rick hamel

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I decided to install dorsil fins on the underside rear as on the scale modelI also enlarged the radio dome that is on top just behind the canopy. I molded in panel lines and rivets-the rivets actually are round and stand off the surface unlike the ones make by using a round tube and pressing it into the surfacethese were formed by a drop of glue on the plugs and are now in the mold as are the rest of the molds. As you can see I installed a stainless exhaust liner in the rear openings in the fuse. The original plastic model had vents just beind the canopy on each side but they , in scale, were really small so I scaled them up slightly to make them usable for cooling air. There is also a shot into the fuse and you can see the carbon flex plate for the nose gear.

ZivBit

Amazing!

corndog2

Looks a very interesting project

Dr Honda

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Looks great.

I'm joining your club... so I hope to see it up close sometime !!!!

scoeroo

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Rick is in a club of his own -
No one makes moulds as good as Rick......some of these overseas companies only wish they could make or have the fore sight that Rick has when it comes to making aircraft

rick hamel

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Thanks guysI'll try to post some new pix of the exaust I'm fabricating in te next couple of days

rick hamel

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looks like the H key on my key board is acting up!

wojtek

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I am really curious to see how you end up finalizing your exhaust rick. I was about to order some bifurcated pipes to modify for mine, but i think I'll wait and see what you have come up with

My biggest concern is pipe collapse at the flattened rear ends .


~V~

rick hamel

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Here are more shots of the exhaust fabrication it's a challenge going from a half circle shape to a slot to form just one leg of the exhaust-I think I'll test the inner tube assembly, as seen, before installing the second outer wall-gettin there it all takes time and lots of it!!

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

Looks good Rick. And also looks like you have the same spot welder i'm using. On my pipe, i'm going to use vertical vanes at the rear of the exhaust to hold the tube in shape and prevent any chance of it sucking in or distorting. There is also the option of running a shaping former on the outside of the outer pipe to keep it in shape at the rear .. then again, i might be over thinking this .


~V~

KFX450

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Amazing..God given talent!!!! and patience I would imagine..

rick hamel

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Thankspatience certainly is a large part of itbut that all comes with how much enjoyment I get out of one of these projects-really just thrive in this hobby!

rick hamel

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Here are pix of todays effortsgear doors

FenderBean

this is awesome I see your using the honeycomb stuff, could you give some info on it? Does it cost more than typical style layups? Is it harder to do? Thanks

wojtek

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I dont know what it costs, but Rick does have a huge oven for baking/curing this stuff !! [X(] [8D] I think Rick has enough in his shop to build a personal space launch and reentry pod ! lol !!


~V~

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

I'm curious about the Honeycomb as well. What thickness are you running it, and i'm assuming a conventional vacuum bagged hand layup is used?

rick hamel

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The thinner nomex depending on how much you buy can cost $250 a 4 x8 sheet-it is laid up by hand and conventional baqging is employed. As far as thicknessdepends on application and design requirements. The advantage is it allows for some outragous designs not possible by convention means.

JetBravo

Rick,

How do you keep resin out of the honey comb? Are you using prepreg cloth for the nomex and curing it in an autoclave. Very interesting project, nice work.

rick hamel

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The idea is to set the nomex into the glass layup while it is wet so that it's edges bondprepreg will work but I just use regular glass no autoclave

rick hamel

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The process is harder -and I ruined a fair amount of nomex before I got the hang of itnow I even use it in making my plugsallows me to do body work on it-like anything else-there is a learning curve