Steve N.

I believe that most guys with JCs just drill a hole through the screen, without a grommet (?) - just make sure cut wire is cleared from the tube. I see no problem in putting the tube through the joiner. You'll probably need an oblong hole here to make sure the tube doesn't kink. I'd use a grommet here.
Steve.

phantom_najd

My Feedback: (2)

Instead of cutting the wires in the FOD, you just pry them a little with a scew driver until you make a hole for the tube in front of the festo on the engine. This will guarantee that there are no cut wires to harm the tube.

Azzam

Steve N.

That sure makes better sense. :-)

Dave Wilshere

I just dremel two new notches right next to the existing ones with a 6mm coarse abrasive bit. Then use the 4mm hole that's there. I cover the 3mm hole with black insulation tape

737Driver

Damn you guys are smart!!!!!! Thank you all!

737Driver

Error

737Driver

Engine compartment done!!! Turned out pretty nice I must say. Man that was a tight fit for the inlet former/bypass, but she's there to stay. I put 2 holes in the inlet former for the fuel tube exit, but the angle wasn't right so I hatched the idea to use a push rod exit and glued that onto the former, holds the fuel tube nicely! Nose wheel, and equipment tray are all that's left.

[ATTACH]2170222[/IMG]

why_fly_high

My Feedback: (19)

I lost my wing bolts. What size are they and if running smoke tanks, what length do I need?

Thanks!

Dave Wilshere

M4 x 50 should cover it. But put a rod through your wing, measure the tube hole depth and add 18-20mm for the fuselage steel slug

Dave

737Driver

Good morning gents!!

Quick question, like all the other I've posted here, I'm sure it's been asked/answered before, just don't have the time to sort through all 211 pages.

How the heck to you bend that silly fiberglass into a U shape for the nosewheel? Everytime I do that, it snaps in 1/2!!!! Should/could I use something else?

Thank you!!

Tom

ons_pk

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Just put it in a boiling water till it is flexible, then quickly put it on the former and work through the curves. Then Glue it.

Some say you don't need it. But I put it in my second flash.

I hope it helps.

737Driver

Damn you guys are smart!!! It's my 1st jet build, so I need a little hand holding!! What a super cool idea.

Thank you!

ons_pk

No Problem, anytime.

There is a lot of help in this thread.

Johnny9390

My Feedback: (34)

You spektrum guys which you prefer AR12120 fpr receiver or regular receiver and smartfly board. Thinking about setup to use? Any pros or cons to either of two? Dont want to go as expensive as a powerbox.

Johnny9390

My Feedback: (34)

Also debating to use saddle tanks or not? I'm not using bypass
suggestions?

rfbenn

I'm getting 7 minutes from a Jetcat P100 with just the standard and wing tank and still have just under 1/2 of the main tank left if this helps.

737Driver

OK my friends. I'm getting frustrated with my build.

I have a few dilemmas that I need help with.

1. Nose gear door standoff is causing me a problem as it rides up-and-down on the strut for the Prolink gear. When the gear is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I have the piece of wood as close to the linkage on the strut closest to the wheel as possible, but when the nosewheel is retracted the little piece of wood contacts the tapered part of the strut. I can't come up with an idea of how to clear the gear strut up and down. I'll take a photo to explain.

2. The center of gravity is WAY aft CG. Any ideas how fix this other than putting bigger flight batteries in the nose?

Thank you!

im getting close to finish

Dave Wilshere

The wood block is designed for the original Behotec nose strut. Its there to push the door clear of the leg hinge knuckle. Close the door sits on the two fibre glass shuts, the block is doing nothing.

Dave

737Driver

Thank you Dave!!

1. Nose door issue solved!

2. Any suggestions with the WAY aft CG? I was thinking higher capacity batteries and putting those way forward in the nose. I'm running a smart-fly regulator with dual battery for RX.

3. The bypass around the turbine is bottoming out into the rounded moulding of the wing, when wing is on plane. The Velcro strap where it overlaps itself, is pretty thick causing the strap to meet the rounded moulding of the wing and I have to crank to hard on the wing bolts to get it to seat right. I moved the straps out of the way, re-installed wing, requires a tad bit of pressure to seat wing. Short of dremeling out a tiny bit of the wing, any suggestions? I was going to cut back the Velcro and use self-adhesive Velcro on the sides of the bypass to hold that in place. I'm fishing for ideas here. I really don't want to dremel on the wing!!

Tom

bluelevel

My Feedback: (39)

@737 Driver

I wouldn't worry about the bypass too much. Just fly it two or three times and with all the heat building in the plane & the slight pressure you are describing, the shape of the bypass will change slightly and it'll fit better.

Regarding the aft CG, if you cannot move things forward anymore, I'd use bigger batteries as you suggested. Use two bigger flight packs and if you shift the turbine battery forward also, you should be close.

Thomas

phantom_najd

My Feedback: (2)

Just had a very successful maiden
very stable with one click up elevator and one click left.

[ATTACH]2171256[/IMG]

Azzam

737Driver

congrats on the maiden! I'm jealous for sure. I'm getting close!

tom

737Driver

Thank you for your input. I really don't want to add ballast. I'll get all my stuff installed, and figure out the weight needed and use 2 heavier flight packs as needed.

Thanks again

tom

Dave Wilshere

What balance are you aiming for? Remember the 225 is conservative.

737Driver

I'm aiming for your recommendation. I'm finishing equipment install today, with batteries up in nose I'm sure, then I'll check where it comes out at. Thank you Dave for your quick response as always!


Tom