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  1. #851

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hey guys ...have been looking at this plane and was wondering if you know of anyone who has done an EDF conversion?
    Revver Bro - #235

  2. #852

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hello,

    It sounds very funny. In your last posting you told that you took away the gyro. What I do not understand is the very low sensibility setting of your gyro. When you use a slow servo, your gyro will never be efficient. Have a look at the helis. They use the fastest servo they can get to use on the tail rotor. You could speed up your servo by using a hole at farer from the center of the servo arm and reduce throw, but you will loose resolution.
    I fly a cheap gyro with around 25% setting and it works really fine. I never tried without gyro.

    My modified front strut works well.
    After 10 flights I start feeling very comfortable with my Sabre. What is most impressing are the tight turns.

    Flilek

  3. #853

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    I couldn't find a tail boom or any other tubes that fit the spars so decided to make my own.
    First I waxed the spar tubes and a couple of coats of PVA. I wasn't confident I could get the fiber glass to separate so I only wound on 3 layers of 3.2oz cloth.

    After curing I couldn't get the glass to separate so I slit the glass length wise with an Xacto careful to not go completely through the glass and scratch the tubes. After scoring the glass 3-4 time I was able to slip the xacto #11 under the glass and finish the cut from the inside.

    Next I sanded the outside of the glass with 80 grit and then glued the fiber glass tube back together with epoxy. Next I added 5 more layers of 3.2oz cloth to the outside.

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    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  4. #854

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hello,

    Just got my new front strut from SpringAir.
    Have a look at it. Looks really got. I can not imagine a better strut for flying from grass fileds.

    Unfortunately I leave for holidays. I will install it afterwards and test it.

    Flilek

  5. #855
    Meesh's Avatar
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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Oooh! I like that one!
    If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right.
    AMA 779352, JPO 1965
    Kingtech K-80, K-100, K-140

  6. #856

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    I am a the point of test fitting the carbon spars in the horizontal stabs. None would go in properly and examination shows a blue "gunk" in each hole in the stab partially blocking the spar hole.

    At first I thought it was a blue tube that was missaligned but closer look shows that it is just a blob of blue gunk. Consistancy is like hot glue. I took hold of one chunk with needle nose pliers but a hard pull did not dislodge it. I will try to grind it out next.

    Anyone else seen this and have a better solution.
    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  7. #857
    Meesh's Avatar
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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Sid

    Seems to me there is a tube in there.
    I don't remember if it's blue or not.

    I'll try to look and let you know.

    Bob

    If it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right.
    AMA 779352, JPO 1965
    Kingtech K-80, K-100, K-140

  8. #858

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre


    ORIGINAL: sidgates

    I am a the point of test fitting the carbon spars in the horizontal stabs. None would go in properly and examination shows a blue ''gunk'' in each hole in the stab partially blocking the spar hole.

    At first I thought it was a blue tube that was missaligned but closer look shows that it is just a blob of blue gunk. Consistancy is like hot glue. I took hold of one chunk with needle nose pliers but a hard pull did not dislodge it. I will try to grind it out next.

    Anyone else seen this and have a better solution.

    Mine have blue tubes, I wonder if yours was long, and in cutting it off they melted the end?
    Greg

  9. #859

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    The blue tubes are just for guiding the CF rod through the ribs in the stab. My tubes were not glued, so I just pulled them out and threw them in the bin...

  10. #860

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    I gave the new front trailing link strut a try. It seems I can always complain!

    The spring inside it is too weak for the weight of the jet. On take off, the strut bottoms out and the AOA goes negative makeing for long take offs.

    On my 3rd landing, the strut bottomed out and the nuckled dug into the grass when it went through a slight dip in the ground, once again bending the piano wire back. It kicked up a lot of dirt, the turbine ran for a few then I shut it down, not a lot of dirt inside the fuse so hoping the turbine didnt get too much. The landing was too fast but still. But it didnt bounce!

    I'll go to ace hardware and find a spring. With the right spring, this will solve many issues.

  11. #861

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    The blue tube (gunk) does not extend through the root plywood rib, it is only inside the stab. I managed to get ahold of the blue tube with needle nose and pull it out by twisting it. Now that it is out I can see it probably should extend through the root plywood rib because the hole in the plywood rib is larger than the 6mm carbon spar tube.

    With the damaged blue tube out I can now run the carbon spar tube all the way into the stab.

    Another problem is the main carbon stab spar tube is not parallel with the wing spar so the stab would be badly tilted (8-10 degrees) if I use the existing holes in the fuselage. While I have the fuselage jigged on my flat table I measured one end the the long stab spar tube to be slightly over 1/4" higher than the the other end. This will be fairly easy to fix by filling the hole in the fuselage and redrilling.
    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  12. #862

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Been there, done that, it flies as is! I left my holes where they were drilled and it flies with no trim.

    Man you guys in colorado sure like this jet. I think 90% were sold there!

  13. #863

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre


    ORIGINAL: sidgates

    The blue tube (gunk) does not extend through the root plywood rib, it is only inside the stab. I managed to get ahold of the blue tube with needle nose and pull it out by twisting it. Now that it is out I can see it probably should extend through the root plywood rib because the hole in the plywood rib is larger than the 6mm carbon spar tube.

