CARF Skygate Hawk in the house !
12-08-2014, 09:23 AM
#751
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AucklandAuckland, NEW ZEALAND
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I had problems with clearance of the wheel to the large door with any sort of toe in. So I just adjusted the struts until until I had clearance and the door could close fully. I don't know how much toe out I ended up with.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
12-08-2014, 09:40 AM
#752
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: farnborough, , UNITED KINGDOM
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Yes we tried for a while with the strut covers and did not like how flimsy they were and decided not to install them. I have a friend working on some fiberglass covers, those I will try to fit on. After flying both the Tomahawk and the Skygate I really believe the Full bypass is a must. My Skygate has a more solid feel . Sure hope to see you Jeff, Miguel Alvarez might come out with a bypass kit for the Skygate Hawk he is working on a second kit now for Tony Bonnano with the bypass.
marcs
12-08-2014, 09:52 AM
#753
I had problems with clearance of the wheel to the large door with any sort of toe in. So I just adjusted the struts until until I had clearance and the door could close fully. I don't know how much toe out I ended up with.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
Bob
12-08-2014, 10:16 AM
#754
I had problems with clearance of the wheel to the large door with any sort of toe in. So I just adjusted the struts until until I had clearance and the door could close fully. I don't know how much toe out I ended up with.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
With the three fights to date, with lots of taxi testing, I have had zero issues with ground handling. No hints of over sensitive handling etc.
Thanks for your reply. Could you please do me a big favor and with the gears out (extended), measure the distance of the wheels from each other (from the center grove of the tire)in the front and rear. with that, I can calculate your toe out to see if we are in the ball park or not. the issue is that we would probably have variation in the fitting of the covers so we might end up having different numbers.
I would really appreciate it.
Thanks
Behzad
12-09-2014, 08:02 AM
#759
Thanks, behzad
12-09-2014, 09:18 AM
#763
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: farnborough, , UNITED KINGDOM
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The leg covers are a PITA to get right, I remember this job from years ago and don't envy you guys!
I tackled the job by trimming them as best possible, adding some small strips of FR4 to the inside of the edges so the two halves were roughly aligned, I then added Hysol to the seams and gaps and let them cure. Once cured I sanded the Hysol so the covers looked good, then put both completed leg covers through a band saw which gave me two halves again but with a perfect edge to align and re-glue once the strut was enclosed - a bit of a long way round but it worked good.
A few pics of the legs and main gear doors, the gaps on the doors seemed to turn out OK after some work, the small leg linked door did need a chamfer to get it to work right, again I ended up adding a small strip of ali to the edge to act as a cam so the doors would slide over each other.
I have also attached a pic of the ducting and revised location of the main tank and the centre mounted smoke tank......
Great looking kit once done - flies well I understand too
marcs
I tackled the job by trimming them as best possible, adding some small strips of FR4 to the inside of the edges so the two halves were roughly aligned, I then added Hysol to the seams and gaps and let them cure. Once cured I sanded the Hysol so the covers looked good, then put both completed leg covers through a band saw which gave me two halves again but with a perfect edge to align and re-glue once the strut was enclosed - a bit of a long way round but it worked good.
A few pics of the legs and main gear doors, the gaps on the doors seemed to turn out OK after some work, the small leg linked door did need a chamfer to get it to work right, again I ended up adding a small strip of ali to the edge to act as a cam so the doors would slide over each other.
I have also attached a pic of the ducting and revised location of the main tank and the centre mounted smoke tank......
Great looking kit once done - flies well I understand too
marcs
Last edited by marc s; 12-09-2014 at 09:21 AM.
12-09-2014, 09:26 AM
#764
Marc,
I used your method for getting the struts right and, although fiddly, it work well - so thanks for that. The issue for me is the apparent need for toe-in which is impossible to achieve with the kit of parts I have. Fortunately, it seems that this is not as important as I was thinking. I love your work and will be along shortly for some of your stuff for this jet!
