CARF Skygate Hawk in the house !
#827
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manila Philippines
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I finally got my cockpit its hand made with a working dash anyway it weights 4 lbs and I i need a 1 lbs of lead to cg at 310mm.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
#828
My Feedback: (33)
I finally got my cockpit its hand made with a working dash anyway it weights 4 lbs and I i need a 1 lbs of lead to cg at 310mm.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
I have 64oz smoke on top of the factory 5 liter main tank. Radio gear including the D&L control box, cortex gyro is coming it a 58LBs wet.
It still seems nose heavy. It will not wheelie very far. I really like the way it lands. It may seem floatie to some but I like be able to get in and out of tight fields.
#829
#832
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Location: Manila Philippines
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Hi Jws I have a 200 sx emcotec rv 2 2300 life 1 3300 lipo the 5.7 liiter main , i also installed on board the 2 liter taxi tank from dreamworks and 2 800 ml smoke tanks still floats and wheelies. Now with the 4.lbs cockpit and 1 lbs tail weight I flew it today just the main tanks and no smoke and she flew so scale like a heavy jet should be. but to fill up the other tanks I guess would be too much
Also the mains bottom right away do you guys install stiffer springs?
will make a simple cockpit so I can fly with 7.7 liters of jet a and 1.6 liters of smoke
Also the mains bottom right away do you guys install stiffer springs?
will make a simple cockpit so I can fly with 7.7 liters of jet a and 1.6 liters of smoke
#834
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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I finally got my cockpit its hand made with a working dash anyway it weights 4 lbs and I i need a 1 lbs of lead to cg at 310mm.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
would 5 lbs affect the flying badly or is this the goal of the others owners to stop it from flying like a foamy. Mine now uses a 200 sx with smokes batts in front no cockpit floats a lot now .would the 5 lbs mean death?
How much does the carf cockpit weight?
i can get away with less tail weight if I place the batts in the back with the tanks but the idea scares me.
#837
My Feedback: (33)
On my restrictions that I installed in the intakes. I started out with making a plate that fit up in the back of the intakes right about where it starts to curve and open up. I put a slot in the middle to allow some air to make in. It was to much blockage. The turbine was sucking the doors up and canopy under full throttle (I posted a youtube showing that). It was hauling the mail and didn't slow flight as well as I would like. I open up the slot and added some more holes to get to a happy spot with speed and landing.
I have seen some of the guys building a adjustable plate at the back in of the intakes. I read somewhere when they did that I would sometimes split open. It is very thin there.
If I had to guess it was about 60% restricted.
I don't have the pictures with me but look back in the thread my post 566. I used epoxy board from Dreamworks to cut them out from and epoxy them in.
Last edited by jws_aces; 01-21-2015 at 11:59 AM.
#838
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Hello fellow pilots, stopping by to show our Aircraft Model Master Builder designed Inlet Kit for Skygate Hawk . Promising less drag on your Hawk with Bypass feels a lot smoother to fly and when reducing power your Hawk will glide on rails as it should feel. If flying without a Bypass when one reduces power the feeling is you have deployed speed/air brakes, thus our kit also reduces fuel burn.
Kits are done as per order, we can also add tint color to somewhat match the inside of your Hawk, just let us know if you desire it to be colored. Available in Carbon Fiber as well and a lighter Kit Version for JWM.
Contact Marvin A. 305-300-1800 [email protected] If you have any questions. Happy Landings
Kits are done as per order, we can also add tint color to somewhat match the inside of your Hawk, just let us know if you desire it to be colored. Available in Carbon Fiber as well and a lighter Kit Version for JWM.
Contact Marvin A. 305-300-1800 [email protected] If you have any questions. Happy Landings
We have already happy customers, I had the chance to fly one it my self and what a difference it makes! amazing!
