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F104g 1:4 scale

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Old 03-05-2018, 02:51 AM
  #226  
mirce
 
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"Mirce models" will be again on Top Gun event this year.

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If someone wants to order F 104 wooden kit & parts, we can bring them there.

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I'll see you soon...

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NS Modelers

Best regards

Mirce
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:59 PM
  #227  
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Default Templates and oter parts

Originally Posted by dionysusbacchus View Post
.......
.........First I made molds for the gear doors by first covering the area with Monokot.....
Next I made balsa templates for the mounting bulkheads......................
Now that the main gear are figured out, I will glue them in with Hysol and then do the nose strut, that should be a piece of cake!
Really a fantastic build you have done dionysusbacchus

I am about to buy one of this great model from Mirce, and wonder if you make templets for sale?

Tried to send you a PM, but couldnt find a PM button on your profile.

Please keeper us posten on your progres

Best regards from
Gandalv
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:06 AM
  #228  
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Last call for order F 104 wooden kit & parts if you want delivery on Top Gun.

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Damiano F 104 - NS Modelers

For more information: mirce.rc@gmail.com

See you soon...

Mirce
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:47 AM
  #229  
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Mirce, I hope you did good in Florida, wish I could be there to give "Mirce Models" demonstration, but my model is not yet finished!!

Originally Posted by Gandalv View Post
Really a fantastic build you have done dionysusbacchus

I am about to buy one of this great model from Mirce, and wonder if you make templets for sale?

Tried to send you a PM, but couldnt find a PM button on your profile.

Please keeper us posten on your progres

Best regards from
Gandalv
I don't have much in the way of "templates" but something may be lost in translation. I have received other requests for parts, and I apologize but I have been to busy to make them yet. I just finished another F-4 and now I have an F-18F in my shop for a complete overhaul, but it's jobs like that providing the extra money to finish the 104!

It has been so quite, I though I would post some pictures, not much to show but I can talk a bit about what I have done so far.

I made the main gear a separate air system using all 4mm air line and fittings. That includes a Jet Model Products Extra large air tank, JMP high flow air valve, and I will tell you it make a BIG difference. I had to add a separate standard size valve for the main gear doors and a sequencer. Now the gear are perfect.

Bad picture, but I positioned the air fill valves to the nose cone, since mine is now a simple twist off.


Got my K260 installed, 57lbs of thrust! I positioned it back far enough but not too far so that the cone will not protrude when the tail is removed. You need to have room to get your arm into the fuselage in front of the turbine to get that bottom screw, I can do it easily if I remove the FOD screen first.


I will be using the Powerbox Mercury, it has GPS and a built in I-gyro. It is required on a plane this size to have redundant batteries and receivers, will be running 2 batteries and 2 receivers.



As you can see I have started to glass, the parts glassed are the nose cone, wing tanks, rudder and elevator. They are all done in 3/4oz cloth, the reason I'm using this on these parts is because they are as strong as they need to be, and I want them as light as possible. For the wings and fuselage, I will be using 1.4oz cloth, less than half what Mirce recommends, but I'm using internal reinforcement at the fuse join areas, carbon fiber and West Systems epoxy.


Notice also I have provisions now built in for a full light system.

Hope everyone else is coming along with your projects and I hope I was of some inspiration! This plane has been so much fun, I feel like Howard Hughes and his Spruce Goose. I always show it off when people come over, and they are always so impressed!
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:01 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by daorizio View Post
Hello,

this is the second flight of my new 1:4 scale Starfighter.
Not yet painted, I'll paint it as soon as possible.
29 kg at take off, behotec 165, all wood.
I draw it myself using catia, all parts are laser-cut.

I hope that you like it!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu2x9PQjk7c


regards


damiano
Damiano that is just amazing, one of the most scale flights I have ever seen. Very well done !!!!
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Old 05-15-2018, 01:43 AM
  #231  
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Great job Luke, vacuum parts on fuselage add extra scale look, same like fins, lights...

Damiano is fantastic flyer and even better jet designer.
"Mirce models" have exclusive right to sell his F 104 and F 86 wooden kits.

With both models Damiano made many flights and prove design quality and flying performance.

Amazing is how his F 104 fly with 29 kg take off and (just) 160 size turbine. Many modelers ask about turbine size in this Starfighter, so that can be answer...
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Old 05-18-2018, 01:25 PM
  #232  
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On Top Gun I sold my F 104 Starfighter. The deal is to finish the details, the panel lines, rivets on the wings and the tip tanks, and then send the model to England to Graham Buchanan who will add his "magic", complete it and install the equipment.
I hope that for the Top Gun 2019 Starfighter will be ready.

