Fly Eagle Jet F16 scale 1/7
09-30-2011, 08:42 PM
#28
RE: Fly Eagle Jet F16 scale 1/7
ORIGINAL: Vincent
I think the new JC P-100 would be an excellent choice. I already have a P-120sx sitting on shelf so that will be my choice. The jet will be over powered but i can always use the extra power out here in Az on one of those very hot summer days...
Vin...
I think the new JC P-100 would be an excellent choice. I already have a P-120sx sitting on shelf so that will be my choice. The jet will be over powered but i can always use the extra power out here in Az on one of those very hot summer days...
Vin...
BTW, is the gear scale?
10-01-2011, 03:04 AM
#29
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RE: Fly Eagle Jet F16 scale 1/7
i think i go look for a p100 but i,m not sure abouth it, maybe want to try a p120 but i got doubt about the wait and fuel using.
ok vincent your scale is 1/7 too and you build in a p120 am i right.
ok vincent your scale is 1/7 too and you build in a p120 am i right.
10-01-2011, 05:18 AM
#30
RE: Fly Eagle Jet F16 scale 1/7
ORIGINAL: FalconWings
I think a P-120SX will rock it. An airframe like this will benefit of a big can/high thrust/medium speed engine vs a small can/ high speed.
BTW, is the gear scale?
ORIGINAL: Vincent
I think the new JC P-100 would be an excellent choice. I already have a P-120sx sitting on shelf so that will be my choice. The jet will be over powered but i can always use the extra power out here in Az on one of those very hot summer days...
Vin...
I think the new JC P-100 would be an excellent choice. I already have a P-120sx sitting on shelf so that will be my choice. The jet will be over powered but i can always use the extra power out here in Az on one of those very hot summer days...
Vin...
BTW, is the gear scale?
My dry weight is 29lbs but it finished out somewhat nose heavy.Wayne Layne did the assembly in one week and he modded the fej basic cockpit and we went with a full length pilot.I could have relocated the A123 batts from the nose to the middle of the jet but we decided to just add some weight to the tail. If you assemble the jet keeping this in mind and go with a 100 i believe you can get the weight down to around 26lbs dry. Either way i would still go with the P120 because of our summer heat. The 100 should fly it well too but i had the 120sx sitting on the shelf so i went with it. There is plenty of gas (128oz) for any motor you choose.
Vin...
10-21-2012, 11:16 AM
#31
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RE: Fly Eagle Jet F16 scale 1/7
Seems there is very little mention of this model on forums that I can find...
And this thread has not been updated for a long time, is it worth while or is there a better alternative for a JC 140 RX ?
C
And this thread has not been updated for a long time, is it worth while or is there a better alternative for a JC 140 RX ?
C
04-16-2015, 01:40 PM
#35
04-17-2015, 04:29 AM
#39
My Feedback: (34)
While yes I agree with you it looks as they may have learned something from this site,
My shafts came attached to ply with a outer support of honeycomb then topped with 1mm carbonfiber
I did cut into the elevators on both sides of the pivot point. The filled holes in the honeycomb to lit the bolts pass through without contact so I could see the ply
There was also triangle peace of balsa attaching the shaft support to the root peace of ply that the main shaft goes through.
I still added some basswood to add support, aropoxy the spaces around the bolt holes and honeymoon, and added hard wood peace with holes drilled in to support the Bolts over a wider area
My shafts came attached to ply with a outer support of honeycomb then topped with 1mm carbonfiber
I did cut into the elevators on both sides of the pivot point. The filled holes in the honeycomb to lit the bolts pass through without contact so I could see the ply
There was also triangle peace of balsa attaching the shaft support to the root peace of ply that the main shaft goes through.
I still added some basswood to add support, aropoxy the spaces around the bolt holes and honeymoon, and added hard wood peace with holes drilled in to support the Bolts over a wider area
04-17-2015, 10:11 AM
#41
My Feedback: (34)
So I dont know if this one was done better than the rest as it was given by FEJ for a Raffle at so Jet show.
But I have to say it has been very odd to find not single air leak in the door rams, or retracts. The Retract all work with no mods, granted mine dose not have the sweet scale gear like the SM.
I still went throw everything and loctited the bolts, I couldn't belive the breaks worked and worked wheel, as I was given a set of FEJ rear wheels for the byron F16 I was working on and they were completly useless in jet as the breaks would just leak no mater how much lub, or work you did to them.
I have been debateing about cutting holes in the bottoms of the wings like I did for the elevators, but from what I can see from the servo hach, etc it all looks good, I did read on the Non Honeycomb jets some had isses with the carbon spar pulling out of the wing like a popsicle stick as they were just glued in basa, but this has ply and honeycombe epoxy to the carbon spar, It looks really good, and the servo bay was a little over built for my likeing.
So my other issue was the rudder, I did not like the FEJ methoud, even thow it would of been nice, they tried to make the rudder easy to pull off with just 2 easy to reach from the out side alen head bolts in the rudder base. They wanted you to mount a standard servo in the base with a 11/2in allumnum finger bolted to your servo arm to reach up inside the rudder it self. I tried and tried and I could not get this set up to work to my likeing. So out came the cut off wheel.
I used a very thin dimond cut off wheel they sell at lowes, cut a hole bigger than a standard servo, while inside the rudder looked around and everything look good, added some more aropoxy, ( I tend to use atleast 1 tube per build) then took the honeycome skin I cut off, epoxy light ply to the skin on both sides of the inside of the rudder, then built hardwood blocks to the skin, then build blocks that I was able to screw from the bottom of the rudder, and 1 from the other side of the rudder skin, But I didn't like the gap so I just aropoxy the skin smoth with the rudder, I really dought I will have to replace the servo but If I have to I will just cut it out on the glue joint.
