C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5576
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Posts: 64
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Hi Vk96,
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
#5577
My Feedback: (1)
Can you show some pictures of the EVO 40 nose install?
Hi Vk96,
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
#5578
Here is a few of mine -
#5580
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Posts: 64
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My installation looks very similar to Paulhat's installation. Paul, it looks like you did not use any blind nuts securing your nose gear...any particular reason?
I really did not want to install mine but I was told they are great when distributing the load, hence installed them.
I really did not want to install mine but I was told they are great when distributing the load, hence installed them.
#5581
#5582
My installation looks very similar to Paulhat's installation. Paul, it looks like you did not use any blind nuts securing your nose gear...any particular reason?
I really did not want to install mine but I was told they are great when distributing the load, hence installed them.
I really did not want to install mine but I was told they are great when distributing the load, hence installed them.
Never had an issue with this method and it saves all the hassles of blind nuts. Only place I have used them on this model is for the engine mounts.
I had never really considered that blind nuts may provide better load distribution. I guess they could but I I wouldn't worry about it. If anything the self tappers may tear out of the bearers easier resulting in less overall stress to the retract frame. Who knows.. Just make sure that every landing is perfect and you will be fine
Paul.
Last edited by paulhat; 02-25-2017 at 10:27 PM.
#5583
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Posts: 64
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Thanks Paul, kind of what I said when i asked the question to our local guys. due to being my first jet, in fact first fixed wing build, who was I to question. So did as I was told.
Looking forward to get this one completed, been taking me a very long time
Looking forward to get this one completed, been taking me a very long time
I have never used blind nuts to mount retracts. Just use self tapping screws. I do put a little thin CA in the tapped holes just to give the screws a little something extra to bite into.
Never had an issue with this method and it saves all the hassles of blind nuts. Only place I have used them on this model is for the engine mounts.
I had never really considered that blind nuts may provide better load distribution. I guess they could but I I wouldn't worry about it. If anything the self tappers may tear out of the bearers easier resulting in less overall stress to the retract frame. Who knows.. Just make sure that every landing is perfect and you will be fine
Paul.
Never had an issue with this method and it saves all the hassles of blind nuts. Only place I have used them on this model is for the engine mounts.
I had never really considered that blind nuts may provide better load distribution. I guess they could but I I wouldn't worry about it. If anything the self tappers may tear out of the bearers easier resulting in less overall stress to the retract frame. Who knows.. Just make sure that every landing is perfect and you will be fine
Paul.
#5584
Thread Starter
Never use the T nuts personally, CARF use such good quality plywood, I actually tap the ply for an M4 screw. I have never had one pullout, I fly on grass a lot too. My thought was the fine thread would put out, that leaves a neat 4mm clearance hole, then I could fit a T second time around! Never had the chance to test this,but I have seen models with the T nuts and it smashes the woodwork...that said if you get to that point there is almost certainly going to be other repairs! CARF gear mounts are legendary, none better in the aero modelling industry. If you had seen some of my club members 'arriving' in the ploughed field around our strip,you would know what I mean. Legs and pins bent 40 degrees and no mount damage.
The self tapping screws would work in a similar way. Grumania in Germany have a socket headed screw that is perfect for this job.
DW
The self tapping screws would work in a similar way. Grumania in Germany have a socket headed screw that is perfect for this job.
DW
#5585
Hi Vk96,
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
i also installed electrons EVO 40. There was quite a bit of cutting to do to get it to fit especially the nose gear. I even had to make the wheel well longer for it to fully retract...25mm I believe. I did not need to add any packers to any of my gears.
The wings were actually pretty easy to install, its more the nose retract that took a lot of cutting. Had to remove even the one brace completely for the direct steering.
Over all not crazy difficult, you should be fine. Im a first timer.
Turbine, cant help you there. Im actually going to get mine installed by one of our local guys at the club, Darryl Tarr. He has so much experience and rather get it right 100%.
#5588
Thread Starter
You won't have to waste time making the airframe fit, its CARF. I'd say its 45-50 hours to do an UF with gear and servos that fits like the original.
#5590
My Feedback: (9)
You will be amazed upon close inspection how flimsy the glue joints are done,
I have seen daylite thru some of the glue joints where they so-call strike the fillet
I have also had to lay in another fillet of real glue (Hysol) to cover / repair factory fillets
The white stuff the factory uses is certainly not Hysol
#5591
Great resource, but a bit too long to search.
Where are you guys measuring the control throws from, please.
Elevator/Aileron/Flap - Inboard or outboard ?
Rudder - Top or bottom edge ?
Many thanks.
Where are you guys measuring the control throws from, please.
Elevator/Aileron/Flap - Inboard or outboard ?
Rudder - Top or bottom edge ?
Many thanks.
