Firebird!!!
12-29-2010, 07:22 PM
#2
RE: Firebird!!!
For some reason attaching pictures can only be done one at a time on the beta option otherwise they are huge! the old way isnt working either. Anyway using 3m fine line tape worked pretty good tooutline the exhaust so I used it on the rudder pocket. The stabslot is alsoground outatthis time. Mark the corners of the pocket with the rudder servo plateand tap the corners of the pocket with a 4-40 tap. Anyone snoozing yet
12-29-2010, 07:39 PM
#3
RE: Firebird!!!
Mount the servo on the rudder plate, nice to have the plate already slotted, makes mounting the servo a snap. Use the JR servo match maker to center the servo arm works primo and saves your radio. The FB uses trim strips along the hinge line, the surface is prepped for glue at this time. The rudder is setup at this time to accept the hinges. measure the width of the rudder at each hinge point, divide in half for the approx depth of the hinge.
12-29-2010, 08:31 PM
#5
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RE: Firebird!!!
SWEETNESS!
Just dusted mine off and flew it for the first time in 3 years........a very amazing airplane, just make sure to paint it in an easy to see scheme............it get small really fast!
Paul
Just dusted mine off and flew it for the first time in 3 years........a very amazing airplane, just make sure to paint it in an easy to see scheme............it get small really fast!
Paul
12-30-2010, 03:30 AM
#6
RE: Firebird!!!
Awesome airplane and building it is a sheer pleasure. You may have seen my build thread on my Firebird, if not here it is http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93...tm.htm#9370531
There might be some helpful tips in the thread you can use, although, Tom's manual is so good it leaves little to the imagination!
There might be some helpful tips in the thread you can use, although, Tom's manual is so good it leaves little to the imagination!
12-30-2010, 05:03 PM
#7
RE: Firebird!!!
Ok! Thanks for the positive feedback so far. Continuing with the rudder install, the rudder is glued in now with 3 hinge pins after a little triming and sanding to get full throw left and right. To obtain the correct space between the rudder and the trim strips apply 3 layers of tape on each side of the rudder, install in place and glue the trim strips in place. The rudder control rod is installed and glued in place after the hinges are set. The 3 layers of tape the full length of the rudder may have been a little over kill and maybe an inch or so at the ends and middle would have worked. removing it after everything was glue in place was not so much fun.
12-30-2010, 05:31 PM
#8
RE: Firebird!!!
Stab control linkages are set up now with install of spacers inside the vert stab. Using the set pin for the stab horn sets the spacers. The spacersmust be parallel to/with the stab main pivet tube. The stab actuator pivot is permanently install later in the build by gluing the pivot pin in place to the spacers. The stab drive rod is constructed with a cf rod/SS/and aluminum/brass fittings that are connected to a hd pivot arm.
12-30-2010, 05:46 PM
#9
RE: Firebird!!!
I used the JR match maker to setup the rudder travel and to get the correct length setup for the rudder pushrod. Using an 8411 for the rudder, should be plenty of power. Use epoxy to hold the threaded rod in place to the links.
12-30-2010, 05:59 PM
#11
RE: Firebird!!!
Feeling pretty smug that I figured it out all by myself
I measured out the front and rear flange as well. Using a piece of paper to trace the edge of the canopy I cut a pattern to transfer to the front and back of the hatch opening on the fuse. for some reason cutting a 1/2 off the bottom of the paper pattern doesn't hold the compound curve of the fuse at the aft end so I used ablueflexible pattern thingyto trace the fuse then traced it on the pattern tocut off the 1/2 inchmaintaining the compound curves.
I measured out the front and rear flange as well. Using a piece of paper to trace the edge of the canopy I cut a pattern to transfer to the front and back of the hatch opening on the fuse. for some reason cutting a 1/2 off the bottom of the paper pattern doesn't hold the compound curve of the fuse at the aft end so I used ablueflexible pattern thingyto trace the fuse then traced it on the pattern tocut off the 1/2 inchmaintaining the compound curves.
12-30-2010, 06:26 PM
#12
RE: Firebird!!!
There are aluminum plates to mount the stab servo plate on at the aft end of the hatch opening. They are not hard to see but hard to measure to cut around. Sooo, I cut the FG to the approx area then used a flashlight to illuminate from the bottom the plates then traced around them. Finished the hatch and trimmed the edges.
12-31-2010, 07:59 AM
#14
RE: Firebird!!!
Ok, I forgot the stab setup. basically they are mounted on a pre installed aluminum tube and rotate on that for pitch. The two Stabs are held together at the leading edge with a SS rod that is glued to the left stab and held by a screwon the right stab. The rod is also for the mechanical connection of the stab actuator pivot. There is a teflon tube installed over the SSrod to keep it from gettinggouged and provides a nice smooth surface. The stab drive rod is permanently installed later in the build. The stabs are held in place on the vertical stab bythe SS pin/stab actuator pivot andCF/plywashers thatare glued inside the vert stab. That pin isglued to the washers later in the build.
12-31-2010, 08:45 AM
#15
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RE: Firebird!!!
Good job Mark and thanks for the build. In a world of Chinese Arfs its nice to see the work of a skilled craftsman on a world class model like the FireBird. Some of us can really appreciate what goes into building such a model. Looking forward to the rest of your build.
Dennis
Dennis
12-31-2010, 11:56 AM
#16
RE: Firebird!!!
