Joshy4u2

I am about a third of the way through the build and I have a quick question for those of you running the saddle tanks. I am planning on not ducting the turbine but I do want to run the saddle tanks. Without the ducting in place the saddles don't have anything to hold them in place. How are you guys keeping the saddle tanks from moving or am I just better doing all the work to get the ducting in? Thanks

Josh

izzy

Josh
I used 2 blobs of silicone glue to hold them in place
I am now building my 2nd flash and also doing away with the ducting and using saddles
But this time I am keeping weight down to a minimum

No smoke pump, and as few trays as possible
They fly even better when they weigh less.
Izzy

NICKELUP

My Feedback: (82)

I used zap glue with good results very strong stuff, but you can always take it out for any issues that you might have.

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

I used black rtv adhesive sealant, and even though im running the bypass,its not holding the tanks in, they aint comin out easy trust me.

garyhyde

Dave or anybody

I am in need of a turbine sensor cable for a evojet 160 vx part # 8101 Do you know anybody that may have one ? Some how I broke off the clear plastic clip that holds the cable at the engine. I cant find a evojet sales in the USA this cant be good if I need service or parts?

Thanks
Gary

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

I thought Sin city jets was the USA evo jet dealer?

Dave Wilshere

Talk to Rob Lynch he might be able to help as I know he flies EvoJet turbines

Best Regards

Dave

Joshy4u2

On Friday afternoon I officially joined the club and maidened my Ultra Flash. I know it has been said before, but it is worth repeating. What a great flying plane. After 3 flights on Friday and 5 more today, I just can't get the smile off my face. I am uploading some video to YouTube now and will share a link a little later. Thanks to everyone on here that helped me out. This thread and its contributors have been amazing. Here's to many more flights.

Josh

Dave Wilshere

Josh

Welcome to the club! Love the scheme too.

Dave W

Joshy4u2

Here is the link to the video we shot yesterday. This is my 5th flight on the plane. I am still getting things tweaked a bit but I am getting more and more confident with the plane after each and every flight. If the weather is good, my goal is to do my turbine waiver flight next weekend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSopRKhNbZ0

Josh

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Love that scheme, makes me want to sell my new yellow one and get that color instead!

General Jake

Dave, what control setting do you recommend for the Ultra Flash with a P-100 setup?
Thanks, Chris

Dave Wilshere

Same for the P-140. Its all subjective and what you like. The aeroplane copes with tame to wild movements.

Dave

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Dave and all,

It has been a while since I set up my last flash.

I am trying to set the flaps on my Ultra Flash. Flaps up is giving me a hard time to eliminate the binding. It does not bind until the last 1/16-1/8 inch. I have looked everywhere and cannot find the culprit causing the problem.

I am sure some of you have seen the problem and if so how did you solve it? I am trying to set the flaps even with the ailerons when they are lined up with the tips.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Stan

paulhat

Hi Stan,

This is a really interesting question.
I was setting up a UF yesterday and noticed that one flap was binding and the other was fine.
I believe the binding may be from the upper surface or the wing where the trailing edge and the flap meet.
If you look at this section you will see that the flap butts up hard upon flap retraction.
I think I may need to remove a small amount of flap in this area.

It does sound like your flap is binding well before it touches the wing though.
Check that the pushrod is not hitting the "foam" part of the wing that it passes through. I had to make that hole a little bigger as it was binding there on both flap movement extremes.

Will be interesting to hear what Dave says as well. I reckon settting the flap up on the UF is the hardest part of the build.

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Paul,
Your suggestions are all good ones. You are right the flap is very close to the wing when it is fully up. I did clean that area up and it appears that although close they are not touching.

I did widen the area that the pushrod passes through and they don't appear to be touching. I am almost tempted to fly with the flaps slightly down to stop the binding. I bet it won't make that much of difference in the way it fly's.

I am sure Dave will have the answer.

Stan

Dave Wilshere

There is a build up of resin usually on the curved fairing, I chamfer the lower edge of the top skin of the flap on the edge where it butts up against the wing cut line. Then with a BVM scuff board I remove any build up in the joint corner between the wing skin and that curved fairing

Dave

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Dave thank you.

I will get right on it. I did try to clean that area up but probably did not do a good enough job.

Stan

izzy

Ultra flash front door
Use a set of hinges that I had from my Carf hawk gear doors
looks neater I think

Added a sling to close when retracted so doesn't get hit while transporting

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I have now spent several days trying to track down the reason my flaps are meeting resistance the last 3/16-1/4 inch as the flaps come to the full up position level with the ailerons. I have completely removed the flap push rod and sanded any areas where there could be any friction during the flap movement.
There is nothing touching as far as I can tell.
I have put a amp meter in series with each flap to see what the draw is. In the flaps landing and take off position the amp meter reads zero all the way to the last quarter of an inch to fully up. At that point the meter reads .17, way to much. I just burned up a 330 oz digital servo after my last flight.
I am very frustrated as I cannot find anything touching causing a bind. It must have something to do with the flap hinge itself.

Am I the only one having this problem? There must be someone with the Ultra flash that has seen this before and was able to find the reason. I certainly cannot be the only one there experiencing this.

Any help would be appreciated. I can't keep replacing 100 dollar servos

Stan

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Stan...check your push rod lengths. I know this sounds crazy but I just built mine a few months ago. For some reason even though I had the servos on the same spline and I had the exact same horn length on both sides I would get one binding as well. I finally just adjusted one sides pushrod. Until it was happy. Then I adjusted the travels to match in my radio. I don't know why it was strange and I chased the problem for 3 hours. But it's fine now 20+ flights.

Dave Wilshere

Stan

Did you check to see if the ball link body is rubbing on the underside of the wing skin?

Dave

Dave Wilshere

UF is still the most popular high performance sports jet in the UK, every meeting has several examples flying. I had the pleasure of test flight one last weekend, also a couple of others were constantly in the air.

Bravo77

I had that issue with my UF , I spoke with Dave and his advice was which he gave you , The other guy that says to check to push rod lengths is also something to look at .

But here is what my problem was ( as Dave Mentioned ) There is run off glue on the flap joints , you have to carefully remove it and check the flaps operation by hand no radio until it is very smooth and closes without any pressure . Trust me I thought I had done right but upon looking at it again I saw binding and that is what the problem is . I struggled with mine for months and lots of buzzing servos . Mine works so smooth now. Nooo binding and quite servos . Take the time and do this carefully and the problem will go away .

Use a fine sand paper and a small file and work slowly checking periodically to make sure not to do too much .

That is what is the problem nothing else .I was very frustrated as well.

tucson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Dave,
Yes I got your note referring to the ball link rubbing. So I removed the ball link. Used a small flash light looking in from the aileron side with the aileron in the up position which allows you to look in with the flap fully up. The flap still springs away from full up.

Stan