#5592
************************************************** ***********************************************
Carf Ultra Flash settings
Control Throws -
Elevator: 15mm up and down (measured at root)
Aileron: 15 mm up and down (measured at tip)
Crow (up): 8mm
Flaps -
Take Off: 40mm (measured at root)
Landing: 40mm (measured at tip)
Rudder: 50mm (measured at base)
Elevator trims
Flight: Up 2mm
take off flaps: Down 1.5mm
landing flaps: Down 4mm
************************************************** ************************************************** *******************
#5593
Thread Starter
But you do need to double check ALL the glue joints
You will be amazed upon close inspection how flimsy the glue joints are done,
I have seen daylite thru some of the glue joints where they so-call strike the fillet
I have also had to lay in another fillet of real glue (Hysol) to cover / repair factory fillets
The white stuff the factory uses is certainly not Hysol
You will be amazed upon close inspection how flimsy the glue joints are done,
I have seen daylite thru some of the glue joints where they so-call strike the fillet
I have also had to lay in another fillet of real glue (Hysol) to cover / repair factory fillets
The white stuff the factory uses is certainly not Hysol
I've seen UF models abused to death with big turbines and I've yet to see a failure.
#5594
My Feedback: (9)
Obviously you have not had a CLOSE look at one ......regardless of how many you have sold or flown
My days of buying carf's are done (this has to do with owner & Rep after sales service also lack of support) as the European market gives far better construction and value not to mention after sales support ......my choice
You run a shop ......business = money .......I do it for fun
My days of buying carf's are done (this has to do with owner & Rep after sales service also lack of support) as the European market gives far better construction and value not to mention after sales support ......my choice
You run a shop ......business = money .......I do it for fun
#5595
Obviously you have not had a CLOSE look at one ......regardless of how many you have sold or flown
My days of buying carf's are done (this has to do with owner & Rep after sales service also lack of support) as the European market gives far better construction and value not to mention after sales support ......my choice
You run a shop ......business = money .......I do it for fun
My days of buying carf's are done (this has to do with owner & Rep after sales service also lack of support) as the European market gives far better construction and value not to mention after sales support ......my choice
You run a shop ......business = money .......I do it for fun
Paul.
#5597
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Posts: 64
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Must say as a first time owner of a CARF model in fact first Turbine build, I was impressed. There were some faults with my kit, but not a train smashes.. The only minor items I can report are as follows:
Elevator metal connectors are really a bit crappy, they did not line up, they dont sit flush, so installed a BVM flush servo mount
Paint on some areas were a bit smudged, quality id say 99% no biggie
I had a hair line fracture on the underside of the wing tip, not biggie...its 2mm long, in fact i could have caused it, no way to tell.
Its a very nice build and a major learning curve especially being a heli guy, and German heli's (Banshee, Henseleit, Mini copter) quality is outstanding.
Over all I'm very happy with my Flash, Will see how she flies.
I guess it each for their own.
Would I buy one again, Yes
Elevator metal connectors are really a bit crappy, they did not line up, they dont sit flush, so installed a BVM flush servo mount
Paint on some areas were a bit smudged, quality id say 99% no biggie
I had a hair line fracture on the underside of the wing tip, not biggie...its 2mm long, in fact i could have caused it, no way to tell.
Its a very nice build and a major learning curve especially being a heli guy, and German heli's (Banshee, Henseleit, Mini copter) quality is outstanding.
Over all I'm very happy with my Flash, Will see how she flies.
I guess it each for their own.
Would I buy one again, Yes
#5598
Thread Starter
Mmm I'll take your insult and move on leaving your personal gripe with CARF as something I have no control of, not looked at one closely... funny guy
#5599
Scoeroo - sorry you had a problem.
I'm not going to lie - I like comp arf planes. I've built a lot of them over time - a few for me and lots for other people and have had hundreds of flights on my own planes. I was just thinking back to whether I've ever seen any of their glue joints fail for any reason other than a user induced one (heavy landing etc) and I've simply not. The planes aren't built using Hysol, but the only ARF I've seen that does seem to be is the Ultra Bandit which is in a rather different budget to CARF stuff. The glue they use seems to be perfectly adequate and the Ultra Flash has a reputation based around how strong it is.
I think for the price, they are good value. Many won't agree but we expect an awful lot for not a vast amount of money nowadays. The fact that I've had hundreds of flights on various CARF planes (aerobatic and jets) which involve fitting excessive power, awful landings, turbines blowing apart, heavy G, wide speed ranges, me handling them on the ground like an idiot getting them in cars, back in to storage etc and I've yet to have a major failure.
I'm not going to lie - I like comp arf planes. I've built a lot of them over time - a few for me and lots for other people and have had hundreds of flights on my own planes. I was just thinking back to whether I've ever seen any of their glue joints fail for any reason other than a user induced one (heavy landing etc) and I've simply not. The planes aren't built using Hysol, but the only ARF I've seen that does seem to be is the Ultra Bandit which is in a rather different budget to CARF stuff. The glue they use seems to be perfectly adequate and the Ultra Flash has a reputation based around how strong it is.
I think for the price, they are good value. Many won't agree but we expect an awful lot for not a vast amount of money nowadays. The fact that I've had hundreds of flights on various CARF planes (aerobatic and jets) which involve fitting excessive power, awful landings, turbines blowing apart, heavy G, wide speed ranges, me handling them on the ground like an idiot getting them in cars, back in to storage etc and I've yet to have a major failure.