Midas D.

Hi Berto,

The dutch forum is only for rocket scientists as it come's to adding pictures…….

RemoteJets

Hehe, that's true that's why I use my own webspace for the pic's. That's a lot easier.

Mmmh, sound like the quality overall is not 100%.
That's a little too bad. If I take a look at my C&C L-39 it all fits great and I didn't need to modify anything.

Mhhh, will see what to do.
Looking at the vids and reading the internet the UF flies awesome.

Will keep on following this thread.

Grt,
Berto.

Dave Wilshere

Not fair for me to moment when I have not seen things...but a Friend bought a Krill Extra 330...his comments were, paint. Terrible. Worse Fuselage flexed a lot. Worse still incidences were different...on every surface. CARF don't have two of those issues and others are subjective, and looking at my latest two models improved. Will see long term with real percentages.

tellmic

Here are pictures of the 8mm offset of the gear support.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the replies, love the vacuum cleaner idea! then flush with alcohol. I learned not to flush with water already, took a week to dry... Sounds like cloth patches are not even necessary to fix the pinholes. Easy enough.
If you are considering a UF well, just do it. There were at least 15 of them at BITW, a very good indication of how popular they are.
I have heard it is a constant battle to keep the overseas manufacturers of these planes (hows that for PC?) doing quality work, up to spec. But all those trips to China cost money. I think the cost of CARF or Krill models should cover QC or I would fault the companies, not the factories. Maybe the mass acceptance of Hobby King quality is working against those of us still spending a lot on our airplanes?

Midas D.

Well Maybe i then was unlucky with 2 planes from an bad batch?? Who can tell…….
It's not that i want to start an big thing about this but it's just my findings on both plane's…..
Maybe my expectations from such an big "top of the line" manufacturer where to high…..
First out of the box they really are the best until i start building just ran in to quite a few things that are trails of mass/high-speed production in my opinion….

But if you want me to give you fact's and get the subjective bit out of the way,
I can start making pictures of all the "things" i ran in to so far and start posting them here….
Just let me know, no problem.

Once again just my 2 cents, and what's wrong with being critical??
It's not that we are talking peanut $$ here for "toy planes"or am i missing something?

SR117

Hi Dave

dont want to start a DA versus 3W or Jetcat versus Kingtech forum here..but...

Have 2 Krills. Both Yak 55M 37% One 5+ years old now... Customer service with them has been excellent. ..
Great IMAC aircraft...they have won many comps....but being light there is a compromise of course...you need to treat them gentle.
Like a 3D universe Euro.

If you do they will last 5 years like my did.

I had the faulty spar they talked about on the Yaks in the early days... they found out where I was..sent me the fix pieces...and advised me by email immediately they found out about it. They recommended I didnt fly and sent the fix out immediately...
My orgininal Krill has 600+ flights on it now...so i cant complain. Especially when to set up it was 10K plus Aus.

Im hoping my Euro and UF will prove to be just as good....Im sure they will be as Comp Arf seem good as well.
My friends that I flew against that had Comp arf always said they were good. They had cracks, paint issues, etc. I even saw a wing delaminate and blow off.. Our local IMAC Comp arf agent here looked after them and they are happy. Even the one that delaminated...

Its one thing to have an issue. Its another if the supplier steps up and does something about it. Krill did and as far as Im aware the local guy for Comp arf does as well. Both are great.
I know the Jet Comp Arf guy here has been great as well... So Im happy so far..

I heavy landed the other day on the euro and no issues...very solid...and Im very happy.

Time will tell. Both brands have their issues and plusses.....

Hope this does not affend..

spike5150

Here are some pics of my (limited) progress. If anyone sees any issues please let me know. Also included a pic of the nice holes I drilled through the top of the fuse when drilling the mount holes for the upper bypass attachment. Drill bit caught while trying to enlarge the hole to 4mm - DOH!! Touch up paint ordered...

Midas D.

Welcome all to 2014,

Wish every one on here all the best for the upcoming Year!!

Although it's an bit of an messy start it will be full of new exciting challenges

Dave Wilshere

We have people who fly there models with installs like that! :-)

Happy New Ultra Flash year!

Midas D.

