thunderchief

Terry,
Both my F=106A and my X-35B were painted with Klass Kote it works great. Very easy to work with. To get flat colors you need to add a flat powder to the hardner. The flat colors seem to set (cure) faster then the glossey ones. I did not use their primer, I just used automotive primer/filler in a spray can . Their plaints cover very well and you will be surprised how little paint it takes to cover a plane. I do recommend their thinner. I did use a cheaper thinner for cleaning my gun, however.
Glenn

tlj125

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Glenn,

I bought the grey primer and thinner along with three gloss colors- red, yellow, blue. After flying the grey F-16, I want high visability on this small plane. Decided against the flat paint since it won't be a military scheme. Didn't get the clearcoat yet. Wasn't sure I would need it. I didn't know you could use primer from a spray can with this stuff. Thought it had to be epoxy so I bought their's.

Did you have to use a respirator? Or can you just use a dust mask? I'll be spraying outside so ventilation won't be an issue. I don't have a paint booth anyway.

Did you clearcoat the 106 and X-35? Have you had the chance to fly either one yet? Any additional tips would be appreciated.

Terry

thunderchief

Terry, I sprayed in my garage and used just a simple mask. It has charcoal filters on it, but a simple particle mask I think would be fine , especially outside. I did not clear coat. I do not think you will need to. The glossy hardener cures to a very glossy wet look. With the high temps. We are getting curing time will be shorter. Also watch the humidity. Check the website for the humidity warning you do not want the paint to blush, but this paint seems to tolerate a lot. The 106 and X-35 are ready but the weather has not been cooperating . I have been trying for a couple weeks to get the Jackal in the air but it has been either a heavy cross wind or HOT…for three weeks. Let me know when the big day comes for the first flight so I can video it.
Glenn

agent adds

Great job on the glassing-This is one of the best threads going-because its craft's man ship and a labour of love- not just an open your wallet and i will have one of those.....

thunderchief

Terry, I forgot to mention I use one part thinner, one part hardener , and one part color. I put it in a bottle, and shake it well….then let it react for 45 minutes before spraying it.

tlj125

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Thank you Agent Adds.

Glenn- I thought the reducer was added after letting the mixture set for 1/2 hour. Is that not right?

Started making the canopy hatch. Floor is 3/32 balsa. Bulkhead is 1/8 ply. Held wood to model and traced the shape on with a pencil. Cut the bulkhead 1/16 lower to account for sheeting later.

tlj125

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Line drilled the pin holes to get good alignment before gluing bulkhead to floor sheeting. Used a small round file to get the holes perfect.

tlj125

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Put the 3 mm carbon pins in without glue and pushed them so they just held the bulkhead in place. Then zapped the floor to it with only a few drops. Pulled the floor and bulkhead off together, removed the pins, then zapped all the way around the joint. Drilled the pin holes into the floor using the hole in the bulkhead as a guide. Put a drop of medium CA in the hole first then quickly pushed the pin in place. Did the same thing to the other pin. Then cut the pins to equal length with a small hand saw. Tested the fit and it is very good.

thunderchief

Terry, you are right about the reducer. The instructions say to add after waiting 45 minutes. I got the idea of adding it when I mix the part A and part B together from a video that Dave Platt did. He was mixing everything all at once…. I guess either way works. You probably should follow Nate’s instructions

picard1

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I opened my kit and started looking over all the laser parts in preparation for the build, but I am still in need of a canopy if anyone has an extra or can direct me to where I could purchase one?



Mike

tlj125

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Paint arrived. More work on the canopy hatch latch...

tlj125

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More latch work...

tlj125

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Sanded the canopy hatch to shape to match the fuse.

tlj125

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Then I glassed it...

tlj125

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Set-up for painting the primer coat today. Used a PVC tube inside a cardboard tube attached to a table to hold the plane. Stuffed rags inside the fuse to keep the tube somewhat centered. Mixed up the paint per instructions and started spraying. The first coat was very thin. Sprayed another coat and still too thin. Ended up brushing on a third coat to get good coverage. This primer does not like to be brushed on. Leaves heavy streaks that will need to be sanded out.

tlj125

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Sanded alot over the last week and most all day yesterday. My hands are shoulders are very sore. Sprayed another light coat of primer last night to touch up where I sanded through the primer. First color went on this morning, red. Plan to put on the next color this afternoon, blue. Need to get more reducer. The paint has an orange peel look to it right now. I hope this smooths out as it cures.

Bob_B

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Terry it sounds as if you did not flow enough paint. You could be doing more sanding.

tlj125

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I dare not put more. I think it would run. The primer was quick to run on me. I assume to colors would act the same. I used less reducer. Could that be the reason?

I had to use a brush and touch-up some of the tight spots where the gun could not spray in to.

I guess my first paint job with this stuff will not be the best. So I will learn from it and be better the next time.

Bob_B

My Feedback: (11)

Did you spray a tack coat and wait about 15 minutes to flow on a color coat?

tlj125

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Yes. I waited 20 minutes. Then sprayed a heavier coat.

The paint is now dry to the touch and I don't like it at all. Looks like crap. I'm going to spray another coat over top it now before it cures. Will try to spray heavier and add more reducer. Paint is mixed now. Wish me luck. This is turning into a nightmare.

thunderchief

Terry,
I sent you an email on paint problems...
Glenn

tlj125

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Nightmare continues! Just spilled the paint I just mixed up! Cardboard I put on top to keep stuff from falling in got stuck just enough to cause the bowl to tip over when I went to lift it off. Red paint everywhere. What a mess. Only enough to mix up 4 oz left. Try it any way. Can't wait to see what screws up next.

tlj125

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OK, so here is the results of the second go around. Still orange peel but not as bad. Put down alot more paint. I was sure it would run but so far I don't see any runs. Now I get little bumps (POS) in the surface. I don't know if this is overspray, dirt, or something else. Also got what looks like a piece of fiber or hair on the surface of one of the wings. Looks like I'll have to sand this stuff out and put on yet another coat. 13 ounces so far with just the red! ***? I'll have to buy more paint. And this is a small model.

tlj125

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Few more pics...

fireblade5437

Terry

I don't know what paint you are using but I use 2k light green Ti 2k filler/primer then one coat of 2k though you do need to have air fed mask on. The finish with 2k is like a mirror I don't even have to cut back and polish....

Well worth the cost..

The pic shows my Thorpe Red Arrows I painted with 2k around 5yrs ago red and white and blue, this was finish from gun and yes the wings are foam etc the cockpit was not finished when pic taken.

I have just managed to pick up a little used SATA 4 mini for 129.00 in the UK, I look forward to trying it out.

Alan

Last pic with cockpit painted with same 2k primer onto the clear plastic again good perfect results.