invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Definitely let me know on the Freekote. If its as good as i hear it is, I would be really interested in switching to it to eliminate all of the waxing needed on my molds

cgrcjet

Will do. I should be molding tail section this next week after i recieve my supplies. I will do a few tests first to make sure all is well. Keep ya posted.

I may want to see about getting some of that cloth from you. I ordered a roll of 10 oz. 7500 today. Suppose to conform very well. What oz was yours?

chris

Flynstuff

My Feedback: (29)

Chris

Jeff Tolomeo here in Ca.

How have you been??? As for the Frekote, Are you using aluminum molds?

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Chris,
Its 18oz stuff, not very conformable, but would work well for wings, tail sections and flange buildup.

cgrcjet

Hi Jeff

Very busy. Do i know you? Name sounds familiar.

No aluminum. I will be doing composite molds.

I could not imagine doing aluminum at this scale and detail.


chris

cgrcjet

Ok Jeff. Sorry, for being forgetful. I believe i remember you now. Met you at California jets and LA jets with John, right? Please tell me im right. Dont want to be an idiot twice in a row.

thanks
chris

cgrcjet

Finished designing/cutting raised panels etc. for rear wing and elevator. Next step will be to glue these on and spray a couple layers of highly reduced paint. I will them finish sand to 600 start applying rivets and scribing panel lines.

chris

cgrcjet

Recieved my molding materials today. Will do some expiromenting with the sealer and release and post the results when finished. May try some casting resin as well seeings i am impatient. That will only take about 10 min. to get some results but the mold surface coat will still need to be tested seeings its what i will be needing to release from these plugs.

I have chose to use laminating resin with graphite powder and colloidal silica for my surface coat. On a majority of my last molds i used aluminum filled surface coat. This is mainly used for heat cure, high temp. , but its a little more expensive and i have only needed room cure and low heat for layups. I have also used the laminating resin method on a few molds and seemed to work good. Graphite powder is known for its lubricating properties and i also believe helps make for better abrasion resistence. The colloidal silica is to thicken the resin so it stays on the plug. I will also add in some milled 1/8" fibers to help with any potential chipping on the mold surface coat as it will act as a binder.

chris

cgrcjet

Couple pics of the rear wing/elevator before rivets.

chris

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Those things look awesome man!

cgrcjet

Thanks Thomas. Wait until i get the rivets on. You make it back home yet? I thought we were going to cut out your foamy f-14 the other day.

I tried the sealer/release and it seems to work very nice in my test. I tested it on a piece that was not sanded and polished with textured surface. As you can see by the paint transfer, the left side had no release and the right did. Looks very promising and seems to work pretty slick. I will still try one piece to be safe before going overboard.

Time to start some parting boards. I used milamine last time and will probably go with it again, unless someone here has a better option. Good thing about using cad model is i can make a file and cut out the parting planes on my machine as well. I hate doing parting planes but this should make it quicker than last time.

chris

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi Chris
I'm totally MAD of the A10 !
I'm waiting from you a really bigger model with all the detail you mentioned !!!
About 4m wingspan ! ( 15 feet )
Did you ever think to that ?
Stan

cgrcjet

Hi Stan

I have always liked that weathering job you have done on your Mibo. Excellent work.

I had plans to do a 1/7 scale but thought i would fix my 1/9 first. I do not plan on doing one that size. I am sure you have seen the larger one mibo is doing. Very crazy.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_94...tm.htm#9497625


thanks
chris

McsGuy

My Feedback: (1)

Stan, the level of detail and perfection in your work is inspirational, your plane is epic!

Chris, your A10 will be my first scale attempt. Please excuse my ignorance, I have alot to learn but are there different competition classes based on size? For example is it typical for a given plane that a 1:5 go up against a 1:7 or is scale size irrevelent?