Bob
I used your method for getting the struts right and, although fiddly, it work well - so thanks for that. The issue for me is the apparent need for toe-in which is impossible to achieve with the kit of parts I have. Fortunately, it seems that this is not as important as I was thinking. I love your work and will be along shortly for some of your stuff for this jet!
Bob
12-09-2014, 09:45 AM
#765
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: farnborough, , UNITED KINGDOM
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Seem to re-call (after I had the legs re-welded in the right alignment) that there was a slight toe out, as you say the space inside the wheel bay does not really allow for the wheels to stow with toe in.
marcs
marcs
12-09-2014, 10:32 AM
#766
Hi Marc and Lavi Rider
Thanks for both of your posts. Marc's original thread has been my bible from the start and on this I used some of Marc's method to get mine done but will end up with 4 degree toe out which from what I hear is okay. Now to feel better, I am going to retro fit them a little and do what Lavi did so I can get that 2MM free space that I need to achieve much less toe out. will post t he result so others can also see.
Thank you again.
Behzad
Thanks for both of your posts. Marc's original thread has been my bible from the start and on this I used some of Marc's method to get mine done but will end up with 4 degree toe out which from what I hear is okay. Now to feel better, I am going to retro fit them a little and do what Lavi did so I can get that 2MM free space that I need to achieve much less toe out. will post t he result so others can also see.
Thank you again.
Behzad
12-10-2014, 05:15 AM
#768
Not to be late to the party but I just laid my gear leg flat against the wing where the cut out is. That allowed them to retract perfectly. I put it on the ground before I tighten it up to install the doors per the manual so the doors would retract flush. I have a toe in on mine. Didn't mesure it but it handles fine. It could stand to have the up the springs stiffin up some now that I have a lot of landinigs on them.
Last edited by jws_aces; 12-10-2014 at 05:17 AM.
12-10-2014, 05:24 PM
#770
Thanks
behzad
12-10-2014, 05:25 PM
#771
Not to be late to the party but I just laid my gear leg flat against the wing where the cut out is. That allowed them to retract perfectly. I put it on the ground before I tighten it up to install the doors per the manual so the doors would retract flush. I have a toe in on mine. Didn't mesure it but it handles fine. It could stand to have the up the springs stiffin up some now that I have a lot of landinigs on them.
Thanks
Behzad
12-10-2014, 06:58 PM
#772
Yes. I have the factory covers. I did what Colin showed in this thread and manual. I glued the crapped out them to the struts, Mounted the gear as far out as possible. You will have a hard time installing them without have to grind a little off of the outter door hinge posts (wood). I even ground the top of the metal of the gear mount sides. I put the wings on the back half of the fuse and just like Colin showed in the manual. The tire just barely clear the main fuse. I tighten the up enough to pull the wings back off the cut out the inside of the door so it would lay flush in the wing with strut under it. After that I epoxy the door to the plastic strut cover.
You can see they are almost straight in this picture. if you look close you can see the toe in.
You can see they are almost straight in this picture. if you look close you can see the toe in.
12-10-2014, 08:01 PM
#773
Hi Jeff, got it. Your ticket has been that you pushed the gear out so you get clearance on the fuse lip. Good thinking. I centered the wheel in position so that makes a lot of difference. Thanks so much for the explanation. I hope to get at it tonight and see how it will go. Hate to drill a new set of holes on the mount but might be the only answer.
Behzad
Behzad
12-10-2014, 08:12 PM
#775
I knock the a couple mounts loose on the outer door doing this. I had to do it twice becuase I had to replace one wing. It was the same the second time around.
Make sure all the set screws on the gear leg are locked down tight before you do anything. I missed the ones close the tire and covered them up to find out later they will work lose and let the bottom of the leg turn. It will keep the gear leg from fully extending on take off and make contact with the wing on retract. That gave me a fit on the first ten flights until I found them. Some of the guys say theirs are welded.
Make sure all the set screws on the gear leg are locked down tight before you do anything. I missed the ones close the tire and covered them up to find out later they will work lose and let the bottom of the leg turn. It will keep the gear leg from fully extending on take off and make contact with the wing on retract. That gave me a fit on the first ten flights until I found them. Some of the guys say theirs are welded.