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Thread: 2oz cloth


  1. #1

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    2oz cloth

    Ok, recently I just asked about Kevlar cloth and got a little education on it. I am now going to 2oz fiberglass, but I just had one more question. What would be the difference between single weave and double weave cloth? What would be the best for our RC application? I have fiberglassed a few airframes before, so I'm not new. I just want a better education.

    Thanks!
    Cincinnati Jet Club

  2. #2
    Bob_B's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    Joe i have never used heavier tha 3/4 ounce cloth for finishing. Why 2ounce cloth?
    Cincinnati Jet Club, Team Futaba, Esprit Models

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    50+ lb jet with a P200

    I use 3/4 on my 1/5 prop warbirds

    I may go lighter than 2oz on the tail surfaces
    Cincinnati Jet Club

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    Joe, Check out this web site for cloth selection. They are out side of Dayton. If you use 2 oz I would consider vacuum bagging it.
    Glenn

    http://www.fibreglast.com/

  5. #5
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    I have never heare of single weave and double weave.. You typically have

    Unidirectional
    Tow
    Plain weave
    4HS (crowsfoot)
    8HS

    Thayercraft.com has good info on glass, along with good prices
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

  6. #6
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    I think double=Twill where the warp fibres go over/under two of the weft, better drapability for getting into awkward corners and conforming to compound curves, etc. It has a front and back.

    Rob.
    UK distributor: Jets Munt Merlin 90, 140 & 160. Jet Central UK. FADEC ECU\'\'\'\'s UK

  7. #7
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    Oh ok, i forgot about twill weave
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    I have gotten better answers about cloth, resin and mold making on this thread
    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_97/tt.htm
    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

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    RE: 2oz cloth


    ORIGINAL: invertmast

    I have never heare of single weave and double weave.. You typically have

    Unidirectional
    Tow
    Plain weave
    4HS (crowsfoot)
    8HS

    Thayercraft.com has good info on glass, along with good prices
    That's kind of what I was looking at. Why the different formats and what applications would they be used for?
    Cincinnati Jet Club

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    RE: 2oz cloth


    ORIGINAL: thunderchief

    Joe, Check out this web site for cloth selection. They are out side of Dayton. If you use 2 oz I would consider vacuum bagging it.
    Glenn

    http://www.fibreglast.com/
    A friend told me of that site too.

    Is it manageable without vacuum bagging it. I don't have one.
    Cincinnati Jet Club

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    Sure, you can treat 2 oz cloth just like you would 3/4 oz or 1/2 oz cloth. When I lay up a mold my first layer is always a 2 oz layer of cloth because it is very easy to work with. It just takes more resin to fill the weave then 3/4 oz..
    Glenn

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    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    ORIGINAL: Joe Westrich


    ORIGINAL: invertmast

    I have never heare of single weave and double weave.. You typically have

    Unidirectional
    Tow
    Plain weave
    4HS (crowsfoot)
    8HS

    Thayercraft.com has good info on glass, along with good prices
    That's kind of what I was looking at. Why the different formats and what applications would they be used for?
    Uni-directional is a fabric that has all of the glass strands going in one direction. This works well for needing strength in one direction only (spar caps for instance).
    Tow is a non woven cord

    Plain weave can be easy to work (conforms easier) with if it is loosely woven.. If its tightly woven (which is what I would suggest for glassing) it doesn't conform as well, but requires less filling of the weave. It also provides a consistent surface due to how it is woven.

    4HS and 8HS is a bit stronger (less thread crimp) and offers greater conform-ability than plain woven fabric. I've never heard of anyone using this outside of a molded part.

    Twill is kind of in between Plain and 4HS and 8HS in how it is woven. Typically when you see a "pretty" Carbon Fiber part, it is a twill weave carbon.
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    I use 2oz or 3.2oz crowfoot for my first layer in a mold. Below is a quote from WyoWindWorks on crowfoot.


    Style 120 and 220 are good choices. The 120 will be slightly more flexible while the 220 is a little stronger. Either will work well.

    Crowfoot is the same as a Harness Satin 4. The yarns go over 3, under 1, over 3, under 1, etc. This weave allows the fabric to be more conforming than a plain weave. It also allows the yarns to lay flatter. This is theoretically stronger since the frequency in the crimp of the fiber is reduced.


    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  14. #14
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    How would he vacuum bag? Isn't this going to cover the outside of a wood structure?
    Matt

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    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth

    You either vacuum bag with a foam core wing, or in a mold. Theres really no good way of vacuum bagging any other type of build structure
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    Right,, to vacuum bag it would have to be a foam wing. Vaccuum would probably damage a build up part
    Glenn

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    RE: 2oz cloth

    I don't find any need to vacuum bag when doing one layer of cloth on a sheeted surface..
    SidGates
    Web: http://www.sidgates.us

  18. #18
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    RE: 2oz cloth


    ORIGINAL: sidgates

    I don't find any need to vacuum bag when doing one layer of cloth on a sheeted surface..
    Exactly
    Matt

  19. #19
    invertmast's Avatar
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    RE: 2oz cloth


    ORIGINAL: sidgates

    I don't find any need to vacuum bag when doing one layer of cloth on a sheeted surface..

    If you use some waxed mylar sheet (.014" thick) you can paint the mylars, the put a layer of wet out glass or carbon on the mylars. Then blot up the excess resin with a paper towel, then while wet you can vacuum bag this to a wing or tail surface. Once it cures, the mylars peel away leaving a painted part. This only works in simple surfaces though. Any compound curves makes it impossible to do.
    Thomas W.
    Euro-sport Evo, Scratch built 1/7 F-14D Tomcat, 26.5% Gee Bee R2


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