BaldEagel

Dennis

I used to do this also, but found that on small jets the fail rate of small servo's was far more than the larger items, by soldering them onto the extension leads it made if far harder to change them out, I still make the extension leads needed to get from the servo lead end to the Rx, but take the plastic outer plugs off and heat shrink the pins together and then again over the top of all three wires, just another idea.

Mike

bigplumbs

Never thought of that that is indeed a good idea

Dennis

BaldEagel

Glad to have helped.

Will soon get back onto my L39 build, been rushing back and forth to France looking at house's so its been delayed a bit.

Mike

bigplumbs

Well I have managed to not use the easy connector on the Aileron. It is not pretty as all the bits supplied are quite large and a bit ugly (like me in fact) but they do seem strong and up to the job so I will use them. Here is the finished aileron.

Going to light the BBQ now.................. When will this blinking wind drop in the UK so that we can have some decent flying [&o]

Dennis

bigplumbs

I thought I would try BauldEagles mothod of joining the servo wires which was to remove the plastic blocks and insert the pins and heatshrink over the connector. Seems to work well and is quick you just end up with a stiffer longer connection.

I also have to say that I am impressed with the HS65 servos I am using good power and nice centering. I think these would be a good servo to use on the Habu 32

Dennis

bigplumbs

Flaps

Just a note to say that on this model it is quite easy and indeed I think it is designed this way to have your flap servo's in the same orientation in order to be able to use a Y lead. This boult allow the plane to be flown on 8 channels if you also Y lead the ailerons

Dennis

bigplumbs

Well now that the servos are in the wing and it is blowing a mega gale here in Suffolk I thought I would pick up on the nose wheel. But of course to get the incidence right on the ground I need to fit the wings.

The wings have a short fiberglass spar that glues into the wing and then locates in a preinstalled pocket in the plane. It is held in place by 2 carbon anti rotation pins that need to be glued into the wing. It would be one idea to glue the wing on but while I would not intend to disasemble this model for transport it would be nice to be able to take it apart.

I therefore intend to hold it tight to the fus by a bolt at the wheel well and a screw at the front. It would also be quite possible to put a small bolt through the flat spar in the fus if one was in possession of a 90 degree drill chuck.

To position the antirotation pins I first sanded the spar to fit the fus and wing nicely then glued in the anti rotation pins to the wing root, put the wing on and put threadlock on the end of the anti rotation pins to mark the fus. The hole was then drilled and I am quite pleased with the result and indeed the fit of the wing to the fus.

Dennis

bigplumbs

Not much at all done tonight but then again even if you do a tiny bit each day you are moving foeward. I had noticed that the large tail could be squezed in very easily near the servo hatches so I laminated some balsa untill I had the correct size block and glued it with epoxy inside the tail. I was quite amazed at how much this simple addition made to the rigidness of the sides of the tail

Dennis

bigplumbs

Had a little fly today but now it is raining and we certainly need that..............So I am back on the Mig

Here is the method I use for setting the length of the nose wheel leg. I assemble the plane and stand it on the mains with the nose leg wire over the edge of the table. I then set what I think is the correct angle of atack by eye having looked at some Migs on the ground on the internet and then stick this leg to the edge of the table with masking tape. I then allow for the radius of the nose wheel and then mark and bend the wire.

I have to say this makes for a very short nose leg on the mig

Othher 2 pics are just to give you an idea of scale/size

Dennis

bigplumbs

Well that was the easiest nose wheel steering I have ever done. Because the nose wheel retracts back you can use pull pull which I mus say I always prefere. Just drill a small hole in the bulkhead for the wires to go through where it lines up nicely and it is very easy......................... Wish I could say the same in my search for a tank

Dennis

bigplumbs

The elevator comes supplied with only 2 hinges. I thought I would ass another one in the middle for a little extra strength. I tend to glues these type of hinges in with 5 min epoxy as it gives you time to move it about. You also have to glue in an anti rotation pin into the leading edge of the elevator

Dennis

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Sealing the surfaces with clear Ultracoat also acts as additional hinge area and has several aerodynamic benefits as well.

