C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
09-15-2019, 01:19 PM
#6227
Thread Starter
Normally the outer pipe is 8-10mm inside the cone, it should not scorch like this. You can cut the tailcone shorter, that’s no problem. The inner steel pipe must be inside the outer alloy pipe 10mm approx to draw cool air.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
09-16-2019, 07:01 AM
#6229
That should be fine, not terribly critical.
Since you have the Evo what are your thoughts on the included gear? I’ve had a classic with pro link gear and an ultra with the recommend behotec/air tech combo.
Both were great! Hope this new JP hobby set up is too.
Since you have the Evo what are your thoughts on the included gear? I’ve had a classic with pro link gear and an ultra with the recommend behotec/air tech combo.
Both were great! Hope this new JP hobby set up is too.
09-17-2019, 12:09 PM
#6235
Couple more questions as I worked on this a bit at lunch....
1-what is the brass colored cylinder? It was in the package with the nosewheel stuff.
2-should the stud that threads in be at this position? It's just hand tight and the servo arm is not drilled, but it does not appear that it will retract without contacting the fuselage.
what is this on the EVO?
this is going to hit, do I have it correct and I will need to cut the fuse?
1-what is the brass colored cylinder? It was in the package with the nosewheel stuff.
2-should the stud that threads in be at this position? It's just hand tight and the servo arm is not drilled, but it does not appear that it will retract without contacting the fuselage.
what is this on the EVO?
this is going to hit, do I have it correct and I will need to cut the fuse?
09-17-2019, 12:21 PM
#6236
Thread Starter
Spare nose pin and sleeve.
Take the nut off the steering arm and screw the stud in fully (add a little thread lock) till the linkage is parallel, you might have to trim the opening slightly.
Take the nut off the steering arm and screw the stud in fully (add a little thread lock) till the linkage is parallel, you might have to trim the opening slightly.
09-23-2019, 05:07 AM
#6239
Thread Starter
Speak to whoever your Rep is. But the JP retracts are holding up great and are much lighter than the Electron set. My Joker is over 100 flights without a single retract issue
10-04-2019, 12:03 PM
#6243
Thread Starter
Nope. But really it’s not needed. The UF small inlets and small fuse cross section has the least impact on drag of any model I have flown
Dave
Dave
10-05-2019, 02:52 PM
#6245
Maybe put some hot glue, silicone or whatevs on the connectors.. Otherwise I would always be worrying one of those connectors was coming loose.
10-06-2019, 02:32 AM
#6246
Thread Starter
The second UF I built back in 2011 for P-80SE power reappeared at JMA Sculthorpe 2019 with latest owner Tobi Newton, now P-140Rx powered. As always there were other UF's flying.
10-06-2019, 05:03 AM
#6247
It sure is an amazing model. Every time I fly mine I enjoy it.
10-06-2019, 09:18 AM
#6248
Thread Starter
I was loving mine yesterday too, with a 2 mile runway and a big airfield I could give it some beans comfortably, it climbs faster than many models fly horizontally :-)
10-25-2019, 04:39 AM
#6249
My Feedback: (64)
I have been keeping my eyes open for an Ultra Flash for a while, but nothing has been popping up within driving distance. A couple of guys have told me I would be happier with an original Ultra Flash than an Evo. Now that the Evo has been out for a while, can anyone that has flown both comment on the pros/cons of one over the other? From what I can gather, the Evo is lighter but slower. Thanks
10-25-2019, 11:11 AM
#6250
Thread Starter
Slower....!! Balls out top speed maybe a couple of MPH. I say maybe as the UF would suffer the least from not having full ducting. I can tell you a lighter airframe is better, so the Evo is a better version of a really good airframe.