But I have to say it has been very odd to find not single air leak in the door rams, or retracts. The Retract all work with no mods, granted mine dose not have the sweet scale gear like the SM.
I still went throw everything and loctited the bolts, I couldn't belive the breaks worked and worked wheel, as I was given a set of FEJ rear wheels for the byron F16 I was working on and they were completly useless in jet as the breaks would just leak no mater how much lub, or work you did to them.
I have been debateing about cutting holes in the bottoms of the wings like I did for the elevators, but from what I can see from the servo hach, etc it all looks good, I did read on the Non Honeycomb jets some had isses with the carbon spar pulling out of the wing like a popsicle stick as they were just glued in basa, but this has ply and honeycombe epoxy to the carbon spar, It looks really good, and the servo bay was a little over built for my likeing.
So my other issue was the rudder, I did not like the FEJ methoud, even thow it would of been nice, they tried to make the rudder easy to pull off with just 2 easy to reach from the out side alen head bolts in the rudder base. They wanted you to mount a standard servo in the base with a 11/2in allumnum finger bolted to your servo arm to reach up inside the rudder it self. I tried and tried and I could not get this set up to work to my likeing. So out came the cut off wheel.
I used a very thin dimond cut off wheel they sell at lowes, cut a hole bigger than a standard servo, while inside the rudder looked around and everything look good, added some more aropoxy, ( I tend to use atleast 1 tube per build) then took the honeycome skin I cut off, epoxy light ply to the skin on both sides of the inside of the rudder, then built hardwood blocks to the skin, then build blocks that I was able to screw from the bottom of the rudder, and 1 from the other side of the rudder skin, But I didn't like the gap so I just aropoxy the skin smoth with the rudder, I really dought I will have to replace the servo but If I have to I will just cut it out on the glue joint.
04-30-2015, 05:45 AM
#43
My Feedback: (34)
Wow FEJ yumm.
They say it only needs 22 pounds of thrust. No way unless you are flying off hardball.
I got 3 flights in yesterday and was very impressed except for the take offs. I'm using a 21 pound thrust p80 and my weight is 26 pounds dry.
Our grass was a little long but the size of the nose wheel and lack of power were very notable.
It wouldn't gain ground speed unless I pulled the nose up then it would jump up. It would fly out very very slowly but after the first lap at full power it would get on step and was quite nice to fly, it was definitely hurting in the vertical department.
This 1/7 needs at least 27 pounds of thrust
I was surprised it almost seemed to have the same top speed at 3/4 throttle vs full.
Landing were great, on my 3rd flight the gear would not come down (turns out the micro hitec stripped on the robart valve )
It belly landed very well with the 2 rear bottom rudders comeing off.
I have to say she is a keeper, I think I will try moving the main front tank farther back to lighten up the nose some on takeoff
They say it only needs 22 pounds of thrust. No way unless you are flying off hardball.
I got 3 flights in yesterday and was very impressed except for the take offs. I'm using a 21 pound thrust p80 and my weight is 26 pounds dry.
Our grass was a little long but the size of the nose wheel and lack of power were very notable.
It wouldn't gain ground speed unless I pulled the nose up then it would jump up. It would fly out very very slowly but after the first lap at full power it would get on step and was quite nice to fly, it was definitely hurting in the vertical department.
This 1/7 needs at least 27 pounds of thrust
I was surprised it almost seemed to have the same top speed at 3/4 throttle vs full.
Landing were great, on my 3rd flight the gear would not come down (turns out the micro hitec stripped on the robart valve )
It belly landed very well with the 2 rear bottom rudders comeing off.
I have to say she is a keeper, I think I will try moving the main front tank farther back to lighten up the nose some on takeoff
04-30-2015, 06:08 AM
#44
The F-16 really has a top speed. Extra power will result in better vertical, and higher fuel consumption. But you will not get a lot more speed. Add external stores, the top speed decreases.
I agree 21lbs is less than what I have on my 1/8, and even at that size I have to be frugal and use inertia a lot. You really need a 30 pounder in there so you can have a little fun.
For the ventrals you can use rare earth magnets to attach. If you ever strike them again they just separate upon contact. They will not separate in flight. I CA mine, thats it. They separate as well upon contact. I do the same for Sidewinder Rails.
David
I agree 21lbs is less than what I have on my 1/8, and even at that size I have to be frugal and use inertia a lot. You really need a 30 pounder in there so you can have a little fun.
For the ventrals you can use rare earth magnets to attach. If you ever strike them again they just separate upon contact. They will not separate in flight. I CA mine, thats it. They separate as well upon contact. I do the same for Sidewinder Rails.
David
04-30-2015, 11:13 AM
#48
My Feedback: (34)
So your saying go with a motor that is only a 3/4 pound lighter with only one more pound of thrust?
Or a older P120 at 27 pounds that weight less than a 1/4 pound more for 6 exstra pounds of thrust....
I was thinking of getting a AMT 280 at 28 pounds of thrust but it's 2.5 pounds heavy er than my P80 As I can find one around $700.
I have to many jets and motors to buy a new one
Or a older P120 at 27 pounds that weight less than a 1/4 pound more for 6 exstra pounds of thrust....
I was thinking of getting a AMT 280 at 28 pounds of thrust but it's 2.5 pounds heavy er than my P80 As I can find one around $700.
I have to many jets and motors to buy a new one
