Cincinnati Jet Club F-18's project
10-29-2014, 07:08 AM
#126
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Originally the mount was designed to handle the P200sx but we have since changed to the K-210. It is probably a little more robust than needed but the weight isn't bad.
Pictures of the 200SX and K-210 respectively
Pictures of the 200SX and K-210 respectively
10-29-2014, 07:12 AM
#127
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The K-210 wasn't available when I started this project so it wasn't an option then, but I think it is a good compromise on weight, size and thrust. I have two already and may be getting a 3rd here soon. 
That's an understatement if I ever heard one.
10-29-2014, 04:46 PM
#131
Awesome!!!! I went with the skymaster F model instead of the yellow only because of not having time for the build... The YA Twin is just awesome! I have a 210 going in my F model as well, I received my Tam pipe a few weeks back and what a piece craftsmanship! Can't wait to see your progess! SUBSCRIBED!!!!!
10-30-2014, 04:09 AM
#132
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Trying to post a few things that I did while off the thread.
So, I didn't like that when you plug your wings in, you have just a 2in coupler holding all the torsion force against the bulkhead. The coupler has two bolts and hysol holding it against the former. I made a change and lengthened the coupler span by putting a 2nd one in line. All you have to do is buy a second coupler set plus you need an additional longer front spar set ( just buy a 2nd rear spar set, they are longer). Now, I get twice the contact area on the front spar coupler.
Nothing can be done for the rear. There is not enough meat on the former to double the coupler.
So, I didn't like that when you plug your wings in, you have just a 2in coupler holding all the torsion force against the bulkhead. The coupler has two bolts and hysol holding it against the former. I made a change and lengthened the coupler span by putting a 2nd one in line. All you have to do is buy a second coupler set plus you need an additional longer front spar set ( just buy a 2nd rear spar set, they are longer). Now, I get twice the contact area on the front spar coupler.
Nothing can be done for the rear. There is not enough meat on the former to double the coupler.
Last edited by Joe Westrich; 10-30-2014 at 04:16 AM.
10-30-2014, 05:47 PM
#133
Nice upgrade Joe. Good thinking.
I've used this style spar on a few models, they work well.
if you use the little set screws they can be a pain if they back out. I like to make a short spar plug that goes in the socket when the wings aren't on and I tighten those screws down on it. Usually make it out of ply with a stop on it so it sits flush with the fuse wing root. This way when you sand on the fuse, or transport it etc those little screws don't fall out. I can text you a pic if you like.
keep posting!
I've used this style spar on a few models, they work well.
if you use the little set screws they can be a pain if they back out. I like to make a short spar plug that goes in the socket when the wings aren't on and I tighten those screws down on it. Usually make it out of ply with a stop on it so it sits flush with the fuse wing root. This way when you sand on the fuse, or transport it etc those little screws don't fall out. I can text you a pic if you like.
keep posting!
10-30-2014, 08:42 PM
#134
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I'm working on a yellow myself. K180g for power. A few mods here and there. Not going all out scale. Just want a good flying bug. Can't do pics from my phone. We can all meet in Kentucky 2015
10-31-2014, 05:50 AM
#135
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I hear ya. We were going to do operational canopy, cockpit mdf's and a bunch of other stuff, plus pack a 200sx in it. I'm not doing any of that stuff now and the K210 should shave about 1.5lbs off the total weight compared to the 200sx.
Here are the simple latch system for the two hatches and canopy.
Here are the simple latch system for the two hatches and canopy.
10-31-2014, 05:51 AM
#136
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Nice upgrade Joe. Good thinking.
I've used this style spar on a few models, they work well.
if you use the little set screws they can be a pain if they back out. I like to make a short spar plug that goes in the socket when the wings aren't on and I tighten those screws down on it. Usually make it out of ply with a stop on it so it sits flush with the fuse wing root. This way when you sand on the fuse, or transport it etc those little screws don't fall out. I can text you a pic if you like.
keep posting!
