mirce

I enjoyed so much in this topic, great work guys... Bravo...

Because I made Ziroli F9f also, and made some products for finishing and details on models, do you need, maybe, details like rivets, screws, panel lines, details on fuselage and wing surface...
Check it here... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

Of course I will scale everything up for size of your models...

More about my products you can find on my web site. www.nsmodelers.rs

Best regards

Mirce

jofunk

Thanks Mirce, you did a great job on your Panther. If mine turns out 1/10th as nice as yours I will be happy. For me the details for the plane will be with what I can make and do in the basement......I went downstairs this morning to see if I glued a bunch of stuff to the canopy. It popped off pretty easy. I just roughly sanded all the sharp glass off the frame to make it easy to handle. It will need to be cut down to the correct outline. The front windscreen edge was clearly visible so I hi lighted it with marker.

Instructor

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Jofunk,

If you used the canopy to make a mold, then lay up your canopy frame inside this mold, you wouldn't have to sand the outside of the frame because it would be as smooth as the inside of the mold. You could lay up another fiberglass canopy, cut out the frame from it or just lay up 6 oz cloth like you did on the outside of the canopy but inside instead. Just my 2 cents worth.......

Larry

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

Mirce,

Do you have a specific set for a Ziroli Panter? If so, can you increase it to 110% size for my Panther (a Ziroli blown up to 80" ws)?

Bob

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

Hi Larry,

We did not make a mold of the canopy, we made a plug and vacuum formed the canopy over it. We only have a positive not a negative.

John

mirce

Hello Bob, yes I have set for Ziroli Panther, and can enlarged it, without any problem...

Send me e-mail, and we will made agreement... [email protected]

Regards

Mirce

Instructor

My Feedback: (16)

I don't think you understand what I ment. You sprayed PVA on your canopy and made the fiberglass external frame. Now you have to spend a lot of time sanding down the outside of this frame. If you made a negative mold of the canopy, then you could make a fiberglass external frame from this negative mold and the outside of the external fiberglass frame would be as smooth as the inside of the negative mold, less sanding......

Larry

jofunk

Hi Larry,
I understand what you mean with the mold. I think John did also. I am not too gung ho about making another mold. I will take the sanding and finishing penalty knowing that this way the frame fits perfectly tight over the canopy...... John you forgot your color samples yesterday. I found a metallic silver at the store today so I brushed some on the blue card I sprayed for you. It dried nice except for the brush strokes. Once dry it doesn't come off on your hand like rattle can aluminum paint. I think it will spray right out of the can. I was thinking of some ideas to mask off the tips of the tip tanks. I also sanded on the stab glass a little.

Joe

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

Joe,

As soon as I was home I knew I forgot the paint samples, I guess the two beers and no dinner made me a little loopy.

Saturday I glued the filler block under the verticle fin, reglassed all of the bare wood from my agressive sanding and gave most of the parts a double check and light sanding.

Today I have to brush some resin on a few spots on the trailing edge of the wing, double check the wings and flaps and then I can start shooting the primer on everything.

I will post pictures this afternoon.

Larry,
I guess I was not exactly sure what you were talking about, but I knew Joe did not want to make a mold for the canopy. He surprised me when he said he was going to make a canopy frame. Now I need to convince him that we need an operating canopy.

Another thought is, some of our canopies were pulled over the plug and some were pulled over a canopy on the plug, making two different sized canopies. I think I have a one off canopy, if I can find a "larger" canopy that was pulled over a canopy, I might be able to use it as a negative mold like you were talking about.

Thanks for the suggestion.

John

Instructor

My Feedback: (16)

Hi John,

Now that I had a chance to think it over, Jofunk is right. If you make a mold from the canopy and then lay up a fiberglass canopy inside this mold, it will be to small for the canopy. I like that idea of the fiberglass canopy frame. Keep bringing new ideas to this theread for others, like myself, so we can finish our projects better. Looking forward to the test flights.......

Larry

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

I spent about 4 hours at my warehouse today. I was able to seal the trailing edge of the wing, prep the flaps and wings. Setup the painting area and prime most of the plane. I had 12 parts to keep track of and shoot with primer. I will let the primer cure overnight and I might start wet sanding the primer tomorrow.

