ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Sounds like its time to just go kero start!

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Yeah, you got one of them that will work with my RAM500?? Nice little 12lb turbine. Works perfectly; has for lots of hours. Just likes Powermax for starting... Come on, contribute something to the thread or stay out of it!!!

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

I agree with Ram Flyer... especially since the thread is over a year old... BUT... I'm not sold on Kero start. When it works... it's great... but I watched 2 engines have issues a couple weeks ago with Kero start. They both turned into flame throwers... and one required an extinguisher.

I'll stick to Propane for starting.

Wclays

My Feedback: (85)

I understand the concern over loosing the Power Max can. I really did not want to lose my triger for the Power Max can.

So I started refilling the cans. It is simple and easy.

Clay

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

Amen to that brotha' ! I've decided to stick to gas start too - not really a bother now that we have the valve to use the readily available camping gas, and *much less* of a chance to turn your jet into a burning puddle of kero. Unfortunately, soon you won't be able to get a new gas start engine anymore... [&o]

Bob

djay

That is what I ended up doing, only I removed the braided hose and swaged end from the regulator at the screw in nut, which left a long barb sticking out over which the gas supply pipe just fitted straight onto.
Works a treat.

Darryl

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Guys, the change over to the pancake style butane/propane canister should not be an issue. I made a new fitting to go into the pancake can nozzle using a piece of 1/8” brass tube. The old style barbless fitting for the now extinct Power Max can, won’t work in the pancake can. The fitting opens the valve but in turn seals the fluid from escaping. There needs to be a flow path from the valve into the supply line. I did this by cutting a 1/8” long lengthwise slit in the brass tube. Now the brass fitting can open the can valve and the slit provides a path for the fluid to escape to the supply plumbing. There is an O ring above the valve that will prevent fluid escape to the atmosphere. Keep the slit in the brass tube at 1/8” so you don’t bridge that O ring. I also soldered a washer on the brass tube to provide a grip when I push the fitting into the can. You may be able to modify the plastic barbless fitting in the same manner but I'm not sure it will seal at the O ring. Very important, as previously mentioned, hold the pancake can upside down to get fluid instead of gas.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

djay and Square Nozzel; Do you have any pictures of what you have done???

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Photo of my propane probe for the Coleman pancake style Butane/Propane canister. Sorry for the size, no closeup lens, but I think you can get the idea.

djay

No Photo, but I brought the portable stove which comes in a small red plastic container.
At the regulator end I cut away the swage around the end of the braided hose. The swage is only thin soft metal so a craft knive will cut through it. I then cut away and pulled of the hose from the regualtor.
This left the regulator intact with a barb sticking out where the hose was attached.
To this barb I fitted some 3mm yellow gasline straight onto it, it is a good fit.
The other end of the gas line has the quick release fitting to plug into the aircarft.
The regulator then just screws straight onto the top of the gas bottle and works a treat., shuts off the flow off gas completely , and when the regulator is opened the gas flow can be adjusted niceley.
Leak tested underwater and no leaks.

picture of stove and regulator are in zaskarkid post on the previous page.


Darryl