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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

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C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video

Old 03-15-2017, 07:45 AM
  #5651  
Dave Wilshere
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Sorry, badly punctuated! You want 230mm, so do you still think you need tail weight?
Normally with the CARF Pipe a little nose weight is needed.
Old 03-15-2017, 08:08 AM
  #5652  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Sorry, badly punctuated! You want 230mm, so do you still think you need tail weight?
Normally with the CARF Pipe a little nose weight is needed.
Thanks Dave, yes, to get 230mm, I will definitely need some tail weight. I guess the Tam's pipe made a big difference. Are you measuring with a full UAT as well? Mine's empty at the moment so, filling it will add even more weight in front of the CG.

I had a Classic Flash with aTam's pipe and it required some nose weight, The UF must be very different.

Thanks for the feedback.
Old 03-15-2017, 09:04 AM
  #5653  
Dave Wilshere
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I always balance as I expect to be at the end of the flight, so UAT full and 1/2" in main fuse tank.
Yes, the UF layup has been refined over years of production, but 10oz that far back is a huge change!

Dave
Old 03-16-2017, 05:51 AM
  #5654  
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I was reading the manual and it gives a projected balance with the gear up, does anyone have a balance range with the gear down? I have the xicoy balancer and it just easier to do it with gear down. Plus it only makes sense that you balance in landing config where it's most important?
Old 03-16-2017, 07:08 AM
  #5655  
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Its really not that critical, plus your balancer's errors!
If you go for 230 gear down you will be fine

Dave
Old 03-18-2017, 09:45 PM
  #5656  
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So i need some help from you experienced UF builds. I have succesfully installed the turbine and carbon covers, but i'm struggling to fit the inlet jointer for the bypass. The manual calls for trimming the back section, in the manual it looks like a half circle cut out....Not sure why they did it that way.

The manual also calls for trimming the side, however I decided to flatten out the entire section and added some hysol for extra protection.

What is the process you guys follow to install the inlet jointer? Installed the turbine and carbon cover and then the inlet jointer OR install the inlet jointer, then the bottom carbon cover, Turbine and then close off with the top cover?

As you can see in the picture, it seems as if the carbon bottom cover is not low enough restricting the connection to the inlet jointer.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:05 PM
  #5657  
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The lengths and fit are all very tight, it looks like the carbon turbine cover could go back a few mm on the bell mouth. I then clean up the fuselage inlet back edge,radius either side of that and ensure its sanded flat across the front face. The wrap of tape the factory adds will need smoothing down so that the white Y joiner can go as far forward as possible, before you drop the back round section onto the carbon turbine cover bottom half.
to get the cover on, file a lead in on the back sharp edge so it will go into the small gap between the wood former and carbon bell mouth
Old 03-18-2017, 11:41 PM
  #5658  
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Thank you Dave, I will try that. I can say that the I have sanded the wood former at the carbon bell mouth and the carbon cover does sit flush, in my picture the carbon cover is not 100% in place.

Can i ask you to clarify "I then clean up the fuselage inlet back edge,radius either side of that and ensure its sanded flat across the front face" im not sure what your referring to.

Strange that I struggle so much, the inlet jointer fits perfectly and i'm able to push it way forward over the fiber glass strip installed at the factory. It just seems as if the fuel tank support is in the way causing the a downward restriction to the back end of the inlet joiner.

Another question, in the manual the jointer shows a half circle cut out? What is this for? I dont see why I need to do that.

Apologies for any stupid questions but not actually sorry as this is my first jet build.
Old 03-19-2017, 08:43 PM
  #5659  
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So after a long battle last night to get the inlet jointer to fit I decided that I will not be running the fully bypass system. Honestly space is a problem and I feel it might complicate things for me. Yes I understand I will be loosing some Horse power BUT honestly the bit of power that I will loose I wont even miss. So I will still use the turbine top and bottom cover to assist with holding the saddle tanks in place, UNLESS i decide on a fixing method the same as what Paul did.

This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.

Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
Old 03-19-2017, 10:04 PM
  #5660  
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The UF lands really slowly...if the pilot lands it that way, has the flap set correctly. It's a slippery airframe, so energy needs to be controlled, it can fly fast or slow around the sky, this weekend in the wind all the UF models were hovering into land.
Old 03-19-2017, 10:59 PM
  #5661  
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Here is a video of me landing the UF in a slight crosswind.
I held it off until the stall which you can see happened at a pretty low speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdBFZxrzjPs






Originally Posted by wblombard
So after a long battle last night to get the inlet jointer to fit I decided that I will not be running the fully bypass system. Honestly space is a problem and I feel it might complicate things for me. Yes I understand I will be loosing some Horse power BUT honestly the bit of power that I will loose I wont even miss. So I will still use the turbine top and bottom cover to assist with holding the saddle tanks in place, UNLESS i decide on a fixing method the same as what Paul did.