I flew my first 170mph+ jet at a meet yesterday. It was the CARF Spark utilizing Stumax' new 110 fan and it was an extrodinary rush. As I was walking it back to the pits I was asked on 3 separate occasions if it was fuel turbine powered, it sounded that much like it was. Also exciting is by changing from 10S to 12S I have a 200mph craft so I will be able to stretch my skill on it.

Thanks,

Joe

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Yea I got home friday afternoon. I was hoping to make it back down at least once more before I left, but beginning tuesday, everything that could go wrong did and it was loonnnggg 14+ hour days. I'll be back down later this year i'm sure, so i'll be sure to stop by again..

cgrcjet

Hi Joe
Im probably not the best person to ask on that one. Tam won best edf last year at california jets with one of my A-10's. Not sure how they break it down as far as size. I do know the level of detail is much harder on smaller scale and thats one reason why i wanted to do a 1/7 scale. Not to big and not to small. Something thats easy to take out more often.

chris

cgrcjet

Ya, i was worried sick about you, lol. Not in the air 14 hours i hope? If those quitos were as bad as last year in August when i got here, im sure you will be back. I just heard yesterday that Tampa area was the worst place in the U.S. for them.

chris

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Nah, not 14 hours in the air. We'd end up flying an airplane out to Lake Wales airport around 8am, and then sit around until about 7pm then get to work, and be back at the hotel around 10pm.. loonngg days. Yea, central/south florida REALLY sucks for mosquito's!

For a bit off-topic fun, I've attached a few photo's of our fun for that week. ha

McsGuy

My Feedback: (1)

cgrcjet

Made some parting planes today for the tail section. Like i was saying, its much easier all around to work off a cad model. These parting planes with a few small adjustments were cut out very quickly on my cnc machine. Had only taken a couple hours for design and cut and they came out very precise. Last time i traced and cut them out by hand. Still one of the more annoying things to do when making molds.

I mark out where i want to have my parting plane on the plug and then put some filler pieces on the under side for support. Some people use modeling clay to fill in the small gaps around the edges but i like to wax the edge at the parting plane and smere some bondo in. Before it cure to hard, i will trim what i can with a chisel flat to the parting plane. When it has cured to a harder state i will pull the plug out and sand the bondo down flat to the parting plane with a palm sander. Makes for a stronger and better edge over clay in my opinion.

chris

cgrcjet

I guess i lied when i said parting boards are the worst. I forgot about the sanding part until today. Did a bit of finish sanding up to 1500 grit. Not so fun when you have alot of detail and rivets in the way. The whole plugs were sanded to 320 grit before applying the raised rivets. I will need to polish these areas in the molds out with the final grits when i open them as i was affraid to accidentally alter them. I think next time i will go to 600 grit before applying the raised rivets. Here is the sheen the 1500 brings it up to. The bottom of the rudder and top of verticle stab.

Just waiting on some epoxy clay to arrive and i will start molding these. Epoxy clay makes fast work of these molds and allows quick buildup. Should only take me 4 sessions when molding each side. Surface coat, 3 layers of glass, epoxy clay and 3 more layers of glass makes for a rigid mold. I could not imagine doing them like how some others do, with straight 50 layers of glass. To much work for me.

chris

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Chris,
Looks good. I used the epoxy dough/clay stuff for my gear door molds w/o any glass layers. If I hadn't had so much fiberglass cloth laying around, I would of just used the dough/clay stuff for my molds. Much easier and faster to do!

McsGuy

My Feedback: (1)

Looks good, and like alot of work, I hope you sell many (first one to me though )

cgrcjet

On my last one, i used bondo for my gear door molds. I added 6 0z. cloth between coatings to give it strength. Yes the dough saves alot of time. I cannot see spending another 24 hours straight for one fuse half. I did use this on my last fuse mold but i added to many layers of cloth. I was being safe because i did not know what to expect. Now that i have experience with it, things will go easier. $75 a gallon but if you think about it, the gallon of laminating resin with hardener is well over $100. What brand did you use?

chris

cgrcjet

Joe

Some people do not realize the amount of work that goes into these projects. Lots of work but it will pay off in the end.

chris