C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5303
Hey Johnny, I've got a handful of them I bought from a RC company that sells in huge bulk amounts of various RC products both domestic and international, (not naming who, can't promote!) Any who, PM me with your address and I'll pop one in the mail. Take a look at it when you get it, if you want it great! If not, no worries either, I have a bunch of them.
I'm ALMOST finished with my bird. Got the canopy all glued up, sprayed on the inside with the Tamiya smoke, turned out pretty good. I'll post pics later today.
Tom
#5304
Ok, thought I would post some pics for ya'll. Canopy turned out pretty darn nice for my 1st time. Used the standard canopy glue, the 560 glue, on all the points were the transparency actually touches the frame. Once that dried I went from the inside and used a two-part epoxy, PC7, to seal the transparency up against the frame. Once all that dried I went back over the outside where the transparency is against the frame and used a toothpick to scrape away excess dried glue. Then I kind of buffed it out with a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol to get the smear marks off. A little Plexus plastic polish, good to go! The inside of the transparency it was sprayed with the Tamiya smoke paint, not really happy with that but it's good enough. My friend Eric did a really nice touch up job where I cut the wrong hole for the rudder servo arm out the vertical stabilizer. All that's left is nose gear door and equipment mount I'm done!!!!
Last edited by 737Driver; 07-26-2016 at 10:57 AM.
#5307
My Feedback: (34)
How many of you running your flash without a bypass? If not using a bypass does it need at least the upper bypass for turbine to sit on or can it just sit there without anything mounted on the rails? With a little aluminum heat shield or BVM heat shield painted under turbine?
#5308
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Johnny,
Since you are located in Florida it is better to run with the bypass. The advantage of using the bypass is better engine cooling and less noise aswell. Another advantage recognized by others is less drag when throttled back in a high speed pass.
I'm using 160 to 180N with bypass installed.
Michel
Since you are located in Florida it is better to run with the bypass. The advantage of using the bypass is better engine cooling and less noise aswell. Another advantage recognized by others is less drag when throttled back in a high speed pass.
I'm using 160 to 180N with bypass installed.
Michel
Last edited by tellmic; 08-09-2016 at 10:28 PM.
#5309
How many of you running your flash without a bypass? If not using a bypass does it need at least the upper bypass for turbine to sit on or can it just sit there without anything mounted on the rails? With a little aluminum heat shield or BVM heat shield painted under turbine?
#5313
Well folks, tomorrow at 0900 at Kingdon Airpark, is the maiden voyage of the Ultra Flash! I've double checked, triple check ALL systems, I believe she's ready. CG is set, gear works great, all throws on all control surfaces are set per the book on low/medium/high rates and expo set. I did program aileron differential, mixed rudder/aileron for coordinated turns, and I'm going to TRY crow, I know I know, it doesn't need it! I just got used to it with the Classic. I'll try approaches with crow, and with out crow. I'm excited/nervous/anxious, but confident. Any last minute advice would be appreciated!
#5315
My Feedback: (134)
Good luck with the maiden. I have both Classic and Ultra and use Crow on both. Just remember the Ultra will not bleed speed as fast on landing as the Classic, but it will still bite you if you get it too slow. Just enjoy the ride and fly it all the way to the ground. You will love the plane!
#5316
My Feedback: (34)
Maidened my flash yesterday and all went great. Except second flight about 3 mins in had a flame out. Landed and noticed hopper was empty and main tanks full. Mine is setup to draw from wing tank to main to hopper. Wings were empty, main full and hopper empty. Used the newer felt clunks with larger holes. Gonna try and figure out what is going on. Other than that she flew great for a hybrid Flash. Has Classic wings without tanks made to look like UF and has UF stabs. Flies great and super fast!
https://www.facebook.com/johnny.oliv...53791696310924
https://www.facebook.com/johnny.oliv...53791696310924
#5324
Maidened my flash yesterday and all went great. Except second flight about 3 mins in had a flame out. Landed and noticed hopper was empty and main tanks full. Mine is setup to draw from wing tank to main to hopper. Wings were empty, main full and hopper empty. Used the newer felt clunks with larger holes. Gonna try and figure out what is going on. Other than that she flew great for a hybrid Flash. Has Classic wings without tanks made to look like UF and has UF stabs. Flies great and super fast!
https://www.facebook.com/johnny.oliv...53791696310924
https://www.facebook.com/johnny.oliv...53791696310924
Cannot see from your photo, but what are you using for your fill valve, a lot of guys were using festo self sealing quick connects which are prone to drawing in air iwhen not connected. In any case, here is the first place I would look.
#5325
My Feedback: (28)
Hi Guys.
Getting close to pulling the trigger on a new UF. I have been reading this thread and the thought of gear problems....hanging in the well does not appeal to me. I am a firm believer that a good flight starts in the shop so its important to have proper clearances and such. With that said there seems to a lot of variation between retracts and struts being used. I don't want to re-engineer the wing to get gear to fit. Is there anything truly drop in for this plane? It seems that the Behotec C36/2 may be the way to go but I don't see these offered on the CARF website. Attached is a picture of their current offering. Those wheels look hideous! I don't know who manufactures this retract package. They look to be stamped CARF. Your comments are appreciated!
Getting close to pulling the trigger on a new UF. I have been reading this thread and the thought of gear problems....hanging in the well does not appeal to me. I am a firm believer that a good flight starts in the shop so its important to have proper clearances and such. With that said there seems to a lot of variation between retracts and struts being used. I don't want to re-engineer the wing to get gear to fit. Is there anything truly drop in for this plane? It seems that the Behotec C36/2 may be the way to go but I don't see these offered on the CARF website. Attached is a picture of their current offering. Those wheels look hideous! I don't know who manufactures this retract package. They look to be stamped CARF. Your comments are appreciated!