C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5526
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Grand Junction,
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Thanks 737 I have the same looking holes I had to fix also haha .. Thanks for your help I went out to the shop and got it all fixed up and now I'm good to go with the Bypass installed .. I put a piece of tape over the hole and take baking soda on the other side and fill it and make smooth using a razor knife and take thin CA and drip into the baking soda and it turns into a rock and work great.. Also works Awesome for fixing anything :-)
#5527
Thread Starter
Only thing with an Rxi is you must run 6mm to the FOD (latest Rxi's all have 6mm festo in the front case)
Its got to draw the fuel a long way down that line.
Its got to draw the fuel a long way down that line.
#5528
I ran 8mm as long as I could, just before I fed the fuel line through the inlet,is where I put the adapter for the 8mm to 6mm. You've got to run 8mm from your UAT/CAT, I ran that as far back as I could
#5529
Thread Starter
Another UF for my local club, P-120 (early) and JR throughout (stock JR 8411, PB Sensor switch set up)
Not sure how many UF's I have maidened, but its a lot, so radio set up and mixes were just about spot of from this first flight.
Owner Dave William's has an Xcalibur also so is moving on to a hotter ship ;-)
Not sure how many UF's I have maidened, but its a lot, so radio set up and mixes were just about spot of from this first flight.
Owner Dave William's has an Xcalibur also so is moving on to a hotter ship ;-)
#5530
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how many are setting there UF in these Spects ? I found them in this thread ..
Take off Flap 27mm ( - 1mm down elevator mix)
Landing Flap 75mm ( -5mm down elevator mix)
Crow on full FLap + 6mm
+ 1mm up trim on elevator for normal flight.
CG 232mm from LE cut line (tanks empty,ATU full,wheels down)
I found operating manual travel settings for aileron too powerfull so reduced to;
Ailerons +9mm/-10mm (up/down) 40% expo.
Rudder 45mm each way (40% expo)
Elevator +10mm/-11mm (40% expo)
If you go with these setting you cant go wrong and will have a very pleasant and easy model to fly.
Phil
I was going to do
Take off Flap 30
landing Flap 80
Crow 6 to 8 mm
Ail 15 up 16.5 down
Elv 12 up 13 down
rudder 45mm
Thanks Scott K
Take off Flap 27mm ( - 1mm down elevator mix)
Landing Flap 75mm ( -5mm down elevator mix)
Crow on full FLap + 6mm
+ 1mm up trim on elevator for normal flight.
CG 232mm from LE cut line (tanks empty,ATU full,wheels down)
I found operating manual travel settings for aileron too powerfull so reduced to;
Ailerons +9mm/-10mm (up/down) 40% expo.
Rudder 45mm each way (40% expo)
Elevator +10mm/-11mm (40% expo)
If you go with these setting you cant go wrong and will have a very pleasant and easy model to fly.
Phil
I was going to do
Take off Flap 30
landing Flap 80
Crow 6 to 8 mm
Ail 15 up 16.5 down
Elv 12 up 13 down
rudder 45mm
Thanks Scott K
Last edited by ucandoit; 01-02-2017 at 07:14 PM.
#5531
how many are setting there UF in these Spects ? I found them in this thread ..
Take off Flap 27mm ( - 1mm down elevator mix)
Landing Flap 75mm ( -5mm down elevator mix)
Crow on full FLap + 6mm
+ 1mm up trim on elevator for normal flight.
CG 232mm from LE cut line (tanks empty,ATU full,wheels down)
I found operating manual travel settings for aileron too powerfull so reduced to;
Ailerons +9mm/-10mm (up/down) 40% expo.
Rudder 45mm each way (40% expo)
Elevator +10mm/-11mm (40% expo)
If you go with these setting you cant go wrong and will have a very pleasant and easy model to fly.
Phil
I was going to do
Take off Flap 30
landing Flap 80
Crow 6 to 8 mm
Ail 15 up 16.5 down
Elv 12 up 13 down
rudder 45mm
Thanks Scott K
Take off Flap 27mm ( - 1mm down elevator mix)
Landing Flap 75mm ( -5mm down elevator mix)
Crow on full FLap + 6mm
+ 1mm up trim on elevator for normal flight.
CG 232mm from LE cut line (tanks empty,ATU full,wheels down)
I found operating manual travel settings for aileron too powerfull so reduced to;
Ailerons +9mm/-10mm (up/down) 40% expo.
