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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

Old 08-23-2016, 02:34 AM
  #5351  
MaJ. Woody
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Congratulation on the maiden Tom!

These are the same gear I am looking at...the Pro version. Did you buy the Data Terminal or just setup from the controller? How do the Prolinks connect to the retract units? Is there a connecting pin? If so I may want to purchase some spares in case they bend. Thanks again!
Old 08-23-2016, 02:35 AM
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Thanks Marty.
I think I am going to go with the Cheetah SE!
Old 08-23-2016, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Congratulation on the maiden Tom!

These are the same gear I am looking at...the Pro version. Did you buy the Data Terminal or just setup from the controller? How do the Prolinks connect to the retract units? Is there a connecting pin? If so I may want to purchase some spares in case they bend. Thanks again!
I just saw a picture of the prolinks and they go directly into the retract trunion like my F-18 gear did.No connecting pin. I like this design better!
Old 08-23-2016, 05:47 AM
  #5354  
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Congratulation on the maiden Tom!

These are the same gear I am looking at...the Pro version. Did you buy the Data Terminal or just setup from the controller? How do the Prolinks connect to the retract units? Is there a connecting pin? If so I may want to purchase some spares in case they bend. Thanks again!

I bought the Data Terminal. It makes setup WAY easier! I spec you could use the light on the Xicoy, but I rationalized, I'm into it for millions, what's another $70 It's nice to swing the gear and stop it anywhere you wish to check clearance issues. Hope that helps.
Old 08-23-2016, 09:56 AM
  #5355  
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If you know someone that has one of the latest Merlin turbines you can use the data terminal (small style) also , the old brown box merlin data terminals wont do it
I use the new xicoy data terminal for a lot of my programing
I suggest against the pin style retracts , use the 1/2" stub style
Old 08-23-2016, 01:37 PM
  #5356  
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Hey Tom, thanks for inviting me out to witness the maiden of your new Ultra Flash. You did a great job and your jet looks great! The JetCat data terminal will be a great addition to the already impressive install.



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Old 08-23-2016, 05:40 PM
  #5357  
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Thanks Marty.
I think I am going to go with the Cheetah SE!


Dom, As we discussed you will be very happy with the Cheetah SE
Old 08-23-2016, 07:54 PM
  #5358  
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Hey Ken! Thanks for showing up! Good to see you as well. Thank you for the kind words. Yeah that mini GSU is pretty slick, I have the perfect spot for it. Your J10 is wicked cool, that smoke is AWESOME! See you soon.
Old 08-24-2016, 05:27 AM
  #5359  
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Thanks for the replies guys!
Old 08-25-2016, 10:30 AM
  #5360  
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OK I am planning the last bits and pieces for this project.
I am thinking my setup will be:

Cheetah SE
Dreamworks Electric Gear and Brakes
JR 8411 for the flying surfaces
Jet Tech Kevlar Saddle (narrower for Bypass) tanks and Jet Tech Main Tank
Hanson UAT
PowerBox Switches

Now my question is on the Powerbox Switches:
Should I use two powerbox digi switches or one powerbox sensor switch to get the best redundancy? I have to believe that two completely separate switches has to be better. I know the Sensor Switch has two independent systems but are the truly independent in every way? What if something in that switch fails?
Old 08-25-2016, 10:32 AM
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Dave Wilshere
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Two Digi's in one box! Truly redundant....
Old 08-25-2016, 11:06 AM
  #5362  
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Thanks Dave. Just to clarify you are saying go with the Powerbox Sensor......your confident that it is truly redundant exactly as two independent Digis would be?
Thanks,
Old 08-25-2016, 11:33 AM
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Yes. The instruction manual Flash is still flying on the first Sensor switch and 2 thunderpower 2100 Prolite Li- Pos
its THE switch to use in std size sports jets. I have them in 10 models, all perfect. They are fully redundant.

My company has sold over 1000 Sensor Switches, they are the go to switch.

Dave
Old 08-25-2016, 12:45 PM
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Awesome.
Thanks Dave!
Old 08-25-2016, 12:47 PM
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Hi Guys.
For those with the Dreamworks Electric Gear Pro version, how are they holding up? The trunion and frame appear to be the same as the air operated so its a question of the screw jack and electronics. just wondering about the longevity of those parts. How many cycles do you think you have on them at this point?
Thanks!
Old 08-25-2016, 04:44 PM
  #5366  
bluelevel
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Default Usable fuel

Does anybody else also have the problem that the usable fuel is about 20% less than the total fuel capacity? I have JetTech the saddles & main tank and measured a total capacity of about 3.8 liters going in. Emptying the tanks on the ground I got only about 3 liters out when air bubbles started to appear from the main tank! I can see the fuel in the tank being about 1 inch high in the front (right where the slant begins), so it seems as if the tank sits at an angle. I cannot raise the front anymore, because the top of the tank almost touches the turtle deck. Does this problem go away in flight or should I change the rear tank support so that the main tank sits lower in the back?

A high flow felt clunk might improve the situation, but the diameter of the tank fitting is too small to accomodate a felt clunk.

Any other ideas?

Thomas
Old 08-25-2016, 04:49 PM
  #5367  
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Originally Posted by bluelevel
Does anybody else also have the problem that the usable fuel is about 20% less than the total fuel capacity? I have JetTech the saddles & main tank and measured a total capacity of about 3.8 liters going in. Emptying the tanks on the ground I got only about 3 liters out when air bubbles started to appear from the main tank! I can see the fuel in the tank being about 1 inch high in the front (right where the slant begins), so it seems as if the tank sits at an angle. I cannot raise the front anymore, because the top of the tank almost touches the turtle deck. Does this problem go away in flight or should I change the rear tank support so that the main tank sits lower in the back?

