Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks, Matt. It's a fun build! I know they had a T-33 AFS, but I don't know about the MiG...

roger.alli

Shaun,

Sorry for my misspelling.



Matt

As I recall BVM did do an AFS Mig 15.. Unfortunately no longer available. I guess that it is no longer economical for BV to produce these AFS kits. The ARFs have taken over as they are more accessible, and probably more cost effective to manufacture. (They are certainly more expensive!!). You might be able to get one second hand.

I have just purchased a BVM P80 AFS, NIB. The kit is 7 years old and untouched.. It will probably stay like that for a while too as I work through my other projects..

Roger

Shaun Evans

Hi,

I was about to get a bunch of work done on the Sabre, but then someone sent me this video and it stopped my work cold. I literally almost died. How did I not get into this stuff earlier?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlwil...ature=youtu.be

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

DUDE!!!! I just burned 5+ min laughing hysterically.

nice break from the build

Shaun Evans

Ok,

So after recovering from that video, I did get some more work done. I got the carbon tongues glued into the stabs. After the epoxy cures, you have to epoxy some balsa anchors/fillers into the slot on the bottom of the stab. Once everything is cured, you've got a very solid removable stab.

My customer sent me a bunch of Airtronics 94820 digital servos for this plane. I've only used one once before in my E-Flite F-4 on the stab, and I was VERY impressed with the servo...especially when compared to the JR 3421 that they recommend. The rudder servo was fitted to the inside of the fin to measure where to cut the slot, then I assembled the rudder. The rudder is two shaped balsa sides sandwiching a 1/32" plywood center. You have to glue on the balance tab, then final-sand the whole thing to shape. To do this, I used a few drops of CA to tack the rudder to the fin, then use a little masking tape to protect the fin while I sand the rudder down to it.

All in all, the tail group looks GREAT, and the dihedral stabs just set off the look of this bird. Next I'll cut out the main doors...

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

neat trick with the tongue depressors

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Yeah, I learned that from the instruction book! They've got some dimples on the fuse to align the stabs, so it helps that the neutral is held somehow. Pretty nifty!

Shaun Evans

Hi,

The carbon stab tongues are glued in and the filler blocks are epoxied in and sanded. The thin dremel cutoff disc makes for a nice cut if you're careful.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

I got the main doors cut out and hinged. They open and close perfectly and lay absolutely flush with the fuse as they're supposed to.

ron Sweeney

An achievement in itself, Ron.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks, Ron! Once I figure out where/how I want to mount the air cylinders, I'll trim off the extra tabs on the hinges and that should clean that up quite a bit.

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Looking great Shawn.... I picked up one of these to build in the future...

Dude thanks for sharing bad lip reading!!! I've been dieing watching these things... there so dumb, but I can't help laughing my butt off....lol

ron Sweeney

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D21EH...ure=plpp_video

This is some footage of my Sabre after d/f conversion, Ron.

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

These are the best cut off wheels for doing the door cuts.

Shaun Evans

Greg,

I feel like I've seen those in person, but aren't they thicker than the thin, brittle ones that come in the dremel kits?

roger.alli

Nice work Shaun, and you are very fast as well!! It would take me weeks or months to progress what you have done in the last few days.

I have always been too frightened to use a dremel to cut out doors or hatches. One slip or shake of the hand and the door can be ruined. I prefer to use the Excel #13 blades (A John Redman tip) or a balsa saw with the back removed.

Roger

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Sean these are only about .047 thick. They are great to do the cuts. They are much thinner than the cut off wheels made by dremel. They are also great for cutting carbon fibre.


Roger, if you use the diamond cut off wheel i have shown you. you can lay a metal straight edge along the line you want to cut and use it as a guide. Just go slow and the work great. This was a tip from my friend (Tim Redelman).

roger.alli

Thanks Greg,

I will look for that Dremel wheel on my next visit to the hardware store..

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks, Greg. I'll take a second look. It's crazy what carbon fiber does to saw blades. I bought an ultra-fine X-acto saw blade to cut the flaps out, and the carbon cloth under the obechi made quick work of the blade. That thing was to dull for balsa by the time I was done. I ended up using a cutoff disc for the last cut [:'(]

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

The diamond wheels are great! When I do gear doors and such, I always leave the corners attached and cut them free with a saw so that I don't accidently go that extra mm with the wheel and have to fix later.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Got more done yesterday. I cut out the flaps per the instructions and capped them with the supplied balsa. The balsa is precut for the hinges and horn, as is the ply facing for the TE of the wing. The flaps fit nicely, and will look great when hinged.

I also got the cutouts in the side of the fuselage made with a cutoff disc then a drum sander.

Shaun Evans

double post

Shaun Evans

Hi,

After you use a dremel to open up the foam in the wing for the slotted balsa dowel (the hinge filler block), you can test fit the pieces in. I plan to epoxy them into the foam, then sand the LE of the flap flush.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

For kicks and motivation, I put the Sabre up on her gear. It sits VERY tail-high with the nose and mains cut to what looks like the right length. Does the Sabre sit this nose-low?

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

Sean,
It looks like the nose strut is to short. Here's a picture of my old AFS Sabre and if you look the scissor is below the front door.