basimpsn

My Feedback: (5)

Well Dave sometime I get her down ok..but it was just too fast for my field and there was one miss approach that almost put it in some trees so i call it quits on the UF but it was rock soild during my high speed pass.

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

Thanks for the info. It didn't look undoable, & you still had the crow card to pull if need be, but you are not the first UF owner to say it was too fast for their field..lol

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

One thing I don't get is everybody is always saying that since the small jet engines are the same size as the bigger ones may as well get a big one. I have a pair of Cheetahs and they are small and light for the power (140). But what is the weight difference between a 180 powered UF and an 80 powered one? Seems to me a UF built super light with a small turbine would be the ultimate short field jet?

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

I loved mine with a P-100, but I plan to do drop tanks, & Take off/Go arounds could have used a little more authority, but it was completely doable. I did a full flight of nothing but approaches with 3.5" flaps & crow to low (1-2 foot) go arounds, & even dirty with gear deployed and at landing speed (low energy), the 100 would still get it out of there quickly. I think the big thing about the larger turbines is if you plan on flying larger stuff & possibly sharing cans, or just upgrading ships, the 100 class is a lil limited, but if you like smaller aircraft, the P-100 was a true piece of art/modern marvel. When I pulled mine out to ship it to its new owner, I had forgotten how small that little powerhouse was... VERY IMPRESSIVE!
Jay

basimpsn

My Feedback: (5)

" I think the big thing about the larger turbines is if you plan on flying larger stuff & possibly sharing cans, or just upgrading ships, the 100 class is a lil limited"

I'm alway thinking how to use one turbine into multiple application Like the same engine that was powering the U/F now powered my 50lbs wet 1/4 scale T-33, And its still too much power, even though I'm face with a new landing challenge completely opposite of the UF 21lbs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNLy2o5d60s

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

"With wheels retracted into the wheel-wells the bottom surfaceof the wheel should be flush with the wing, or maximum
1mm inside it (see photos P18 and P19). This height
can be adjusted using the milled 1.5mm plywood packers
provided, glued to the retract mounting rails with CA."

I'm a little confused with the verbiage on setting the height of the wheels in the wheel wells compared to the photos. The text seems to imply that the wheels be almost flush with the bottom of the wing which would make sense in terms of less drag as it would minimize air getting caught up in the wheel well but the pictures show the wheels set deeper in the well. I realize this shouldn't be critical either way, but just want to clarify. Thanks.

Dave Wilshere

The leg design/offset has changed a few times over the original moulding allowance. Its really not critcial. Only thing is the tyre does not touch the well (should spin with the wheel retracted) just so it does not hang the gear up with too much load/leverage.

Dave

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks Dave. Although I have clearance for the wheel to spin, I did notice that if I compress the strut by hand and then release it, it doesn't come back to it's full uncompressed state and will rub a bit as it goes into the wheel well. It's actually due to the set screw that holds knuckle in place. I'm going to order some parts from Erwin at Airtech so I figure I'll order some UL springs that you mentioned in this thread. I think you said there were three different rates? Which ones should I ask for? Thanks.

cbooth1979

My Feedback: (22)

Had the same issue with mine, springs are way too soft. I have the latest AT struts and I ended up cutting the stock springs to compensate. Does anyone know where the best place to get new springs for these that are a bit stiffer? btw my wheels sit about a 1/4" down in the well when retracted and that is with the 3mm packers

-Carl

BoomerSooner

My Feedback: (80)

I ordered a new flash set of springs and also the ultra lightning springs. The flash set is significantly stiffer than the stock set of springs I got with my gear a year and a half ago. I haven't tried them out yet but they are thicker than my old springs according to my calipers.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Can you give the measurements? I thought I got soft springs but my Rep said they all ship with the stiff springs now (Carf stock gear).

Dave Wilshere

They should be coming through with the stiffer (middle) spring size, think its 1.8mm wire. Just depends where stock is on times.
I like the 2.13mm UL size. Most of the legs are assembled dry, I wick in Teflon oil until they are free to return

Dave

havard.j

I have UL springs that I bought from Dave. Works perfectly on rough surfaces. See the take off and landing in the video.

http://youtu.be/yl2IyCt8aWA

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Mine have 1.9mm wire. The middle size.

A buddy just bought a used CF at BITW and on the third flight one of the main gear tires came off the rim after a normal landing. We could see that the wheel and the opposite wheel rim were both chewed up so obviously this has happened before. It is a Pro-Link gear. I do not know if the tire was glued on or not. What is the best way to attach these tires to the rims? Thin CA around the sides? Also he could not get the main gear up in flight, one main never came up and the other main was occasionally down, we tried all the usual shenanigans infight to no avail. Of course they work fine on the ground... We are going to put some BVM lube thru the cylinders but looking for advice here.

txshan130

My Feedback: (114)

Husafreak,
You must be friends with Tom...me too. I already suggested to him to get new wheels and tires with the split rims from DW. Once those tires come of the rims, doesn't seem to matter what you use to put them back on. They always come off again at the most inopportune times. We've tried every glue out there. Not sure why the gear aren't going up...maybe something clogging up the line? What pressure are you pumping the tank up to? Does the system hold pressure?

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I just finished installing my gear and left out the shims as the depth of the wheels in the wheel well seemed fine but after pressurizing the gear with the wing upright, as soon as I disconnected the compressor, the gear dropped out of the wells. Obviously the gear doesn't have enough clearance to lock without shimming. Perhaps part of your friends problem with the gear coming out in flight is partly due to them not locking. He obviously has other problems in the system as well but may want to check that the gear is able to lock in the up position.

Dave Wilshere

1.9mm normally fine, but on the AT legs they do need the knuckles lubing from new.

Gear spacing will depend on units, Behotec need spacing, Pro-link or others might not. With any gear, most of the hang ups I see are from something touching, leg or wheel. Makes no difference Air or electric gear, will still stop operation as there is no free movement.
The early Intairco tyres were not good, the later split type are a better wheel and tyre material. You can buy just wheel/tyres (no brake units) and update old types.

spike5150

Legs I got back in April have the 1.9mm wire and the knuckles were extremely tight. I took them apart and polished them with high grit sandpaper. but I also had CARF send me the UL springs. Haven't fitted them yet, but they should be fine. Some lube will probably still be needed.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

My legs move freely and I guess I will order some UL springs, or fly it first...

scoeroo

My Feedback: (9)

Nice video & NICE seneic back drop -

zl1wn

I am just finishing my Ultra Flash, it is fitted with a Jet cat 120, Is the bypass necessary does it add any real benefit or can be not fitted??
Thanks
Ross

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Goes fine without and a 120. And great with. So you'll be fine either way.

Xantos

zl1wn,
Im flying mine with the full bybass, never flown one without a bypass.
The bypass is very easy to fit and doesn't take much time, just two M3 bolts and velcro straps for the Top part.
Easy upgrade for better performance

spike5150

Finally getting to spend some time on my UF build. I used Hysol to glue in the rear tank supports. Do I need to use the fiberglass reinforcement as shown in the manual?

Dave Wilshere

Not if you matted down the fuselage before bonding,its belt and braces! The front mount with just the edge joint is more applicable.

Dave