A high flow felt clunk might improve the situation, but the diameter of the tank fitting is too small to accomodate a felt clunk.

Any other ideas?

Thomas
I don't have the saddles but have the main and wing JetTech tanks. I had to raise the front of the main tank about 5mm so when the fuel gets low I don't get bubbles in the UAT. I have JetTech heavy duty clunks and they work very well..
Old 08-25-2016, 05:31 PM
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Hey Dave, one more Sensor Switch question.
I have used these for all of my models with Li Ion batteries with years of trouble free performance. I just traded for a model that has new LiFe packs. Is there a problem with using the Sensor switch with LiFe packs (other than setting it to LeFe mode)?
Thanks
Old 08-25-2016, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Hi Guys.
For those with the Dreamworks Electric Gear Pro version, how are they holding up? The trunion and frame appear to be the same as the air operated so its a question of the screw jack and electronics. just wondering about the longevity of those parts. How many cycles do you think you have on them at this point?
Thanks!
I'm the pro-link electric gear/brake user, the maiden on Sunday went well with no problems on retract/extension. During the build I cycled the gear approximately 30 to 40 times and had no issues at all. The really nice thing about the electric setup, when the gear is down and locked, IT'S DOWN AND LOCKED, The electric brakes work REALLY well. I dialed them back to about 50% of their useful capacity. At 100% brake, the tires lock, you can dial in 1-10 levels of ABS if you wish, to pulse the electricity on/off for an ABS effect. Matter fact, IF you had the Pro-Link pneumatic set up you could send them to DreamWorks and they will retrofit them with the electric setup. They are the same gear, with the pneumatic pieces removed and electric pieces installed. I'm very happy with my electric setup, fewer parts to install, don't have to carry an air compressor to the field! If you do choose the electric set up, you might want to consider buying the data terminal to make set up easier.

Last edited by 737Driver; 08-25-2016 at 10:10 PM.
Old 08-26-2016, 02:44 AM
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Thanks for the feedback! I have been reading over the manual for the control module and was getting a bit confused on the input power. My plan was to use the same battery to power the Gear as the Turbines ECU. The manual mentioned something about the steering servo drawing too much power and causing the receiver to restart if plumbed incorrectly. It also mentioned cutting some wires to avoid this. I was planning to run my steering servo right to the receiver not through the control module. How did you wire your battery and servo?
Thanks!
Old 08-26-2016, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Thanks for the feedback! I have been reading over the manual for the control module and was getting a bit confused on the input power. My plan was to use the same battery to power the Gear as the Turbines ECU. The manual mentioned something about the steering servo drawing too much power and causing the receiver to restart if plumbed incorrectly. It also mentioned cutting some wires to avoid this. I was planning to run my steering servo right to the receiver not through the control module. How did you wire your battery and servo?
Thanks!
Don't be confused young man!! I have 2 RX batteries. They are 2S, 4000Mah Lipos, sitting in the pockets either side of the nosewheel. Batt 1 plugs directly to the 12120 powersafe RX, batt 2 plugs into a Y. One side of the Y plugs into the 2nd input of the 12120, the other side of the Y plugs into the Xicoy. My ECU batt sits way up in the nose area to balance out the CG. That batt is plugged directly to the ECU. As far as wiring goes, the NWS servo is plugged into the Xicoy into STEER OUT slot, so that when the gear is up, NWS servo is OFF, it automatically shuts the servo off with gear up. Through the data terminal, you can setup centering, gain (how far left/right you want your nosewheel to move) and direction of operation. STEER IN, BRAKE IN and GEAR IN on the Xicoy slots plug into your RX via a servo wire that has 2 male ends, you get those with your Xicoy. DATA T is where you plug your VERY HANDY data terminal into for setup. I cut no wires whatsoever. I used a 4 way Ashlock connector to plug into my wing from the Xicoy. 1 wire each for L and R GEAR UP/DOWN, 1 wire each for L and R brake. At the end of my maiden day Sunday, I had 4 flights on her. I measured power used from each RX batt and the voltage from each cell to see the power draw for EVERYTHING, each battery had the same amount of power remaining, all cells were balanced. If I remember right, I had about 70% batt remaining on each battery, very little power draw on 4 flights. Hope this helps. PM me if you need help with this whole shoot'n match!!!

Last edited by 737Driver; 08-26-2016 at 08:17 AM.
Old 08-26-2016, 07:33 AM
  #5372  
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Awesome.
Thanks!
Old 08-26-2016, 08:11 AM
  #5373  
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Originally Posted by sailing1
Hey Dave, one more Sensor Switch question.
I have used these for all of my models with Li Ion batteries with years of trouble free performance. I just traded for a model that has new LiFe packs. Is there a problem with using the Sensor switch with LiFe packs (other than setting it to LeFe mode)?
Thanks

Sorry I've been on a family vacation the last week, so all replies have been under the radar as obviously I'm switched off from models :-)))

No problem at all. The Sensor switch will deal with any battery chemistry, the setting is purely to 'set' the warning lights and when they come on.
5cell NiMh, 2s Li-Fe, 2s Li-on or 2s Li-Po are regulated to the 5.9v and that's it. If you trust your batteries you could leave it set for Li-Po and the red lights would be on with your Li-Fe, as long as the batteries supply 5.9v + the switch will control the model just fine

Dave
Old 08-26-2016, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
Awesome.
Thanks!
Hey, re-read my previous post, I added more to it! I'll attach a photo soon!

Last edited by 737Driver; 08-26-2016 at 02:39 PM.
Old 08-26-2016, 09:45 AM
  #5375  
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Got it! Thanks again.

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