Hope mine will end up an bit more descent

UltraFlashy Year to you to Dave,

And for your support on here,

Dave Wilshere

Nice stickers ;-)
You know you need to removed the excess lip to clear the servo structure-here's one I'm doing.


Happy to help with what I still think is the best all around sports jet yet!

JPHen

My Feedback: (33)

Still looking for a wing if anyone has a spare.

Midas D.

Got an main gear issue,

I'm using the Jet-1A gear set but now the main's are 5mm higher as the beotec.
The cylinder of the gear sits on the rib pointed with the pen (see pic.)
Inserted the main block of the gear is almost flush with the wing surface and retracted the wheel sticks out of the well for a bit

I can grind/sand out 4/5mm of the rib pointed with the pen (see pic.) but this will not leave a lot of the rib as in, it wil be gone after i'm done….
Is this an Go or an absolute No-Go cause i then will damage the wing strength ??
It's a bit ****ty cause it's the "plug and play" gear set jet-1A offers for the Ultra Flash…………..

Regards,

Ed

siclick33

I think that there should be some packing pieces in the kit that lifts the retract unit a little. This might give you enough clearance without the retract/wheel sticking out (you can see it in the photos in the instructions).

On my Classic Flash I didn't notice these packing pieces so removed quite a bit of the rib where you have marked it in your photo. The wing is very strong and removing some of that rib material didn't seem to make any difference at all.

Dave Wilshere

Like Darren says there is a sheet of packers (to suit Behotec C-36 units) I'd pack the unit to be flush (you have CSK holes on the Jet 1A so screw heads are not an issue) and take a little out of the rib. Its not a key strength.
The wing was designed around the C-36 and that is all I have ever used as they are perfect. Jet 1A spring air means you need to lock the gear up to store the wing in its bags and that's an added faff

Jet 1A did a Hawk set for the CARF model, I bought one and the nose unit did not fit/work with a cockpit so I still have that in stock as a paper weight!

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

At that point there is so little rib material that I doubt it would be a big problem. There is almost no strength there so the structure is probably engineered around that point. If it was me I would cut away the rib then grind away the Hysol fillet either side of the rib and reapply it with 2mm CF rod in the new Hysol fillet for 30-40mm. That would be as strong as stock and help ensure the rib doesn't buckle at that point. Just an idea

dubd

Maidened my UF a few days ago. Based on recommendation for other people I set my CG at 245mm... I've owned a number Flash jets and prefer the plane slightly tail heavy, so I didn't think this would be an issue. Wrong! The UF was way too tail heavy! Almost to the point of not being controllable. Fortunately I was able to land the plane without any damage. Had to come in shallow without any flap. Not sure if having the saddle tanks for fuel at 245mm makes a difference. I highly discourage using this CG point if you're using the saddles. I added 8oz to the nose and I'm at at 235mm back. The planes flies much nicer now.

Midas D.

Found the packers and filled the blocks up to reach the hight no problem.
Just have to grind down the rib then

Midas D.

Hi dubb,

Why did you go so far back with the CG as the manual say's 220-225??

Dave Wilshere

Dubd...way to far back!

Non stock gear...!

Dave

dubd

Midas, a friend stated his was 245mm back and it flew great. Perhaps he measured wrong. LOL

Dave, lesson learned! Flies very nice now.

Dave Wilshere

I generally use the recommended settings as a starting point, everyone likes a different feel and then a small amount of weight or battery shifting gives you what you want. Guys who are not experienced tend to stick with the manual settings and that is always at least safe...manufacturers normally have an idea about their designs ;-) 3/4" back would be a big change.
Sounds like you would have had a ride with that one!

dubd

I should have started in the middle of the range, which is what I did for my last Flash and then adjusted after each successive flight.

It it was quite a ride! The UF would have done a loop if I were to let go of the elevator.

Midas D.

Okay, stick to the manual then ;-)

Dave,

About the Jet-1A gears. I sense an kind of skeptical opinion on these gears?
Should i bite the bullet and order the Behotec's then?? (got the gears with the kit when i bought it from a guy over here,he uses the same in his classic Flash)
Once i made the Jet-1A's to fit i can't go back………..
It's not that they are really bad are they, they are just a bit "faff" in some point but should do their job fine is suppose??

Cheers,

Ed