Rudder 45mm each way (40% expo)
Elevator +10mm/-11mm (40% expo)
If you go with these setting you cant go wrong and will have a very pleasant and easy model to fly.
Phil
I was going to do
Take off Flap 30
landing Flap 80
Crow 6 to 8 mm
Ail 15 up 16.5 down
Elv 12 up 13 down
rudder 45mm
Thanks Scott K
I have 28mm take off flap ( although I hardly use it ) and 95mm landing flap
ailerons 12mmup / 13 down ( the manual set up is very sensitive ) expo 40
elevator 10mm/11mm expo 40
rudder 45 mm expo 30
haven't tried crow
balance is at 230mm from joint at fuse
good luck , you will love it
#5532
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Teia, SPAIN
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I have an Ultra with the McLaren scheme. It is really beautiful but I have some visibility problems. Our flying site is surrounded by mountains and when the plane has the mountains behind it is difficult to see. I'm afraid I will need to repaint it, at least the top side. Any advice will be helpful. I suppose I would need to sand the paint off so I don't add weight to the plane, but I don't know if sanding will remove the fiberglass of the surface or only the paint. Would it be better to paint over it although adding weight?
Any suggestions on paint schemes that maybe could keep the orange tips?
JoanC
Any suggestions on paint schemes that maybe could keep the orange tips?
JoanC
#5533
My Feedback: (134)
I Think all of us have had trouble seeing the Flash at one time or another. They can get really small very quickly. Before you start sanding and painting you might try adding some temporary contrasting colors to the tail and maybe wing tips to see if it helps your visibility problem. You don't have to use permanent paint, try some airplane covering that you can peel off. Anything that will let you try before you start sanding and possibly making it worse.
#5534
My Feedback: (9)
One suggestion is to put a 1" strip of chrome / alloy tape along the leading edge of the wing , elevators and rudder
You will be surprised at how well this shows up in the air , I seen this on a mates jet and was surprised at the hi-lited visibility
I would suggest try it first before re-painting & it doesn't add weight ....
You will be surprised at how well this shows up in the air , I seen this on a mates jet and was surprised at the hi-lited visibility
I would suggest try it first before re-painting & it doesn't add weight ....
#5535
If you like to change the color ,I think it will be better to maintain the paint as a base. For sure it´s going to be a lot of pinholes between the fiberglass and paint (bubbles),getting rid of them in a light weight manner is doable but a LOT of work .
I´m with sailing 1 in the covering before paint attempt but you really need to calm down when flying ,almost all planes get too dark and only the outlines is what you see . In practice you don´t have to follow the plane always with your eyes ,if you know what you have done them you know what the plane is doing. The Ultra can be flown pretty close ,start there and forget the open style flying for when you are fully confident ,it´s usually cheaper
I´m with sailing 1 in the covering before paint attempt but you really need to calm down when flying ,almost all planes get too dark and only the outlines is what you see . In practice you don´t have to follow the plane always with your eyes ,if you know what you have done them you know what the plane is doing. The Ultra can be flown pretty close ,start there and forget the open style flying for when you are fully confident ,it´s usually cheaper
#5536
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Teia, SPAIN
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Of course the Ultra is a pleassure to fly and it slows down a lot for landing, but it's mostly on the final turn that I have the mountains behind where I loose orientation. I don't want to bank it too hard to see it better because it is flying slowly. Of course I could fly it nearer but then it should be lower and I like to head my planes for landing from a distance to judge better the speed and height. Turbines are very slow in response and want to be sure the speed is correct so I am not short.
Maybe I will try the option of covering before painting to check the difference in visibility, it seems a good idea.
JoanC
Maybe I will try the option of covering before painting to check the difference in visibility, it seems a good idea.
JoanC
#5538
Hi All,
Wondering if you could help me out with installing wing dowels.
My wing was damaged in transit and replaced straight away by the Australian agent. The replacement wing requires the dowels to be glued in.
Questions are -
How far do the factory installed dowels protrude from the front of the wing ?
Has the factory applied any strengthening inside the wing (maybe some fiberglass or whatever) ?
Thanks in advance.
Paul.
Wondering if you could help me out with installing wing dowels.
