Vettster

Ok.. so Im not the only one to get screwed over by this company.

Interesting idea Geoff.. I do have a buddy that is a master mechanist. But dont see very often. The sleeve however would need a key to stop it from turning. Something to look into though.

Vettster

Ok...I have all the parts but the screws that bolt the NGV to the tunnel. Anyone know the size? Im guessing M3?

I have two new sets of bearings and two new O rings. I contacted Carlos from RTI about purchasing a RAM Tunnel from him but never recieved a reply. So I took the Tunnel to a machine shop in town. The Tunnel was over boarded, plugged and re tapped to take the new bearing perfectly. The bearing is press fit by finger pressure. And this leads me to my next question...

When reinstalling the shaft with the bearing on the Wheel end.. Since the bearings are directional in regards to the amount of force it can take in one direction. How do I press the the bearing into the seat(while on the shaft) without pushing the inner race out and loosing the bearings? Im thinking I should heat the tunnel first and cool the shaft and bearing assembly?

I checked the lubrication line, and that is clear.

Vettster

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Geoff_H

My Feedback: (2)

Put the rear bearing on the shaft with the turbine wheel. Should be able to push on the inner race putting it on the shaft. Then slide the rotor forwards into the tunnel, any friction from the tunnel will push the races together. Slide the front bearing onto the shaft into the tunnel by pushing on the inner race then install the compressor lined up with your index mark. If you have to balance the rotor its best to do the compressor first mark its position then remove it and do the turbine wheel and bearing. Once the turbine wheel is balanced dont remove it from the shaft. It is the heavyist part so can effect balance the most being out of place.

For the ngv bolts, or any other place in the hot section try and get good quality stainless. 316 would be ideal rather then the typical 18-8 stainless hardware.

Geoff

Vettster

Thanks Geoff..

Here she is in all her glory All back together. Fuel wicks touching the tubes and nothing rubbing. The compressor spins much! more freely now

Ill be flying all day tomorrow. Hope to get back in time to put it on a test bench. Though I probably wont run it till monday or tuesday

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Well done in doing it yourself Hope the run goes well

Vettster

Ok.. Now im getting a little fustrated.[>:]

Didn't bother with this all week cause I have a bit of a cold. But today I had off and tried to get this puppy running. Its all hooked up on the flight stand. Im using the RTI electronic start and all. 2 years ago when I put it on the shelf, I had purchased a new flightworks 300C pump that I never got around to installing, so I figured Id use that. With the Prime feature, I would hit the button to prime the line, but all the motor does is buzz at me. The solenoid buzzes too so at least that is working. I couldn't get any fuel to move so I removed the new pump and installed the old one. This time the fuel filled half the line and began to buzz aswell[]??

What gives? Neither pump will prime the lines

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

The solenoid is "Buzzing?" It shouldn't It should "Click" open. Try to bypass the solinoid, and see if you can prime the lines.

jason

My Feedback: (1)

also can someone confirm the Flightworks 300 will work with that ECU?

Vettster

Sorry.. My mistake. The solenoid is clicking open and staying open with the button pressed. The buzzing is directly from the pump.

The old pump is hooked up but buzzes just like the new one.

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

Put the pump on a battery (1.5v) and let it run. If it's not pumping... reverse the power... it could be jammed. Also... if it's a new pump... it could be tight. Hook it to a small tank with fuel in it. You don't want to run it dry.

Vettster

Yup! I was thinking the same thing. I just took the fuel lines off the tank so the lines are full and the solenoid is disconnected but it just keeps buzzing. I marked the shaft and turned it with ease. Not jammed. My biggest fear now if the motor turns on a 1.5v battery is that the ECU is screwed[]

Vettster

I could only find a 1.2v battery. Neither pump turned over. Not even a buzzing sound. I hooked up the new one and same old story. I then hooked up the old one...and for what ever reason it works! And keeps on working without a hitch? I looped in the fuel tank and ran it on and off for about five minutes. Go figure. All I know is i can now start the engine...though that wont happen till tomorrow cause all this frustration has forced me to drink a few to many beers

and oh yes..I pulled and tugged and twisted on the wires. Dont know why it decided to work. Back to worrying about the ECU[]

k12rc

don't blame you have a couple for me

Vettster

Im on it..LOL

basimpsn

My Feedback: (5)

What size battery are you using? if its a LiPo 7.4 under 2500mh might be your problem. Try a Ni-Mh 3000 6 cell battery.

Vettster

Thanks for your suggestion basimpsn. I actually tried both already and it now operating on the 2cell lipo.

I didnt get around to running the engine yesturday as I had to attend a MAAC meeting that took 9 hours to impeach our Zone Director.

Today is the day