CARF Skygate Hawk in the house !
08-24-2017, 05:54 AM
#1251
08-26-2017, 10:09 AM
#1252
Is there anyone with one of these Hawks disassembling the fuselage for transport to and from the flying field? If so did you have to make modifications? It appears to me that you have to reach in through the gear doors on the bottom to remove and install the screws that hold the fuselage together .
Thanks in advance,
Bob Neal
Thanks in advance,
Bob Neal
Chatty.
08-27-2017, 07:40 AM
#1254
09-06-2017, 02:24 AM
#1257
Lavi were you happy with this setup and amount of restriction before it came to an unfortunate end?http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...l#post12043977
Last edited by In the Haze; 09-06-2017 at 04:10 AM.
10-02-2017, 03:42 AM
#1260
Kit comes with 5 small and 1 large molded NACA ducts, you need to cut the fus and install from the inside. 2 on top rear section near the fin, 2 on the bottom rear section and 1 on the top of the nose section. Can anyone help with the position of the bigger one, I cannot fathom where it would go.
10-07-2017, 05:46 AM
#1266
My Feedback: (21)
Main gear locks?
My main gear from Aerotech Germany does not lock in the down position. It needs a small amount of air pressure to hold the slides at the travel limit, which is not at the end of the slots in the retract side frames.
Is this correct?
thanks
Is this correct?
thanks
10-07-2017, 07:12 AM
#1267
From what I know, that is not right. Mine locks in either up or down position and remain locked even if the lines are disconnected. In fact, all the retracts that I have ever had acted in this manner so you might have a problem with the gear.
Behzad
Behzad
10-07-2017, 08:36 AM
#1268
My Feedback: (21)
Gear locks
Well, if you are correct , mine is machined incorrectly. There is no physical way it can lock down . The trunion block has curved surfaces that hook. The slider hits those hooks and stops. It could never pass to the ends of the slides because the trunnion stops it. I'll post a picture soon
10-07-2017, 09:49 AM
#1269
The only retracts that I know needed air to stay (in that case up) was the spring air and we used those late 80's or early 90's. But, this could be new design. I know I wouldn't like it . As you mentioned, maybe the geometry is a little off. Maybe Dave can comment as he is well knowledgeable.
Behzad
Behzad
10-09-2017, 12:56 AM
#1271
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dubach,
LA
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Well, if you are correct , mine is machined incorrectly. There is no physical way it can lock down . The trunion block has curved surfaces that hook. The slider hits those hooks and stops. It could never pass to the ends of the slides because the trunnion stops it. I'll post a picture soon
10-09-2017, 10:10 AM
#1274
When the slider is at the end travel the trunnion has a flat spot it rest on as show in the picture it is also overcenter so the weight is also adding in the lock. I have not see any issues with this set up in both my Hawk and I have a EA havoc that has the same on air. I have used the air before on my hawk when I had a electric motor fail and it worked perfectly.
I wouldn't recommend changing anything.
I wouldn't recommend changing anything.
10-09-2017, 11:27 AM
#1275
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AucklandAuckland, NEW ZEALAND
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Easy fix on that issue. It’s merely an issue of the trunnion not rotating far enough to allow the slider to ride fully to the down and locked position. And I wouldn’t leave it like that.
Two things to look for. The trunnion has four grub screws on one face which are there to lock the gear leg in place. If these grub screws are not fully screwed in and are sticking out at all, then they will hit and bind with the aluminium cross member post which is there to stop the trunnion rotating too far. Check that the grub screws are all the way in.
Second thing to check is really just that alluminium post that the trunnion rests against in the down locked position. In my one, I had to loosen the two hex countersunk screws to loosen the post, push the trunnion against it until the slider moved fully to the locked position, and then re-tighten the hex screws. It’s just an alignment exercise.
The aluminium post that I’m referring to is the round cross member which also holds the red retract frames together. I’m talking about the top right corner one in your picture,
This should fix the issue. Other than that there should be nothing wrong with the retract. I had to do the same on mine.
Two things to look for. The trunnion has four grub screws on one face which are there to lock the gear leg in place. If these grub screws are not fully screwed in and are sticking out at all, then they will hit and bind with the aluminium cross member post which is there to stop the trunnion rotating too far. Check that the grub screws are all the way in.
Second thing to check is really just that alluminium post that the trunnion rests against in the down locked position. In my one, I had to loosen the two hex countersunk screws to loosen the post, push the trunnion against it until the slider moved fully to the locked position, and then re-tighten the hex screws. It’s just an alignment exercise.
The aluminium post that I’m referring to is the round cross member which also holds the red retract frames together. I’m talking about the top right corner one in your picture,
This should fix the issue. Other than that there should be nothing wrong with the retract. I had to do the same on mine.