece missing, but I have an aluminum upgrade on order now. I think I read somewhere that the way the starting mechanism is set up on the Kinetic 50 makes it really easy for the fan and clutch to get twisted off of the motor when starting it.

Question is, are all nitro helis this big of a pain in the *****? If I had bought a T-Rex 600 N or a TT Raptor, would I have to be constantly fixing it? I'm actually kind of afraid to fly it because I'm thinking if all of these things are falling/loosing off on the ground with the motor idling, what's going to happen when I actually get it into the air.

syclic

You are experiencing the problems associated with ANY nitro heli when you do not assemble the clutch and fan parts to the engine properly.

I will bet my bottom dollar that you did not screw the threaded clutch all the way to the bottom, securely against the proper washer that only rides against the inner race of the front engine bearing. You MUST do this using locktite AND securing the crankshaft so that it cannot turn while screwing the clutch down. Then insure the fan is properly KEYED into the top of the clutch and secure it using the proper washer and locktite on the prop nut. This is the same on ALL nito helis.

This is all specially important in colder weather, because a flooded engine can kick backwards when starting, and tend to loosen anything screwed to the crankshaft.

Because your assembly in not properly secured, the clutch is breaking loose and unscrewing. As it unscrews, it pushes the fan assembly up into the fan shroud. This is what caused the fin to break off of your fan.

Remove your engine and install the clutch assembly properly along with a new fan and you will not need the metal fan. If your clutch is not screwed down properly to the crankshaft, a new fan will still be pushed up into the fan shroud. And if you try to start your engine when it is partially or fully flooded, you may also end up destroying the one-way bearing in the center of it. If this bearing did not give or the assembly would not break loose, then you would be bending the conrod in your engine.

Believe me, the solution to your problem is to insure you screw the threaded clutch down properly, and insure that there is not too much fuel in your engine when you try to start it.

Learning to fly a nitro heli is a relatively steep learning curve, and learning to assemble all their components properly, is all part of it.

syclic

oops - double entry!

techrtr

Took my Kinetic 50 off for the first time yesterday. Pretty intimidating the first time you fly something bigger than a 450. No surprises. Nice, stable hover, tail held really well, nothing fell off. I think I'm going to have lots of fun with this helicopter.

nzak

Glad to hear it worked out. I should have mine in the air in a day or so. Waiting for the extreme link reciever to get here.

techrtr

The tips posted by the other guys who have built and flown the Kinetic really helped out. When I finished mine, the pitch on both blades was just about spot on and the blades seem to be tracking just about perfectly. Other than the little hicups with the clutch and fan loosening off, I've been very surprised by how nicely the helicopter has flown. I was really expecting the first flight to be a bit of a white knuckler. It was easy to lift off (far less hair raising than the T-Rex), and very stable in the air. I have to chase it around far less than the T-Rex. Flew it a couple of more times yesterday and it was excellent. Nitro is a bit more of a pain in the ***** than electric, but it does add a whole new dimension to flying a heli.

james199

congradulations on your K50 flight Techrtr i have 2 K-50's and i love them both i hope to get a scale body soon for one of them the other i will bang around

techrtr

Thanks James. I'm thinking about putting a scale body on the Kinetic eventually too. That's one of the reasons I went for the Kinetic (besides the price).

nzak

James199, I have a question about taking the fan off the clutch. Why is it such a pain in the ***** ? ? ?
Any tips on this? Maybe you want to drive up here to Valdosta and take mine off? Just kidding. But do you have any tips on getting it off??

Thanks,
Nick

james199

there is no easy way for that job sorry [:@] are you doing a upgrade on the fan and cluch ? if so you will notice that your motor will run a little cooler but the main thing is the cluch it holds better than stock .. are you going to perry saterday ? i am headed there friday night so i can be there when they open the doors i been saving my pennys all year for this weekend if you havent heard there is a GIANT sale at the fair grounds in perry its a once a year thing and its right off the I-75

nzak

James, I will be in Perry, lucky me for friday and saturday. I will be with SGHobbies, stop by and we can talk Kinetics. Thanks for the tip, was thinking of upgrading to the aluminum. I just hope I can get the plastic one off. Something was wrong with it when I tried to start it, making a clicking sound and binding. I was taking it apart to check that the clutch and everything was on right when I broke 2 of the fins off the fan. I always expect to have some problems in the beginning so I havent gotten super frustrated yet. Time will tell if the Kinetic and I become friends.

