Robrow

Just about sorted the main gear sequencing on my Tutor but I have a couple of questions that hopefully someone may be able to help with.

I had to actuate the door from the rear and was wondering if I could encounter issues with airflow forcing the leading edge open? To try to counteract I have mounted a couple of small magnets on the front outer corner of the door giving a similar holding force as the actuator.

I also need to secure the strut door to the strut using a linkage which allows for the differential movement between the two and which holds the door closed under some tension. The way CARF do it with their Tutor is to use a music wire linkage that gives the flexibility to allow for all this.

Thanks for any ideas/pics/vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZKse...ature=youtu.be

Rob.

hooker53

My Feedback: (106)

Rob. I wouldn't worry about that setup and air getting under there. Looks good and flat to me. Real scale. Great job on that.

Robrow

Thanks, any ideas on how to hold the strut door closed?

Rob.

kev-o

My Feedback: (1)

looks great im just working on the third one and have used the carf setup without issues its simple to do and works well i add a small flat piece of carbon ,painted white in your case that overlaps the outer strut door buy about 1/8" which keeps the outer held snug while in flight. Daves setup although not 100% scale works really well i would go with it. i saw you posted on the tutor thread but didnt quite understand what measurement you wanted... does this help ?

kevin

Robrow

Thanks Kevin, yes that helps, I'm not sure if the CARF setup allows for any differential movement between the strut door and the strut? As the gear retracts the door moves forward relative to the strut. Hopefully easy to understand when watching the video.

Rob.

kev-o

My Feedback: (1)

Yes it allows for it either go back in the build thread or look at manual for the photos it's a bit tricky the first time but it works well if you follow Dave's instructions. It's way easier than the ultra lightning wings I did for a buddy they were a PITA

Kevin

Boomerang1

I'm building a Macchi 339 which has the same issue, the door slides along the strut.

I'm going to copy the full size set up, a fixed arm on the leg which slides in a slot on
the door to allow for the difference in the arc.

For yours how about a plastic saddle attached to the door which is a loose fit around
the leg so it can slide up & down the leg as the gear retracts? A piece of sponge rubber
glued to the door & resting against the leg would stop the door rattling. - John.

Bill Hatcher

My Feedback: (2)

Below is how I have done the 3 Tutors that I have built.
Hope this helps.

Dave Wilshere

Rob

Ball link will work fine, my C wire just has the tube glued to the door a bit short and it allows for the door indexing as it closes.

There are probably 10 different ways of doing it that would work fine!

Dave

jetnuno

Hi

I had the same proble in my F4 gear. I used an rc car clutch spring (long stroke and low force spring) attached to the bottom of the wing. Worked fine.

The door had a bit of teflon tape to improve drag between door and gear strut

Hope this helps

Regards

Nuno

Robrow

Thanks for the suggestions gents, to save me cranking the lathe up do you know if the aluminium attachment fitting is a Behotec part?

Rob.

kev-o

My Feedback: (1)

I believe it is it comes with the gear when you order from carf.

Kevin

Robrow

OK, all sorted now, I used a simple 2 eared tubing 'O' clamp crimped in the correct position and a couple of heavy duty metal ball links. Also used a couple of small magnets to assist in holding the door leading edges closed.

Rob.

PaulD

My Feedback: (39)

Well done. Looks like it will serve the job well. I'm not sure if those ball links are up to the job though.

As Kevin says, we just haven't had any problem with the stock Carf method yours should be bulletproof.

PaulD

Robrow

Yes, probably the wide angle macro not helping. Sequencing works OK static but I thought about the effect of a 100+mph breeze as I so often see scale models with gear door and retract system issues.

I found that the Lado 'E' door linear actuator soon gave up the ghost stripping its aluminium thread so had to modify by adding a brass nut to give the steel threaded screwjack something a bit more durable to run through. I have now sourced a much better quality Firgelli linear actuator which is the same size/stroke but much more substantial and quieter in operation. I am surprised more of these are not used in r/c applications.

Now to test it strapped to the roof of my car

Rob.

Firgelli

[quote
Now to test it strapped to the roof of my car

Rob.
[/quote]

And I'm hoping you are going to take some video of that!

Robrow

Well I suppose it was only a thought...but you never know

Rob.

extra 300

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone tried to find a workable solution for the front split gear door behind nose leg of the F-15? i am running an Lado electric setup and trying to avoid installing an E-Door actuator on the rear part of the door which opens backward. Front part of the Door is fitted with a 20mm E-Door actuator.
Below photo is just to show which door i am talking about, it is not the actual model/Door.


Thanks for your help.
Regards,

Robrow

And I'm hoping you are going to take some video of that!


[/quote]

Ian, pm sent.

Rob.

Robrow

Almost there now, after replacing the original Lado e doors actuator with the Firgelli equivalent, fabricating a new 8mm/3mm threaded adaptor and playing around a little more with the door geometry its not looking bad. Final step will be to change out the standard Xicoy landing gear ecu for the more capable 13C version (includes individual gear sequence timing adjustment).

Thanks to Ian at Firgelli for all his help.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRV-Y1bQIPU&list=UUcOJ3N4UsQHUcLaP1ytvQ6Q&index=1[/youtube]

Hopefully last update once I have the timing fine tuned.

Rob.

Firgelli

You are most welcome Rob. It looks and works great!
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