This weekend actually for the first time saw a UF in the flesh flying, I was shocked how fast it is and I was trembling to see at what speeds the aircraft comes into land. It was the maiden flight, however both flights the landing was pretty intense. This model lands no where near as slow as my viper. So basically i'm going to have to take it slow.

Like I say, I'm going to have to bend over for this model, whether I bend over by my self or pull up my socks, bending over I will bend. LOL
Old 03-19-2017, 11:21 PM
  #5662  
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Hi Paul,

I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.

What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)

Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
Old 03-20-2017, 02:57 AM
  #5663  
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I guess mine is pretty light.. just the wing and fuse tank with a K100.
I do run crow but not sure if it makes much of a difference. I don't run much flap.
Yep I do run the bypass. Mine was pretty easy to fit I guess. I can see in your picture that you don't have it pushed on far enough.
I think it will be fine without it in any case.

Paul.
Old 03-21-2017, 02:50 AM
  #5664  
Dave Wilshere
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Guess some of you will have seen these already.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:31 AM
  #5665  
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Originally Posted by wblombard
Hi Paul,

I saw that video, yes that looks like a normal and easy landing model. Maybe the guy's UF from this weekend was not setup correctly OR just came in too fast.

What setup are you running and are you using crow... (I dont want to go into a debate on this crow thing, seems this is a hot topic)

Are you running the bypass? Man I cant get mine to fit. space is a major problem. Hopefully it will be ok to run without it.
You should not be having that much trouble fitting the bypass. It was a tight fit on both UF I've built but not bad enough that I considered leaving it off. Can you post a photo showing where the interference is?
Old 03-21-2017, 03:55 AM
  #5666  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Guess some of you will have seen these already.
When will that paint scheme be ready!!!!????????????? Take my $$$$$$
Old 03-21-2017, 04:14 AM
  #5667  
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Originally Posted by F1 Rocket
You should not be having that much trouble fitting the bypass. It was a tight fit on both UF I've built but not bad enough that I considered leaving it off. Can you post a photo showing where the interference is?
Hi Danny,

Will post some pics but I could not get the front section of the inlet jointer to slide on... I need some more room down the bottom towards the main fuel tank side. I was trying so hard the front section split and I had to hysol it together.

Its just a hassle. So decided to only install the turbine carbon covers, which I believe would combat should a fire happen and reduce FOD

Unless its really a problem I will try again
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:15 AM
  #5668  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Guess some of you will have seen these already.
Looks like mine!! I really like the colours! Mine is just plane yellow underneath
Old 03-21-2017, 06:48 AM
  #5669  
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Originally Posted by wblombard
Hi Danny,

Will post some pics but I could not get the front section of the inlet jointer to slide on... I need some more room down the bottom towards the main fuel tank side. I was trying so hard the front section split and I had to hysol it together.

Its just a hassle. So decided to only install the turbine carbon covers, which I believe would combat should a fire happen and reduce FOD

Unless its really a problem I will try again
It was a very tight fit on the Classic Flash that I built requiring lots of grinding but, not so much on the UF, it slipped right on. Can't speak for the UF as I haven't flown it yet but, with many flights on the Classic, I can not tell any difference between flying with the bypass and flying with out.

I've installed it on my new UF but, really see little value in it other than it may contain a hot start better than without. Even that is questionable as a hot start usually blows out through the pipe, not around the engine itself.

Without bypass saves you about 10oz too although on the UF, as I've found out, it's not necessary to save weight behind the CG.

Mike
Old 03-21-2017, 06:56 AM
  #5670  
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Will,

When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.

Paul
Old 03-21-2017, 01:00 PM
  #5671  
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oops
Old 03-21-2017, 01:02 PM
  #5672  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
Guess some of you will have seen these already.

I want one!!!! Will it come in both Ultra and Classic???
Old 03-21-2017, 10:19 PM
  #5673  
Dave Wilshere
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There are a choice of colours, Yellow is not the only option, you would have to get a custom quote on the Classic as the wing masks will be completely different, but I'm sure it can be done.

talk to DreamWorks
Old 03-21-2017, 10:35 PM
  #5674  
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Thanks Paul, I will definitely try that. I tend to agree its about finding what works, I was very patient and after an hour of trying and just starring at it I decided to part with it.

Still waiting on my package...will let you know once it arrives!


Originally Posted by JSF-TC
Will,

When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.

Paul
Old 03-22-2017, 03:19 AM
  #5675  
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Originally Posted by JSF-TC
Will,

When I install my inlet transition duct I find it easiest to put my hand inside the duct from the rear to help the front end expand slightly as a way to get it to slide over the inlet Y ducting. Agree that it is a snug fit, but simple enough when you find the right trick.

Paul
This is what I do as well. Once you have it started it goes on easy.

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