#841
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manila Philippines
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Hi JWS,
For my restrictor I made one from plywood and put a single hole in the middle Maybe I blocked 30% I can glue a stick in the middle of the hole to further restrict if needed, Marvins intake is welcome but I dont have a top hatch and I use the original 5.4 liter tank and I added the dreamworks taxi tank 32 oz and left it on board I also have 2 800ml smoke tanks and it still flys light, When I placed my 4 lbs working cockpit I flew it main tank only and I wouldnt dare fly it will all tanks full, I took it out and left the Carf basic cockpit which is like 2 lbs with pilots so I can fly with 7.4 liters of fuel and 1.6 liters of smoke Ill be using this for the Philippine Hot air balloon festival in 2 weeks thanks for all the help
For my restrictor I made one from plywood and put a single hole in the middle Maybe I blocked 30% I can glue a stick in the middle of the hole to further restrict if needed, Marvins intake is welcome but I dont have a top hatch and I use the original 5.4 liter tank and I added the dreamworks taxi tank 32 oz and left it on board I also have 2 800ml smoke tanks and it still flys light, When I placed my 4 lbs working cockpit I flew it main tank only and I wouldnt dare fly it will all tanks full, I took it out and left the Carf basic cockpit which is like 2 lbs with pilots so I can fly with 7.4 liters of fuel and 1.6 liters of smoke Ill be using this for the Philippine Hot air balloon festival in 2 weeks thanks for all the help
#842
My Feedback: (33)
Hi JWS,
For my restrictor I made one from plywood and put a single hole in the middle Maybe I blocked 30% I can glue a stick in the middle of the hole to further restrict if needed, Marvins intake is welcome but I dont have a top hatch and I use the original 5.4 liter tank and I added the dreamworks taxi tank 32 oz and left it on board I also have 2 800ml smoke tanks and it still flys light, When I placed my 4 lbs working cockpit I flew it main tank only and I wouldnt dare fly it will all tanks full, I took it out and left the Carf basic cockpit which is like 2 lbs with pilots so I can fly with 7.4 liters of fuel and 1.6 liters of smoke Ill be using this for the Philippine Hot air balloon festival in 2 weeks thanks for all the help
For my restrictor I made one from plywood and put a single hole in the middle Maybe I blocked 30% I can glue a stick in the middle of the hole to further restrict if needed, Marvins intake is welcome but I dont have a top hatch and I use the original 5.4 liter tank and I added the dreamworks taxi tank 32 oz and left it on board I also have 2 800ml smoke tanks and it still flys light, When I placed my 4 lbs working cockpit I flew it main tank only and I wouldnt dare fly it will all tanks full, I took it out and left the Carf basic cockpit which is like 2 lbs with pilots so I can fly with 7.4 liters of fuel and 1.6 liters of smoke Ill be using this for the Philippine Hot air balloon festival in 2 weeks thanks for all the help
#848
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Location: Manila Philippines
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Toti I have 5 liters of fuel on board and 1.8 of smoke. The gear does squat when fully loaded. It has no problems taking off with full load on my 48lb Kingtech.
On my restrictions that I installed in the intakes. I started out with making a plate that fit up in the back of the intakes right about where it starts to curve and open up. I put a slot in the middle to allow some air to make in. It was to much blockage. The turbine was sucking the doors up and canopy under full throttle (I posted a youtube showing that). It was hauling the mail and didn't slow flight as well as I would like. I open up the slot and added some more holes to get to a happy spot with speed and landing.
I have seen some of the guys building a adjustable plate at the back in of the intakes. I read somewhere when they did that I would sometimes split open. It is very thin there.
If I had to guess it was about 60% restricted.
I don't have the pictures with me but look back in the thread my post 566. I used epoxy board from Dreamworks to cut them out from and epoxy them in.
On my restrictions that I installed in the intakes. I started out with making a plate that fit up in the back of the intakes right about where it starts to curve and open up. I put a slot in the middle to allow some air to make in. It was to much blockage. The turbine was sucking the doors up and canopy under full throttle (I posted a youtube showing that). It was hauling the mail and didn't slow flight as well as I would like. I open up the slot and added some more holes to get to a happy spot with speed and landing.
I have seen some of the guys building a adjustable plate at the back in of the intakes. I read somewhere when they did that I would sometimes split open. It is very thin there.
If I had to guess it was about 60% restricted.
I don't have the pictures with me but look back in the thread my post 566. I used epoxy board from Dreamworks to cut them out from and epoxy them in.
i cant seem to post pics with my ipad but check out toti alberto in facebook look under philippine hotair balloon fiesta for the pics
for cockpit theres a few under photos of me
#849
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AucklandAuckland, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 184
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H guys.
Move now completed 10 flights on mine. For the last 4 flights I've had restrictors installed. It has made a subtle difference in flight characteristics. The model feels more fluid, less draggy.
However, with my model I have discovered a couple of things which may help you.
