C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
07-10-2016, 05:15 PM
#5278
Got a couple of maiden flights on the Ultra Flash today. Local grass strip - kinda short/bumpy so was concerned with managing a maiden in that tight space. UF was very well behaved though and it was absolutely no problem with takeoff or landings. Flaps are very effective on this thing.
My brain was not thinking pictures so this is all I got from a buddy.
Cheers,
paulD
My brain was not thinking pictures so this is all I got from a buddy.
Cheers,
paulD
07-10-2016, 07:08 PM
#5279
Got a couple of maiden flights on the Ultra Flash today. Local grass strip - kinda short/bumpy so was concerned with managing a maiden in that tight space. UF was very well behaved though and it was absolutely no problem with takeoff or landings. Flaps are very effective on this thing.
My brain was not thinking pictures so this is all I got from a buddy.
Cheers,
.
paulD
My brain was not thinking pictures so this is all I got from a buddy.
Cheers,
.
paulD
Awesome looking plane mate..If I get another Flash it will be in this color scheme.
What gear are you running?
07-11-2016, 05:13 AM
#5281
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Armstrong,
BC, CANADA
Posts: 92
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Congrats on the maiden Paul. I'm glad it all went well. It's too bad that your pro video buddy wasn't there to capture it for us. And it's really too bad that the Princeton thing didn't work out. I would have been able to see it in person.
Steve
Steve
07-12-2016, 05:31 AM
#5284
My Feedback: (1)
Clean it well with rubbing alcohol. Spray light coats of Pactra smoke for rc car bodies to the inside.
This is one worked out well. I have had some in the past that I didn't clean well enough so you end up with fish eyes or dots and I would have to add too much color to hide which turned it basically black. Key is the prep.
This is one worked out well. I have had some in the past that I didn't clean well enough so you end up with fish eyes or dots and I would have to add too much color to hide which turned it basically black. Key is the prep.
07-12-2016, 01:03 PM
#5285
07-13-2016, 10:33 AM
#5286
Clean it well with rubbing alcohol. Spray light coats of Pactra smoke for rc car bodies to the inside.
This is one worked out well. I have had some in the past that I didn't clean well enough so you end up with fish eyes or dots and I would have to add too much color to hide which turned it basically black. Key is the prep.
This is one worked out well. I have had some in the past that I didn't clean well enough so you end up with fish eyes or dots and I would have to add too much color to hide which turned it basically black. Key is the prep.
Thx.
Grant
07-14-2016, 05:15 AM
#5287
What method do you guys find that works best with keeping the pull/pull cables out of the way when the nose is retracted? I was thinking the rubber band method, or running the wires through a guide tube or something. Ideas?
thanks!
Tom
thanks!
Tom
07-14-2016, 06:41 AM
#5289
My Feedback: (1)
With gear down put some clear silicone on the cables where they mount to the front Strut. When gear retracts it keeps the 90degree on the cable and takes up the slack. Works great and no extra fiddling needed.
07-14-2016, 06:50 AM
#5290
Many have used a piece of cable tie bent into a curve and shrink wrapped to either pull pull cable, when the nose wheel retracts the natural spring in the plastic force's the cables apart, this has been used for a number of years, surprised no one has suggested this method as it was the standard fix for along time.
Mike
Mike
07-14-2016, 09:17 AM
#5291
Many have used a piece of cable tie bent into a curve and shrink wrapped to either pull pull cable, when the nose wheel retracts the natural spring in the plastic force's the cables apart, this has been used for a number of years, surprised no one has suggested this method as it was the standard fix for along time.
Mike
Mike
Rob
Dreamworks gear and Jet-tech main and wing tanks. (hopefully) can keep it to somewhere around 21lbs.
07-14-2016, 08:38 PM
#5293
Wow! Super cool ideas! Thank you all with the ideas! I wasn't a huge fan of the rubber bands. Me likey the zip tie idea! Thank you again to all who replied. That's the great thing about this forum.
REEVER45
congrats on your Flash! Love that area your in, beautiful!!!!
Might be ready for maiden this weekend! MAYBE!!!!
Tom, out!!
REEVER45
congrats on your Flash! Love that area your in, beautiful!!!!
Might be ready for maiden this weekend! MAYBE!!!!
Tom, out!!
07-15-2016, 06:23 AM
#5295
07-15-2016, 03:54 PM
#5297
Hey Steve!!
CG is CW!!! I got it all squared away. I really didn't want to put the RX batts up in the nose, cut many-o-times reaching my hand in there with the Classic. I put the turbine batt all the way as far as it would go in the nose, the 2 4000Mah batts in the side pockets of the nose wheel well, and with a smidge of gas in the main tank and full UAT, she came out dandy!! Thanks for asking! I used the tie-strap method on the pull/pull wires, that to worked like a charm!!
ALMOST DONE!!!!!!!!! Maiden should be next weekend!!
07-15-2016, 07:51 PM
#5298
Here's a quick video a buddy did of the landings and take offs at a local field. One of the criteria for me selecting his jet was to replace my Elan as a short grass field capable jet. So far, it's proved to be well up to the task. Probably has mor speed envelope than I can use at this field but still give me more options as the "big" field is three hours away.
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...36752273261388
cheers,
PaulD
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...36752273261388
cheers,
PaulD
07-19-2016, 05:25 PM
#5299
Hey guys. Any good ideas/tips for trimming the canopy to the frame. I don't want to just go hacking on it Willie Nilly and mess that up. I will be spraying the inside of the transparency with the Tamiya smoke window tint as well Thank you all for your input
Last edited by 737Driver; 07-19-2016 at 06:22 PM.
07-19-2016, 11:09 PM
#5300
Thread Starter
Cut the front and back so the oversize screen covers the frame fitted to the fuselage. Pay attention to the front the canopy glass should only go under the lip 1/8" at the very tip. When you look from the side the Hoop should almost sit on the screen inside.
Draw using a felt pen the cut line. I leave 3/8-1/2" at the back. 1/8" at the front. Then draw lines 3/16 above the canopy seat line down the sides. This allows for the 1/16" frame lip, canopy thickness and 1/16" frame hoop.
Before you trail fit the glass clean the joining tape with a Dremel drum. The front I use a conical grinding stone.
Sand the lip inside cut edge to make it smooth to lessen chance of scratching the glass then edge with tape to make a non abrasive edge.
Always fit the glass with the frame fitted to the fuse, back edge taped so it does not flex forward under the glass's tension.
Dave
Draw using a felt pen the cut line. I leave 3/8-1/2" at the back. 1/8" at the front. Then draw lines 3/16 above the canopy seat line down the sides. This allows for the 1/16" frame lip, canopy thickness and 1/16" frame hoop.
Before you trail fit the glass clean the joining tape with a Dremel drum. The front I use a conical grinding stone.
Sand the lip inside cut edge to make it smooth to lessen chance of scratching the glass then edge with tape to make a non abrasive edge.
Always fit the glass with the frame fitted to the fuse, back edge taped so it does not flex forward under the glass's tension.
Dave