Thanks Mike...Dennis
and all for the encouragement so far, been an easy build, Tom has made it simple I think to make a nice jet, no head scratchers yet, I dont anticipate any and if there is a question a phone call is all it takes.
mb
and all for the encouragement so far, been an easy build, Tom has made it simple I think to make a nice jet, no head scratchers yet, I dont anticipate any and if there is a question a phone call is all it takes. mb
12-31-2010, 02:17 PM
#17
RE: Firebird!!!
Hi Mark,
I did basically exactly what the manual said to do through the entire build, there was very little I changed anywhere. The only things I would mention, is when you do the flaps, when you think you have enough clearance for them to close all the way even with paint, add a little more, not talking about around the perimeter, but on the flat area between the flap and wing. Mine close all the way, but there is a little resistance and I had 3 layers of tape in between them when I glued the hinges. I would probably do 4 or 5 layers of tape when you are getting your hinge slots cut.
The other thing that I would suggest, is where the trailing link from the main gear struts attaches to the door, glue the metal L bracket onto the door along with the nut and bolt. I ended up putting a piece of carbon fiber cloth over mine after the first couple flights as one side came loose in flight, it actually pulled the nut clean off the bolt. It wouldn't have happened except the air line for the brakes got in between the gear trunion and the retract unit and the gear didn't close 100% of the way, but a little extra there won't hurt anyway.
Last thing, make sure to not make the one mistake I made on mine, I rushed ahead a bit in the instructions and installed my inlet ducts before I put the wing tanks in, I had to cut the inlets out, it was impossible to put the tanks in the wings once the ducts are in, the inlets are one of my favorite parts on the Firebird and I got a little excited and rushed into that step and it bit me.
Watching your build thread makes me want to build another one, would it be silly to have 2 Firebirds? haha
Jeremy
I did basically exactly what the manual said to do through the entire build, there was very little I changed anywhere. The only things I would mention, is when you do the flaps, when you think you have enough clearance for them to close all the way even with paint, add a little more, not talking about around the perimeter, but on the flat area between the flap and wing. Mine close all the way, but there is a little resistance and I had 3 layers of tape in between them when I glued the hinges. I would probably do 4 or 5 layers of tape when you are getting your hinge slots cut.
The other thing that I would suggest, is where the trailing link from the main gear struts attaches to the door, glue the metal L bracket onto the door along with the nut and bolt. I ended up putting a piece of carbon fiber cloth over mine after the first couple flights as one side came loose in flight, it actually pulled the nut clean off the bolt. It wouldn't have happened except the air line for the brakes got in between the gear trunion and the retract unit and the gear didn't close 100% of the way, but a little extra there won't hurt anyway.
Last thing, make sure to not make the one mistake I made on mine, I rushed ahead a bit in the instructions and installed my inlet ducts before I put the wing tanks in, I had to cut the inlets out, it was impossible to put the tanks in the wings once the ducts are in, the inlets are one of my favorite parts on the Firebird and I got a little excited and rushed into that step and it bit me.
Watching your build thread makes me want to build another one, would it be silly to have 2 Firebirds? haha
Jeremy
12-31-2010, 03:08 PM
#18
RE: Firebird!!!
Thanks for the tips Jeremy, will pay attention to the tanks first and intakes after. Working on the aux air intakes now and getting closer to fitting the tail to the fuse. Your thread will help allot there. I will try to get some good shots of the process. Looks fairly straight forward.
12-31-2010, 05:24 PM
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RE: Firebird!!!
WOW MB you and TC cutting contrails say at the http://jwm2011.com/would be awsome !!!
01-02-2011, 04:30 PM
#20
RE: Firebird!!!
A few more steps completed over the holiday weekend. Remove the openings for the flap servo wells, intakes and aux air inlets. Nothing unusal here, I used 3m fine line tape to outline the open and to give a little protection and finished up with scuff boards, grinding wheels etc. Be sure to use your PPE as there is a considerable amount of dust created. Should have done it out side butI'm a wiener when it's cold out!
01-02-2011, 05:08 PM
#24
RE: Firebird!!!
The instructions say to drill a.228" hole which is slightly smaller than a 15/64 drill 1" aft of the rear wing spare hole for the servo lead. If your comfortable making your own servo extentsion no problem, However I'm not sure I want to go that route and will make a bigger hole to pass a JR connector through.
01-02-2011, 07:35 PM
#25
RE: Firebird!!!
ORIGINAL: Mark Basel
The instructions say to drill a .228'' hole which is slightly smaller than a 15/64 drill 1'' aft of the rear wing spare hole for the servo lead. If your comfortable making your own servo extentsion no problem, However I'm not sure I want to go that route and will make a bigger hole to pass a JR connector through.
The instructions say to drill a .228'' hole which is slightly smaller than a 15/64 drill 1'' aft of the rear wing spare hole for the servo lead. If your comfortable making your own servo extentsion no problem, However I'm not sure I want to go that route and will make a bigger hole to pass a JR connector through.
Hi Mark,
I did the same thing, bigger hole for the connector, I figured, I need to be able to plug the connector in anyway and there is plenty of lead off of the servo to reach so I just made the hole in the inner panel bigger. I did however make my own leads (well, my buddy Paul came by and made the leads for me) from the rear of the fuse to the front so I could pass them through the existing holes in the rear bulkhead. I don't think making those holes in the rear bulkhead bigger would be a good idea. Even if you want to use actual JR extensions, I would use a small screwdriver just to pop the leads free from the plastic connectors, put them through the bulkhead, and then put the plastic connectors back onto the leads.
Jeremy