    With the damaged blue tube out I can now run the carbon spar tube all the way into the stab.

    Another problem is the main carbon stab spar tube is not parallel with the wing spar so the stab would be badly tilted (8-10 degrees) if I use the existing holes in the fuselage. While I have the fuselage jigged on my flat table I measured one end the the long stab spar tube to be slightly over 1/4'' higher than the the other end. This will be fairly easy to fix by filling the hole in the fuselage and redrilling.

    I didn't have to fill the hole. I just took a dremel cutting tool to the lower edge of the hole on the right side and had cut out about 1/64" to get the stab spar parallel with the wing and then epoxy it in.

    Since I have the fuse in an accurate jig on my table I notice the left wing leading edge is about 1/64" low where it mates with the fuselage. I think more than one have reported needing a little right aileron on the first flight. This may account for the trim needed.
    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  14. #864

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hello all,

    I am flying mostly from grass. Therefore I have other problems than people flying from tarmac.

    Here my newest problem and how I solved it.

    The rear former holding the wood rails of the front gear broke while taxiing. (See annexed photo)

    The wood rail came lose. I imagine the rails pushing upwards create a moment of torque that breaks the former on its weakest place.

    The solution is a connection between both rails. In that case, the torque is accepted by the bridge and not by the former sides.

    I cut out a piece of plywood and glued it in place. (see photo) What you see on the wood is residues of cotton fibre mixed to resin for strength.

    Feel free to give it a try

    Flilek
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  15. #865

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Cool man, I also fly from grass and my are connected, by a mounting board I made for all the stuff liek UAT and fueld pump etc,

    Yes that former is weak though, but the weakest point is the main gear.

    I just trippled up my wing formers around the spar and gear, and also glassed my wings. Just from transporting the wings I would get crackes in the sheeting, mine was brittle for some reason. Problem solved.

  16. #866

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Need a set of retracts, struts, wheels, brakes! Anyone have an "extra" set they would part with??

  17. #867

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    With the new former, I had some hard landings in strong crosswind and no wood has been damaged.
    It seems that my wood in the wings is stronger than yours

    Flilek

  18. #868

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Just an update, I have about 100 flights on my f-86D. I fly it 3-10 times per week. I only fly it 5 mins then land, but I have learned to fly it scale "grandma style" and I can go for about 8 mins.

    I am looking to replace it soon but its hard given how well it flies off grass. Great jet, loving it.

  19. #869

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hi,

    I have now around 50 flights on my Sabre.
    I love it for its simple handling and the tight flying you can do.
    When I tried to find the limits on tight turns, I was surprised by a stall. Next flight, I reduced slightly the throw on the elevator and its perfect now.
    I never used flaps for starting.
    I'm flying normally 5 minutes and half the fuel is still left.
    I will only put a short aluminium tube in the front strut to have a little bit more preload on the spring to get it stiffer when flying from grass.

    Have a look at a video, a friend took on our last invitational flying.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GuJWk9GM3c

    Best regards

    Flilek

  20. #870
    Bob_B's Avatar
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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Flilek very nice flying!
    EDF Jet Jam 2015 - http://www.orvrcf.com/
    Cincinnati Jet Club, Team Futaba

  21. #871

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Flilek,
    Very nice flight and good video. What engine are you running in the F-86D?

    Sid
    SidGates
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  22. #872

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hello,

    I fly a Wren Supersport with Kerostart.

    Dry weight is 7.8kg vs 18 lbs of trust. It's largely enough to fly. I just want the trust for starting on grass fields.


    Flilek

  23. #873

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Well guys I sold my f-86D off cheap. Its been a good airframe and I am probably a fool for selling it. But I decided I want something fast as an every day grass flyer. So I am getting the Jet Legend viper jet and the new K100 turbine.

    The dog got me into turbines and she's been great. Landings are perfect everytime. I'm just tired of an 8S habu 32 passing me

    This was never meant for speed and for anyone thinking of getting one you cant go wrong with this airframe. It is great for grass ops too. Got about 100 flights in 4 months. Was out flying it at least twice a week in the summer with about 3-5 flights per trip. All my EDF are collecting dust.

  24. #874

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    What iron-on covering have you guys found that best matches the color on the wings? I need to do a bit of surgery on some soft balsa and don't want the patches to stand out, if possible...

  25. #875

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    RE: The New F86D Dog Sabre

    Hey Guys, I just started working on a Modelbau F86 Dog Saber and am ready to mount the wings. I decided to check the incidence angle from the tail to the wings, and was very pleased to find it was within the specs outlined in the manual, however, I was dismayed to find the wings have 2 degrees washIN from root to tip. I've been building and flying R/C aircraft for over 40 years and washOUT is the standard to use. In cutting numerous foam wings over the years (straight, tapered, and ellictptical for sport, and WW2 prop warbirds) I usually use about 2 degrees washout from root to tip. The video on the F86 shows it to fly pretty decently, but the 2 degrees washIN is a new one on me. Did any of the rest of your kits come this way, and does it fly OK? Am I missing something with a swept wing and the washIN?

    Any experiences you guys would share with me on the flying characteristics with washIN would be most appreciated

    Thanks in advance, Les
    Les Morrow


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