Few photos of the wings and tanks with F 104 Detail and other sets...

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More photos you can find on Mirce sets Facebook page.

Best regards

Mirce
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:00 PM
  #233  
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Looks awesome, love all those rivets! Looking forward to that myself!

I have been working on finishing turbine installation and I did run into some issues. I'm not used to such distances from turbine to nose, so I had to come up with a solution. It would be nice to have more holes cut into the heavy laminated center section formers for wires and just to lighten them a bit. I used my 90 degree Dremel attachment to cut holes between the intakes from the turbine to rout the wires to the ECU. I ended up mounting the ECU at the beginning of the split to the intakes, that is as far as the wires would go. To have access I have to crawl under the plane when it is up on a stand to get to the ECU in the landing gear bay, that should not be necessary once it's all set up and running though.

I ordered my pipe, it will be 33 1/2" long with a 4" opening at the turbine.


I would love to bring mine to Top Gun for display, that would be fun. My 104 is not a good representation of a stock kit, but it shows what can be done with it if you do a little extra work.

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Old 05-19-2018, 09:33 AM
  #234  
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Here are the wire routes I used on my install. Like I said on an earlier post you have to get your arm in front of the turbine to unscrew the bottom bolt, so the wires were routed in between the intake ducts. I had to cut holes in 3 very thick formers, it took a little doing, might save someone some work later if you want to position your ECU as I did.


I will run the fuel line through the same hole.

The ECU is positioned as far forward as the wires would allow, it ended up just between the intakes where they come together to go aft. I called Kingtech and they said that they don't make extensions, so you have to work with what you have and this was the best if not the only solution.

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Old 06-01-2018, 08:49 PM
  #235  
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Default Trying to reach dionysusbacchus

dionysusbacchus,
please contact me to let me know if you still can make the canopyís for the CMP zero. Iím sorry to post here but couldnít private message you and didnít see any other way to contact you.
Thanks,
Bryan
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:07 AM
  #236  
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Bryan, Sorry, but I generally do not make any parts for other people anymore. I had to shut off my PM's because I get to many requests for parts and things, it's just overwhelming to me. I don't mean to be rude, I just don't have the time to tell people that all the time. Good luck on finding a canopy.


On the GIANT 104 I'm using my standard light weight finishing technique, and let us not forget easy! I hate sanding resin, it's laborious and not to mention heavy. I use Z-Poxy finishing resin thinned about 40 percent with Denatured Alcohol. I do not measure however, you just need to practice to get the consistency right, if you thin it to much you will not have enough resin in the cloth and it will turn white, to thick and it will show as shinny spots, or pools of resin. No scraping or dabbing up resin is necessary if you do it right, it also flows so much better when thinned, I've used this method for about 18 years now.

Next I use the Bondo Spot Putty (red) mixed with acetone to a consistency of ketchup, paint this on to fill the weave of the cloth and any minor imperfections. It is very helpful in determining if you have any problem areas that may need more filler like low spots you may have missed.

Last you block sand with 320 or so, it is very easy to sand and will just fall to the ground and not float around like epoxy. If you try it you will thank me!




After sanding, I will spray Feather Fill, a two part epoxy primer, then Mirce Model detail set, then finally paint!
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Old 06-06-2018, 02:02 AM
  #237  
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Hi Luke Iím still a live lol just been going through a divorce such is life. Awesome work mate canít wait to get mine done. But Iím back weíre I left off almost got my air intakes done ready for sheeting

Last edited by Damo260; 06-06-2018 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:15 AM
  #238  
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Damo, Nice to have you back, sorry about the divorce, that sucks man.

When you picking up the Airworld gear? Be nice to have those now so you can easily make the changes to the center section. My modifications to the intake shape were extensive, and after they were sheeted and the gear bay hole was cut I flattened the intakes at the hinge line with a square hardwood stick. Not much of the original former was left in that area, so it was easy to straighten!

Anyway, looking forward to your continued progress.

Luke
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:43 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by dionysusbacchus View Post
Bryan, Sorry, but I generally do not make any parts for other people anymore. I had to shut off my PM's because I get to many requests for parts and things, it's just overwhelming to me. I don't mean to be rude, I just don't have the time to tell people that all the time. Good luck on finding a canopy.


On the GIANT 104 I'm using my standard light weight finishing technique, and let us not forget easy! I hate sanding resin, it's laborious and not to mention heavy. I use Z-Poxy finishing resin thinned about 40 percent with Denatured Alcohol. I do not measure however, you just need to practice to get the consistency right, if you thin it to much you will not have enough resin in the cloth and it will turn white, to thick and it will show as shinny spots, or pools of resin. No scraping or dabbing up resin is necessary if you do it right, it also flows so much better when thinned, I've used this method for about 18 years now.