I used either 4 or 5 10 ounce batches of primer, I used 4 parts primer, 1 part catalyst and 1 part MEK. I shot with about 50 pounds of pressure at my system regulator.

jofunk

Hey John the plane looks great sprayed one solid color. I gave the glassed area a sanding, a second coat of resin, a brushed coat of primer, another sanding, and a sprayed on coat of primer. I was the fuses. first time out the door with the stab glued on. It went out without smashing into anything. With the extra primer I covered the canopy frame and some Hostetler 172 parts.

mirce

I saw that in my last post give wrong e-mail address [:@]

Right address is: [email protected]

Regards

Mirce

jofunk

I don't have work till this afternoon so I squeezed some painting in. it is overcast but 58 degrees out. I shot the other side of the control surfaces and the bottom of the fuse. Hopefully I can get all the color on before the weather turns. It is a real pain in the ***** to turn over with one person even with the rear spar in for a handle. It looks like some kind of shark right now.

jofunk

Only time for one coat on the top, one more on the control surfaces, and some more peel and stick hatch material.

jofunk

One more pic.

jofunk

Happy thanksgiving everyone. It is 54 degrees and breezy in Chicagoland and probably my last chance to spray outside. So I got up early. The fuse got one more coat on the bottom and two more on the top. I was able to flip it back up still wet, paint the top, and get it back in the house still wet. I was afraid to paint it glossy in fear of exposing my poor body work. But it looks pretty good wet. Now off for some turkey.

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

I flew my 110% Ziroli Panther today after I adjusted the wing incidence to 0 degrees. I must say that it flew *much* better. I was able to take over 10 oz. of nose weight out and still remove about 80% of the nose-down trim that I had in it to fly level. After trimming it for level flight at 1/2 throttle, it still climbs a bit at full throttle, but its much more manageable than before. Also, it flys inverted much nicer - there's no feeling that you're going to run out of down elevator to keep it from diving inverted.

Finally, with the removal of that nose weight, the tendency to "tuck" in the turns is gone. That's the *major* benefit as that was quite disconcerting. Now all I have to do is re-blend the wings into the sub-wing. Its going to be easy in the front, but harder in the back, where its about 1/4" off. It will be worth it though.

I would highly recommend anyone who is building a Ziroli Panther for turbine power to set the wings and stab at 0 degrees incidence.

Bob

Instructor

My Feedback: (16)

Hi Bob,

Did you split the measurment between the front and the rear of the wing? That is what I would do if I was to ever built the Ziroli Panther again. Since it was already built, but not painted, that's the best way to do it...

Larry

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

Larry,

My wings are mounted on a wing tube (which I think is stock?). In order to test it, I just removed the wing pins, rotated the wings on the wing tube, and reinstalled the wing pins in the new location. It was really easy to do, but now, re-feathering it into the subwing is going to be somewhat of a chore... but worth it...

Thanks for the suggestion Larry!

Bob

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

After the priming session, I had to start filling the pin holes and other low spots. I used the two part Icing, I have to mix quarter-sized batces to have time to use it all. Once the Icing is cured, I sand with 150, 220 and 400 grit wet paper. It is always nice to see the smooth surface after the 400 wet sanding. I should get the hatch, stab filler block and 6 surfaces all sanded down tonight, and then I get to inspect and fill again.

I still have to fill and sand the fuselage and wings.

Sorry, no pictures, RCU must be having a problem.

John

jofunk

Keep at it John. Remember the Mayans bumped your completion date up to Dec. 21st 2012................Hey Bob, I am glad you were able to improve the flight characteristics of your Panther. My wing is not on a tube. They plug in with blades so they are staying where they are at. Did you ever post more of your construction other than your page I saw starting in 2002 and ending with the inspiration pix? I started drawing some stars and bars for the wings and fuse. One big compass and a 360 degree protractor does it. Then mark the circle every 72 degrees. 60 degrees if you are doing an Israeli version. I also enlarged the word NAVY to fit the fuse. The work bench got cleared and got a coat of paint so it is all ready to get messed up again. I also stuck on a few pieces of different types of tape to see if any lift the paint on my test piece. I think the wings are cured enough for some masking. The fuse I will give a little more time before I mask anything off on it. Still looking for a 1/4 scale jet pilot bust. Here are a few pix of George Bush in John Roth's Cougar cockpit........ Sorry no pix. RCU still having problems

jofunk

Here are some pix.

jofunk

Here's the rest

jofunk

I masked off a star and bar and the word navy on the bottom of the wing. I started there in case something went wrong. I took the star template and positioned it on the wing. Then I took a pin and pushed through in 6 places. the center of the star and the five points. I removed the template and connected the point marks with tape. The bar I just measured out. The small radius on the inside of the bar I redrew with the compass. As I went along I trimmed out the interfering tape. The word navy template I cut off exactly along the top and bottom and then put down two tape lines. I put the template between the two tape lines and marked where the top and bottom of the word touched. I then connected the marks with tape. NAVY is easy to mask off it is a bunch of straight lines. I put down a lot of over spray paper and then misted on a few coats of Rustoleum......I mean Federal standard White# 1395739579577937553239561249723582485259252529-B.