C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5251
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Armstrong,
BC, CANADA
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I believe that most guys with JCs just drill a hole through the screen, without a grommet (?) - just make sure cut wire is cleared from the tube. I see no problem in putting the tube through the joiner. You'll probably need an oblong hole here to make sure the tube doesn't kink. I'd use a grommet here.
Steve.
Steve.
#5252
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Riyadh, SAUDI ARABIA
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I believe that most guys with JCs just drill a hole through the screen, without a grommet (?) - just make sure cut wire is cleared from the tube. I see no problem in putting the tube through the joiner. You'll probably need an oblong hole here to make sure the tube doesn't kink. I'd use a grommet here.
Steve.
Steve.
Azzam
#5254
Thread Starter
I just dremel two new notches right next to the existing ones with a 6mm coarse abrasive bit. Then use the 4mm hole that's there. I cover the 3mm hole with black insulation tape
#5257
Engine compartment done!!! Turned out pretty nice I must say. Man that was a tight fit for the inlet former/bypass, but she's there to stay. I put 2 holes in the inlet former for the fuel tube exit, but the angle wasn't right so I hatched the idea to use a push rod exit and glued that onto the former, holds the fuel tube nicely! Nose wheel, and equipment tray are all that's left.
[ATTACH]2170222[/IMG]
[ATTACH]2170222[/IMG]
Last edited by 737Driver; 06-28-2016 at 07:18 PM.
#5260
Good morning gents!!
Quick question, like all the other I've posted here, I'm sure it's been asked/answered before, just don't have the time to sort through all 211 pages.
How the heck to you bend that silly fiberglass into a U shape for the nosewheel? Everytime I do that, it snaps in 1/2!!!! Should/could I use something else?
Thank you!!
Tom
Quick question, like all the other I've posted here, I'm sure it's been asked/answered before, just don't have the time to sort through all 211 pages.
How the heck to you bend that silly fiberglass into a U shape for the nosewheel? Everytime I do that, it snaps in 1/2!!!! Should/could I use something else?
Thank you!!
Tom
#5261
Good morning gents!!
Quick question, like all the other I've posted here, I'm sure it's been asked/answered before, just don't have the time to sort through all 211 pages.
How the heck to you bend that silly fiberglass into a U shape for the nosewheel? Everytime I do that, it snaps in 1/2!!!! Should/could I use something else?
Thank you!!
Tom
Quick question, like all the other I've posted here, I'm sure it's been asked/answered before, just don't have the time to sort through all 211 pages.
How the heck to you bend that silly fiberglass into a U shape for the nosewheel? Everytime I do that, it snaps in 1/2!!!! Should/could I use something else?
Thank you!!
Tom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Just put it in a boiling water till it is flexible, then quickly put it on the former and work through the curves. Then Glue it.
Some say you don't need it. But I put it in my second flash.
I hope it helps.
#5262
Thank you!
#5266
#5267
OK my friends. I'm getting frustrated with my build.
I have a few dilemmas that I need help with.
1. Nose gear door standoff is causing me a problem as it rides up-and-down on the strut for the Prolink gear. When the gear is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I have the piece of wood as close to the linkage on the strut closest to the wheel as possible, but when the nosewheel is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I can't come up with an idea of how to clear the gear strut up and down. I'll take a photo to explain.
2. The center of gravity is WAY aft CG. Any ideas how fix this other than putting bigger flight batteries in the nose?
Thank you!
im getting close to finish
I have a few dilemmas that I need help with.
1. Nose gear door standoff is causing me a problem as it rides up-and-down on the strut for the Prolink gear. When the gear is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I have the piece of wood as close to the linkage on the strut closest to the wheel as possible, but when the nosewheel is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I can't come up with an idea of how to clear the gear strut up and down. I'll take a photo to explain.
2. The center of gravity is WAY aft CG. Any ideas how fix this other than putting bigger flight batteries in the nose?
Thank you!
im getting close to finish
#5268
Thread Starter
The wood block is designed for the original Behotec nose strut. Its there to push the door clear of the leg hinge knuckle. Close the door sits on the two fibre glass shuts, the block is doing nothing.
Dave
Dave
#5269
Thank you Dave!!
1. Nose door issue solved!
2. Any suggestions with the WAY aft CG? I was thinking higher capacity batteries and putting those way forward in the nose. I'm running a smart-fly regulator with dual battery for RX.
3. The bypass around the turbine is bottoming out into the rounded moulding of the wing, when wing is on plane. The Velcro strap where it overlaps itself, is pretty thick causing the strap to meet the rounded moulding of the wing and I have to crank to hard on the wing bolts to get it to seat right. I moved the straps out of the way, re-installed wing, requires a tad bit of pressure to seat wing. Short of dremeling out a tiny bit of the wing, any suggestions? I was going to cut back the Velcro and use self-adhesive Velcro on the sides of the bypass to hold that in place. I'm fishing for ideas here. I really don't want to dremel on the wing!!
Tom
1. Nose door issue solved!
2. Any suggestions with the WAY aft CG? I was thinking higher capacity batteries and putting those way forward in the nose. I'm running a smart-fly regulator with dual battery for RX.
3. The bypass around the turbine is bottoming out into the rounded moulding of the wing, when wing is on plane. The Velcro strap where it overlaps itself, is pretty thick causing the strap to meet the rounded moulding of the wing and I have to crank to hard on the wing bolts to get it to seat right. I moved the straps out of the way, re-installed wing, requires a tad bit of pressure to seat wing. Short of dremeling out a tiny bit of the wing, any suggestions? I was going to cut back the Velcro and use self-adhesive Velcro on the sides of the bypass to hold that in place. I'm fishing for ideas here. I really don't want to dremel on the wing!!
Tom
#5270
My Feedback: (39)
@737 Driver
I wouldn't worry about the bypass too much. Just fly it two or three times and with all the heat building in the plane & the slight pressure you are describing, the shape of the bypass will change slightly and it'll fit better.
Regarding the aft CG, if you cannot move things forward anymore, I'd use bigger batteries as you suggested. Use two bigger flight packs and if you shift the turbine battery forward also, you should be close.
Thomas
I wouldn't worry about the bypass too much. Just fly it two or three times and with all the heat building in the plane & the slight pressure you are describing, the shape of the bypass will change slightly and it'll fit better.
Regarding the aft CG, if you cannot move things forward anymore, I'd use bigger batteries as you suggested. Use two bigger flight packs and if you shift the turbine battery forward also, you should be close.
Thomas
Last edited by bluelevel; 07-04-2016 at 11:02 AM.
#5272
#5273
@737 Driver
I wouldn't worry about the bypass too much. Just fly it two or three times and with all the heat building in the plane & the slight pressure you are describing, the shape of the bypass will change slightly and it'll fit better.
Regarding the aft CG, if you cannot move things forward anymore, I'd use bigger batteries as you suggested. Use two bigger flight packs and if you shift the turbine battery forward also, you should be close.
Thomas
I wouldn't worry about the bypass too much. Just fly it two or three times and with all the heat building in the plane & the slight pressure you are describing, the shape of the bypass will change slightly and it'll fit better.
Regarding the aft CG, if you cannot move things forward anymore, I'd use bigger batteries as you suggested. Use two bigger flight packs and if you shift the turbine battery forward also, you should be close.
Thomas
Thanks again
tom
#5275
I'm aiming for your recommendation. I'm finishing equipment install today, with batteries up in nose I'm sure, then I'll check where it comes out at. Thank you Dave for your quick response as always!
Tom