My wing was damaged in transit and replaced straight away by the Australian agent. The replacement wing requires the dowels to be glued in.
Questions are -
How far do the factory installed dowels protrude from the front of the wing ?
Has the factory applied any strengthening inside the wing (maybe some fiberglass or whatever) ?
Thanks in advance.
Paul.
#5540
Awesome.. Thanks Dave!!
#5541
Thread Starter
The wing bolt holes I get some studding sharpen and leave 6-8mm sticking above wing seat. Drop the wing cleanly onto these to mark.
When you drill through I go half from outside, half inside to get a reasonable alignment. start with a 2mm drill
When you drill through I go half from outside, half inside to get a reasonable alignment. start with a 2mm drill
#5542
Hey guys I've got a UF on the way and am trying to decide how to configure my battery set-up. I've got a K140G2 which needs a 3S LiFe, Electron gear that needs a 2s LiPo, and then a 2 battery HV set-up for my CB200. Was thinking about the 3s LiFe for the turbine, along with a a BEC stepped down to power the gear, and then two 2s LiPo's for the radio. Trying to save weight and keep it simple. What are other guys doing? First turbine build BTW...thanks!
#5543
Thread Starter
Even with the small block turbine you will still need all those batteries. Balance is usually achieved with bigger batteries, so unless you put a lighter tailpipe in you won't save anything on weight.
The UF does not struggle with weight, I,be flown one loaded with gizmos, it was very heavy and still flew at our grass strip.
Just keep it simple, welcome to the UF club, I'm about to build another for myself, still nothing as good on the market even after 6 years!
The UF does not struggle with weight, I,be flown one loaded with gizmos, it was very heavy and still flew at our grass strip.
Just keep it simple, welcome to the UF club, I'm about to build another for myself, still nothing as good on the market even after 6 years!
#5544
Hey guys I've got a UF on the way and am trying to decide how to configure my battery set-up. I've got a K140G2 which needs a 3S LiFe, Electron gear that needs a 2s LiPo, and then a 2 battery HV set-up for my CB200. Was thinking about the 3s LiFe for the turbine, along with a a BEC stepped down to power the gear, and then two 2s LiPo's for the radio. Trying to save weight and keep it simple. What are other guys doing? First turbine build BTW...thanks!
David
#5545
My Feedback: (2)
I run just a pair of Jeti 5200mAh Li-Ion batteries in my Ultra-Flash without any BECs. Both batteries feed the CB200 & HV servos. In addition one battery feeds the Electron retracts & brakes and smoke pump and the other battery runs the Xicoy ECU (Merlin 140XBL).
No problems noted, and I can get at least 5 flights before the engine shows any starting issues. - even then there is over half the battery capacity left in both batteries.
Its good to know that as long as you can start the motor, you have plenty of battery power for everything else.
Paul
No problems noted, and I can get at least 5 flights before the engine shows any starting issues. - even then there is over half the battery capacity left in both batteries.
Its good to know that as long as you can start the motor, you have plenty of battery power for everything else.
Paul
Last edited by JSF-TC; 02-08-2017 at 02:17 PM. Reason: typos
#5546
Going to give this Ultra Flash thing another go. Few things to sort out with regards to whether I fit an igyro3e or just fly it as it is. Should be a fun summer.
Simon
Simon
#5547
Thanks for the input guys...I'll scrap the BEC idea and just run batts. Also, thanks to all for making this thread such a resource. I've read the entire thing and picked up a lot of tricks that will be applied to the build. Hoping to get a shipping notice any day...Cayman scheme, can't wait!!
#5548
My Feedback: (99)
Thanks for the input guys...I'll scrap the BEC idea and just run batts. Also, thanks to all for making this thread such a resource. I've read the entire thing and picked up a lot of tricks that will be applied to the build. Hoping to get a shipping notice any day...Cayman scheme, can't wait!!
#5549
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Thanks for the input guys...I'll scrap the BEC idea and just run batts. Also, thanks to all for making this thread such a resource. I've read the entire thing and picked up a lot of tricks that will be applied to the build. Hoping to get a shipping notice any day...Cayman scheme, can't wait!!
#5550
Hey Simon,
I reckon give it a go without the gyro first first.
Its such a nice plane to fly. Addictive!!
Paul.
I reckon give it a go without the gyro first first.
Its such a nice plane to fly. Addictive!!
Paul.