I've used this style spar on a few models, they work well.
if you use the little set screws they can be a pain if they back out. I like to make a short spar plug that goes in the socket when the wings aren't on and I tighten those screws down on it. Usually make it out of ply with a stop on it so it sits flush with the fuse wing root. This way when you sand on the fuse, or transport it etc those little screws don't fall out. I can text you a pic if you like.
keep posting!
10-31-2014, 05:54 AM
#137
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This is the way the directions have you do the rear pipe supports. They are all finished but I am not to excited about the appearance. Maybe I won't notice them when the inside of the cones are painted black.
10-31-2014, 05:58 AM
#138
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I opted not to do the removable tail cones. I didn't want to add weight to the tail plus I didn't want another seam to hide.
The tams pipe fits in the top hatch just barely! I have to remove the bellmouth and give it just a tiny squeeze. Saves a lot of work!
The tams pipe fits in the top hatch just barely! I have to remove the bellmouth and give it just a tiny squeeze. Saves a lot of work!
10-31-2014, 11:44 AM
#142
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25.5in without bellmouth on. I didn't give Tam a measurement. I just said P-200 pipe for Y/A F-18 and that is what he sent. I make my own lower half bipass from thin metal sheet. I just want protection from the elements thrown up from the tires.
10-31-2014, 06:48 PM
#144
Joe,
That's a good 'peace of mind' mod, but as short at that receiver is, it's plenty up to the task. That's not going to be a failure point no matter what you do. Well, maybe that's a bit strong, but if you bolt them on properly, they'd never fail. In fact, I had misgivings about the spar system for a while during the time I was building my first one. I figured it's just a hair over 1/8" thick and the wing was so big comparatively so it just looked too small. Same with the receiver. Well, after I thought about it, I realized that if it was ever going to be a failure point, it would have done so already--especially on some of those Olympus-powered birds that were 50+ pounds dry that I've seen fly. Finally, Kenny Falconer's crash was a study in what those spars will and won't do. Two 120's, and the plane was at full power and rolling fast as it hit (wing first). When we examined the remains, any shred of doubt about the spars was gone forever. It was astonishing to see what happened, but the gist of it was that even a devastating impact couldn't defeat the setup--let alone flight loads.
That engine you have in there is such a great combo. I built one with a 170 and it was nice. LIGHT!
That's a good 'peace of mind' mod, but as short at that receiver is, it's plenty up to the task. That's not going to be a failure point no matter what you do. Well, maybe that's a bit strong, but if you bolt them on properly, they'd never fail. In fact, I had misgivings about the spar system for a while during the time I was building my first one. I figured it's just a hair over 1/8" thick and the wing was so big comparatively so it just looked too small. Same with the receiver. Well, after I thought about it, I realized that if it was ever going to be a failure point, it would have done so already--especially on some of those Olympus-powered birds that were 50+ pounds dry that I've seen fly. Finally, Kenny Falconer's crash was a study in what those spars will and won't do. Two 120's, and the plane was at full power and rolling fast as it hit (wing first). When we examined the remains, any shred of doubt about the spars was gone forever. It was astonishing to see what happened, but the gist of it was that even a devastating impact couldn't defeat the setup--let alone flight loads.
That engine you have in there is such a great combo. I built one with a 170 and it was nice. LIGHT!
11-02-2014, 07:11 PM
#148
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I have the nose wheel doors finished on all 3 but I am waiting to finish the fuse before I do the rear doors. I know I will just brake them if I don't wait. I did glue all the door liner on. Let's see.... 9 doors per bug times 3 equals a sh** ton of time spent on doors.
11-02-2014, 07:15 PM
#149
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Has anyone used a UP3 valve on this model. I like that valve but I am not certain it produces enough flow for the three large gear plus all the gear doors.
11-02-2014, 07:17 PM
#150
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Yes mostly for cg. But to fit the jet tech tanks in I would have to cut something to get them in. I will put a 100oz in the belly and the 2-40oz dubros as saddle tanks. Helps with cg and easier and cheaper. 10 lbs of fuel forward of the cg does not sound great to me.