HUNGARIAN AIR FORCE MIG-15 RED 047 MUSEUM SCALE 1/4
10-24-2015, 12:53 PM
#353
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Thankyou George. I havent gotten around to weighing it yet, but will eventually. No I didnt try the spead brakes. It was a bit windy and the head wind was such that it wasnt necessary to use them.
BTW, I have installed the new I gyro and started with the ATV on my Futaba at 33. I expect to increase it a bit more.
BTW, I have installed the new I gyro and started with the ATV on my Futaba at 33. I expect to increase it a bit more.
10-24-2015, 01:18 PM
#354
I suspect the gear is not going up due to the weight and lack of the extra ram on it. Craig and I both swapped ours over to electric so it should not hang up due to the weight and air pressure. You have given me new life to getting back on mine here and not possibly selling it. Really glad to hear some more positive feedback on the plane. Any other flight info you can share. I would love to see your setup inside the plane. How was the power with your turbine. To much not enough.
George
George
10-24-2015, 01:34 PM
#355
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I posted a few pictures on this thread # 334 Just let me know if there are pictures you need. About the power. I felt that 160 was just right. Especially since the retracts didnt go in. It needed the power at take off but in the air I was flying at 1/2 throttle. It was comforting not having the feeling that everything was marginal. Today we had 6 degrees C. and we get a good effect from the turbines, but changes very much when we have 20 something degrees. ( yes it happens, even in Norway ) I feel that if you sell your plane you will be missing out on a nice project.
Where did you swap you retracts to electric?
Where did you swap you retracts to electric?
10-24-2015, 01:43 PM
#356
I had a company here in the states called Down and Locked do my conversion. They work very very well. No problems thus far. I'm not sure who did Craig's. There is one thing I would like to see. Do you have any build shots of how you setup the landing light with what Agoston provided. I can't figure out where to mountil the wooden support for the light. That is really what I'm lacking on mine here. I'm going to do a few things on it tonight I guess short of mounting the turbine I have here. I am thinking that the k210 I have will be a bit much from what everyone else has said.
10-24-2015, 02:00 PM
#357
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OK thanks I will see what I decide on the retracts.
On the light I used an angeled bracket. The 90 degree one that f eks BVM has to mount servoes, that I screwed on to the wood part that the light is on and the other end of the bracket on to the wood plate that is for fastening the batteries. The light is activated by a micro switch/ servo setup Y - cabeled to the retract or flap and I use the same battery for the smoke pump as well. The plane is still in my trailer so I cant get any pictures untill tomorrow.
I also think that a 210 sounds like a bit too much, but I guess you could tune it down.
On the light I used an angeled bracket. The 90 degree one that f eks BVM has to mount servoes, that I screwed on to the wood part that the light is on and the other end of the bracket on to the wood plate that is for fastening the batteries. The light is activated by a micro switch/ servo setup Y - cabeled to the retract or flap and I use the same battery for the smoke pump as well. The plane is still in my trailer so I cant get any pictures untill tomorrow.
I also think that a 210 sounds like a bit too much, but I guess you could tune it down.
10-25-2015, 09:53 AM
#362
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Location: Namsostrondelag, NORWAY
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I can vouch for that, the UC on the CARF Mig is quite heavy, and highly benefit from the extra oomph of the additional ram. (the picture is of mine actually) :-)
10-25-2015, 11:12 AM
#363
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I have installed two large Robart air tanks for retracts only ,and two smaller tanks for brakes, gear doors and speed brakes. I think the problem is that the wind pressure on the gear doors and maybe that the wheels are spinning fast, makes it too hard on the electronic valves that just don't supply enough volume to all three retracts at once . So either I will add an additional electronic valve or change to something larger. Haven't decided yet. Problem is that I have to go in and redo some of the installation
. Here is a picture of my light fixture solution
. Here is a picture of my light fixture solution
10-26-2015, 12:32 PM
#365
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https://l.facebook.com/l/_AQHBepF0AQ...%2F0RvTihGM5H4
Here are my two first flights this weekend. On my next flights I will use the air brakes. It can land very slowly. Maybe reduce the bounce on the nose wheel spring as well. The wheel brakes are VERY effective so I will add restrictors on the air lines. Just first impressions!
About the air pressure. I am filling it up with as much as the valves can handel.
Here are my two first flights this weekend. On my next flights I will use the air brakes. It can land very slowly. Maybe reduce the bounce on the nose wheel spring as well. The wheel brakes are VERY effective so I will add restrictors on the air lines. Just first impressions!