Nick

james199

check the start shaft where the T is that connects to the fan I'll bet ya the set screw has let loose there and it moved on you mine did and i broke the fan and it binds up bad ..check that .[:@] and let me know and i will look you up Saturday too

nzak

Thats prob what it is, the fan and clutch are beyond tight. It looked like it was wobbling when the starter turns it. I did find the set screw where the starter connects came loose, but I got that fixed. I will check the 't' and see what I can find. Too bad I already broke the fan.

Nick

techrtr

The little spindle on my starter assembly loosened off and I ended up breaking off a couple of teeth on the fan. I've got an aluminium replacement on order and have another part on my list of fasteners to check regularly for tightness. I think in future I'll always buy a kit. Probably less work to build it yourself than it is to tear apart an ARF to make sure it's been built properly.

james199

arf's are a good way to crash faster and spend more money.. dont get me wrong arf's are good but you as a builder still have to check EVERYTHING just to make sure its right i should say if there is crappy Quality control at the manufacture heli's are way different than airplanes as a airplane is simple and there are no moving parts other than the control surfaces heli's on the other hand have a box of parts moving at a high rate in close proximity . The best upgrade you can do with the K-50 is fan and clutch kit...

Ecklund1

Nick,
If your stock fan is already broken, take a Dremel or something, make score lines along the hub and break it off. If it's stuck that bad, you'll do less damage to the clutch, motor shaft, etc. than prying or forcing it off.
I was lucky enough to score the Alum. Fan before I started my motor for the first time (but, after I had already assembled most of the Heli).
I had followed the instructions to a "T" installing the stock fan. And, I know it would have stayed put, because it was a little chore getting it off. Letting the Loctite set overnight is a must.
Although a properly installed stock fan does the job, I'm glad I upgraded because the starting method is nicer and cleaner with no spring-loaded, intermediate shaft to deal with. I have had zero problems. I only regret not getting the Clutch Bell upgrade the same time as the Fan. Good luck.

techrtr,
Congrats to you! [sm=thumbup.gif] I'm very happy with my K-50 as well. It's nothing like what some of the "nay-sayers" claimed it to be.

Jeff

techrtr

I was just looking over the instructions for installing the upgrade fan. When you screw down the upper portion of the fan, you don't need to lock the crank and really reef on it with a wrench or something? Since it's reverse threaded, I guess it's constantly being tightened down by the engine. If that's the case, my prayers have been answered.

Ecklund1

That is correct. It has a left-hand thread so when you start the Engine, it tries to tighten it. Now, the Clutch however, still has to be cinched down (w/Loctite) on the Crankshaft real good. As well as the Prop Nut that holds the Impeller of the Fan engaged with the Clutch. THAT portion IS trying to be uncrewed everytime you start the engine. You know you'll need the new Starter Shaft for this Fan. The one-way bearing in the Aluminum Fan negates the need for a starter shaft with one in it. I use a little rubber protector on the end of my Start Shaft when not in use to keep it nice and smooth because it is a bearing surface.
The Fan instructions also say to remove the stock Starter Shaft and Bearing Blocks from the Frame entirely. I chose to remove the Shaft and Bearings and left the Blocks in place. It just seemed like the added rigidity to the frame was good. And, as long as your engine is mounted straight and centered in the Mount and Frame, the Starter Shaft fits down throught nicely and keeps the shaft aligned when starting.

Jeff [8D]

techrtr

I was wondering about that starter shaft thing. So a regular 6mm hex head starter shaft won't fit in the new one way bearing in the fan assembly?

syclic

No, you will need the the CN0427WD shaft.

http://www.leisuretech.ca/catalog/pa...en_falcon.html

serge1

My Feedback: (1)

Quys,

Make sure to locktite the set screw on the tail rotor gear. I almost lost my kinetic today when the tail rotor went dead.

Ouff!!

Ecklund1

Not to echo syclic but, yes the Shaft is required for use with the Aluminum Fan. Sorry I wasn't more specific in my last post. []

http://www.centuryheli.com/support/m...ml?currentid=2

I've been finding out a lot of good information on the Kinetic 50 in regards to parts and their interchangeability! [8D]

Jeff

techrtr

Glad I found out about the shaft. I'll have to order one right away otherwise I'll have the the fan installed and no way to start the heli for a couple of weeks.