Fascinating build process. Thanks for sharing!

bigplumbs

In te kit there are 3 small robart pin type hinges but I decided to use some little flat pinned hinges I had. The vertical fin is fiberglassed all round so you will have to cut slots or drill holes (I used a disc in a dremmel) to accomodate the hinges. You will also need to keep the rudder high as if not it will snag on the fus when you operate it. I glued my hinges in with 5 min epoxy and remember to apply valoline to the hinges so that they dont get glued

Dennis

bigplumbs

Here is the rudder in. Nice short linkags and wery sturdy no slop at all. And once again I am impressed with these little HS65 HB Servo's

Linkage is like all of them a bit in your face but it works very well and that is the main thing

Dennis

bigplumbs

The Horizontal stab is fixed by a carbon rod and anti rotation pins. I decided that I would glue this in place with my old friend 5 min epoxy. You first need to align the two stab halfs and mark and drill the hole for the anti rotation carbon pin having first of course glued one into each horizontal stab.

I then decided to drill lots of small holes in the fiberglass fuz where the stab will glue in order to make shre it gets a good hold. I also scratched up the surface as well.

I think that the 2 stab half I have are doth the same and therefore the fit on one side was a little better than the other. Looking at the alignment however it looks fine and the gap filled ok with the epoxy.

When glueing this sort of thing I mask up the fus as you can see in the pics and also have my wife on hand to wipe off the excess epoxy with kitchen roll and nail varnish remover.

Once thia is dry I will probably glue some balsa inside the tail to stifFen it up more

Dennis

bigplumbs

So anyone else thinking of getting this mig 15. I actually think it would go very nicely on edf. Would be a bit of a squeeze for the batteries however as the buct I removed was rather big

Dennis

bigplumbs

Putting the elevators on is just a simple matter of making sure the slots in the horizontal stab are cut long enough and dry fitting to make sure all is ok and then sticking the hinges in. I just smear some 5 min epoxy on the tips of the flat hinges and slide them on the epoxy drags into the slots. I then wid away any spare epoxy with Kitchen roll and a cocktail stick

Might leave fitting the elevator servos till the morning as the weather still looks like poo

Dennis

Henke Torphammar

Great thread, perfect inspiration for others looking for EDF convertions!

bigplumbs

Tidied up the wheel well and glued the servo wires to the sheeting. I will paint this later with some silver paint if I can find some

Should have waited for the epoxy to dry before chipping away at the foam though

Dennis

bigplumbs

Now having a go with the elevator servos, One needs to be glued to the plate and the other needs to be pushed up inside the fin and I think glued in position. Will be a bit of a tricky and I am sure messy job. Here is the one glued to the plate, as you can see I wrap masking tape around the servo to help the glue bonb and make it easier to remove if I have to

Dennis

bigplumbs

In order to make the elevator set up work the way I am doing it you will have to dremmel away a little bit of the fus in order to make sure the tops of each servo do not touch. I have also made a little sandwich out of the servo to go in the fus out of two thin pieces of balsa so the it will glue in ok. Reminds me of the old fashioned wafers you used to get with ice cream............... Alf Garnet wanted one of those once and the ice cream seller told him he hadn't got any cos there was no call for them......... Alf imediatly responded that he was calling for them.

Dennis

Jgwright

Dennis

Using a couple of turns of masking tape and then gluing the tape in place with epoxy is a useful tip I have just been given and will use it myself. Looks like you will be finished next week. My glider will also be finished then, perhaps we should maiden them at the same time.

John

bigplumbs

Sounds like an idea John but I am still wresseling with the fuel tanks. I have a couple of options but neither are quite what I would like. Also we would need some nice weather and less wind. Weather does however look better looking forward

The masking tape thing was somthing I learnt off of these forums so I cant take any credit for that one

Dennis

Jgwright

Dennis

You should do what I did for the glider and visit your local model shop. Dave has quite a few tanks of various sizes and shapes.

John

bigplumbs

John

I did well Galaxy sifted through loads and spent £20 and still not right so I carved a piece of blue foam and was going to try and make a custom one but old JR (you know the chap with the stand off scale electric mossie and others) said it would be too hard so now I am all in a dilemma.

Dennis