Next I use the Bondo Spot Putty (red) mixed with acetone to a consistency of ketchup, paint this on to fill the weave of the cloth and any minor imperfections. It is very helpful in determining if you have any problem areas that may need more filler like low spots you may have missed.

Last you block sand with 320 or so, it is very easy to sand and will just fall to the ground and not float around like epoxy. If you try it you will thank me!




After sanding, I will spray Feather Fill, a two part epoxy primer, then Mirce Model detail set, then finally paint!

Thanks for this detail, I will be building the F100 soon and will stick to my method and epoxy system for glassing but I will absolutely be following your application of the filler or fairing compound it makes perfect sense and I'm sure will save allot of time.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:15 PM
  #240  
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Thanks CRTech! My method not only saves time it is as light as you can get with fiberglass. Another advantage is that it is not messy to apply, no scraping of credit cards or soaking up of excess resin. If you are interested just do a small experiment on a sheet of balsa. One guy told me after trying it that I changed his life! lol! He no longer hates covering planes now. I understand that everyone has their method and people tend to stick with what works, but if you are frustrated with covering or are new, give my method a try.

I like to prime one part at least as an incentive to finish the larger parts, so I primed the stab. It is now ready for wet sanding with 400 grit.

Here you can see the sanded spot putty, any low areas are filled and for the other spots I missed I used the green spot putty.



Out of focus, but you can see how the filler sands and fills the weave of the cloth and any small imperfections.




Feather Fill primer applied.

On the Mirce F-100 I'm seriously considering that as my next project. I was evaluating the design to see if it would be worth it to make the changes I would need to be a better scale shape. Here is what I was considering:

1. Completely new vertical stab and rudder, it is completely the wrong shape and size.
2. Relocate the nose gear to the scale location
3. Canopy hatch is the wrong shape, this would be a pretty big job.
4. Rework the nose shape.

Top view and shape look really great, that is why I would consider it.
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:33 AM
  #241  
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I got the tail section primed and wet sanded with 400 grit. I also have the center section primed but not wet sanded yet. I laid down a heavy coat of primer on the center section, turned out it added 1lb! Much of that will be sanded off, not all but a bunch.

We will have 2 Mirce F-104's here in Texas, I might even be working on the factory prototype! :-)

Also my pipe came in, Gary at Jet Tech did an outstanding job, I highly recommend his work. The bell mouth is machined aluminum and it comes with some really nice mounts, I'm making the jig to mount the pipe in the tail now.


The rest of the fuselage and wings will be easy compared to these parts.

Last edited by dionysusbacchus; 06-09-2018 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:47 AM
  #242  
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Last post I said I added 1lb of primer to the center section, well I sanded off half of that, primer is 8oz. It's important to seal the sanded fiberglass because it will bubble if you just apply paint over it without the Epoxy Feather Fill. I have a very thin coat now, but a final wet sanding with 400 will be done, so more sanding!

Now for some primer glamour shots! I've been looking at this thing so long in wood it's hard to resist assembling it again to see what it looks like painted.



The gaps are not sanded yet, they should tighten up a bit more.




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Old 06-14-2018, 10:09 AM
  #243  
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Great job Luke, that is one fantastic F 104.
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Old 06-14-2018, 11:41 AM
  #244  
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Awesome job mate Iíve got a long weekend this weekend so Iíll be out in the shed working on mine

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Old 06-14-2018, 02:01 PM
  #245  
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Thanks men! I'm getting close to the Detail Set, really looking forward to all those rivets and hatches!

I made a jig and installed my pipe, my turbine exhaust is mounted flush with the rear former of the center section. So it was easy to determine where the pipe has to go with some paper and a pencil. I used that template to make a wood jig that holds the pipe while I make the mounting plates.



You can see I marked 30mm and 20mm for my pipe to turbine distance, I went with 30mm.


The jig worked great, lined the pipe right up.
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:59 PM
  #246  
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luke, really nice work!
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Old 06-17-2018, 09:38 AM
  #247  
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Thanks Barry! Hey, I'll get back to you, I've been really busy, I go through times of hyper focus!

More build stuff! Remember how ugly those inner gear doors looked? Well I fired up the vacuum former and made a set of these babies!


Not totally scale, but neither is this plane, they help a lot, check out the difference:


We go from this, to this:


Now that looks much better!




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Old 06-26-2018, 09:05 AM
  #248  
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This is FANTASTIC!!!
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:03 AM
  #249  
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luke, your cell is not working. Send me an email. Bwraborn@icloud.com with your new number. Barry
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