1. In the 10 flights to date I have had three takeoff attempts of concrete/Tarmac runways. In each of these cases, I have had a flame out on takeoff roll. I do not have this problem taking off grass. Just concrete/ Tarmac. Just to confirm that this wasn't a fluke, I landed on concrete/Tarmac only to suffer another flame out on landing roll!!!!
So the symptom of flame outs only on concrete can surely only be static build up. So I've grounded all landing gear, to the engine casing and fuel tank. Easily done. Just hoping this will work.
But why the issue only on concrete and not off grass??
2. The main landing gear retracts are mounted with long self tapping screws, per the manual. On one of my retracts, these have started to pull out. Self tappers are a real bad idea for such an installation. The retracts need to be bolted. I kind of knew this would happen when I was in the build stage. I should have done something about it then. Oh well.
Are you guys seeing a lot of free play develop in the mains retracts with the struts down and locked? Is there a way to fix this?
Move now completed 10 flights on mine. For the last 4 flights I've had restrictors installed. It has made a subtle difference in flight characteristics. The model feels more fluid, less draggy.
However, with my model I have discovered a couple of things which may help you.
1. In the 10 flights to date I have had three takeoff attempts of concrete/Tarmac runways. In each of these cases, I have had a flame out on takeoff roll. I do not have this problem taking off grass. Just concrete/ Tarmac. Just to confirm that this wasn't a fluke, I landed on concrete/Tarmac only to suffer another flame out on landing roll!!!!
So the symptom of flame outs only on concrete can surely only be static build up. So I've grounded all landing gear, to the engine casing and fuel tank. Easily done. Just hoping this will work.
But why the issue only on concrete and not off grass??
2. The main landing gear retracts are mounted with long self tapping screws, per the manual. On one of my retracts, these have started to pull out. Self tappers are a real bad idea for such an installation. The retracts need to be bolted. I kind of knew this would happen when I was in the build stage. I should have done something about it then. Oh well.
Are you guys seeing a lot of free play develop in the mains retracts with the struts down and locked? Is there a way to fix this?
#850
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: AucklandAuckland, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 184
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H guys.
Move now completed 10 flights on mine. For the last 4 flights I've had restrictors installed. It has made a subtle difference in flight characteristics. The model feels more fluid, less draggy.
However, with my model I have discovered a couple of things which may help you.
1. In the 10 flights to date I have had three takeoff attempts of concrete/Tarmac runways. In each of these cases, I have had a flame out on takeoff roll. I do not have this problem taking off grass. Just concrete/ Tarmac. Just to confirm that this wasn't a fluke, I landed on concrete/Tarmac only to suffer another flame out on landing roll!!!!
So the symptom of flame outs only on concrete can surely only be static build up. So I've grounded all landing gear, to the engine casing and fuel tank. Easily done. Just hoping this will work.
But why the issue only on concrete and not off grass??
2. The main landing gear retracts are mounted with long self tapping screws, per the manual. On one of my retracts, these have started to pull out. Self tappers are a real bad idea for such an installation. The retracts need to be bolted. I kind of knew this would happen when I was in the build stage. I should have done something about it then. Oh well.
Are you guys seeing a lot of free play develop in the mains retracts with the struts down and locked? Is there a way to fix this?
Move now completed 10 flights on mine. For the last 4 flights I've had restrictors installed. It has made a subtle difference in flight characteristics. The model feels more fluid, less draggy.
However, with my model I have discovered a couple of things which may help you.
1. In the 10 flights to date I have had three takeoff attempts of concrete/Tarmac runways. In each of these cases, I have had a flame out on takeoff roll. I do not have this problem taking off grass. Just concrete/ Tarmac. Just to confirm that this wasn't a fluke, I landed on concrete/Tarmac only to suffer another flame out on landing roll!!!!
So the symptom of flame outs only on concrete can surely only be static build up. So I've grounded all landing gear, to the engine casing and fuel tank. Easily done. Just hoping this will work.
But why the issue only on concrete and not off grass??
2. The main landing gear retracts are mounted with long self tapping screws, per the manual. On one of my retracts, these have started to pull out. Self tappers are a real bad idea for such an installation. The retracts need to be bolted. I kind of knew this would happen when I was in the build stage. I should have done something about it then. Oh well.
Are you guys seeing a lot of free play develop in the mains retracts with the struts down and locked? Is there a way to fix this?