About the air pressure. I am filling it up with as much as the valves can handel.
10-26-2015, 12:59 PM
#366
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Very impressive in the air. Congrats :-) On the CARF MiG I find a good landing technique is using take off flaps only plus deploying air-brakes, this to avoid bouncing. Guess the same goes for this one too... worth trying.
10-26-2015, 01:19 PM
#368
You touched down on the nose wheel first. That is a no no with the mig 15. Flair and flair some more until the jet wants to stop flying. She will settle in nice and make you look like a star. My experience comes from 4 carf mig 15's.
Vin...
ps go with hi flow valves like Scott said, 4mm tubing and put in 130lbs of air and give that a go.
Vin...
ps go with hi flow valves like Scott said, 4mm tubing and put in 130lbs of air and give that a go.
Last edited by Vincent; 10-26-2015 at 01:22 PM.
10-30-2015, 05:49 AM
#372
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Budapest, HUNGARY
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Because of doubts dispelled in recent months, I made a thorough test again the operation of the flaps during in flight.
Just for the sake of spectacle got the model a self-designed painting. I mixed a little the old age with the 21st century.
The model at the first flight was a little nose heavy. Therefore the takeoff and landing was a little bumpy. During the flight it was still very handed.
At second and third test, after some CG adjustment the model was better than before.
Again, I concluded that this is a very good model to use and easy to fly. Free of surprises, strong structure, easy to handle well-constructed model.
Since it mostly get out of the building, very great pleasure when I get out with him to the airfield.
During the three test flight the flaps was more than 15 times opened and locked. As in previous tests the flap is perfectly operated.
For me, it was no surprise, since both the design and the implementation over every detail was good. The tests also confirmed this earlier.
A recent test of shots for everyone this clearly shows. The model which flew in Norway (which is also I built) also showed this.
The two previous accident as I wrote earlier, was from the owners building and pilot failure and technical errors occurred.
For these may be the most plausible to blame the manufacturer, but in this case this was not based on reality.
The jet modelings requires thorough preparedness and good reflexes. Thus, while any technical problems to handle in flight.
At the building must act with due thoroughness, especially for new solutions. I always test the finished models surfaces under a heavy load.
I hold the control surfaces with my hand at the point of the servos exhaustion. So I checked on the ground that the servos are strong and the surfaces can move freely.
I recommend this to everyone done before the first flight!
Best,
Agoston
The video can be downloaded from the link below:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x1y3o71d0...v1Sl4CWTa?dl=0
10-30-2015, 06:34 AM
#374
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Mike, I just wanted to simulate the turbulence on the flaps. I opened the flaps deliberately at high-speed in order to view even under high load operation.
The LG works well, but he needs a good pressure proper operation. Next time I will focus not only on the flaps.
The LG works well, but he needs a good pressure proper operation. Next time I will focus not only on the flaps.
11-19-2015, 03:02 PM
#375
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Hi again. Just a little update. I flew the Mig again last weekend. Only one flight. Fog came from a nearby lake and ruined the whole day for us. A sign that the building season is upon us here up north. Anyway, I had removed 120 gr of lead from the nose and am now almost at the 4 cm CG mark as suggested. This did in fact make a noticeable difference. When banking the plane in a turn I didn't have to struggle to keep the nose from aiming towards the ground. It felt very correct. Also I had added a piece of Tygon tubing inside the nose leg spring to keep it from bouncing so easily when taxiing over uneven parts of the tarmac. It kind of looked toyish , if you understand what I am trying to say. The retracts are fine now. Rechecked all set screws and added more air pressure and a high flow SMC valve. I landed with flaps and air brakes this time and it all went at a smooth pace ending in a very predictable landing. Keeping the nose wheel of the ground as long as possible. With the few flights I have had, my impression is that I now look forward to my next flights with this jet. It is very precise and I did not feel any bad habits through a normal flight . I have been asked where I got my pilot. I found a company in the UK called Perfect Pilots. She made one with a leather helmet and jacket , and goggles that I was very satisfied with. This winter I will have to add wing tanks and lights from Details 4 scale.
It would probably fly nice with a 140 engine, but I feel that for me the Merlin 160 is the right size engine and it works out great in terms of CG
It would probably fly nice with a 140 engine, but I feel that for me the Merlin 160 is the right size engine and it works out great in terms of CG