Taft Hobby EPO Viperjet, 90mm EDF/micro turbine *Video*
#52
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I'm just converting my Viperjet with tamjets struts and the electro breaks (with turbine I need them to ever stop)
I use the Super Sniper struts which are disassembled to be shortend by about 1/2". One of the main wheels became the new nose wheel and the larger ready2fly breaked wheels will be the new mains.
I use the Super Sniper struts which are disassembled to be shortend by about 1/2". One of the main wheels became the new nose wheel and the larger ready2fly breaked wheels will be the new mains.
#53
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It depends on what you orderd from Tamjets, check his site for info. If I remember correctly the struts I got were for 4mm wheel axle and 4mm pin, but imperial screws.
#54
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in the tamjets website there are 2 kind of strut, if you check, 1 is for super sniper, 1 is for viper, check, this is the 2 link, what is correctly to useon viperjet?
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
#55
Thread Starter
in the tamjets website there are 2 kind of strut, if you check, 1 is for super sniper, 1 is for viper, check, this is the 2 link, what is correctly to useon viperjet?
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...31ccd3df75f2e0
The links won't work here. I use struts that are not for the viperjet as I wanted the real trailing link. If I remember right it was for the Sniper.
#56
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I have a Viper on order from Hobby People, what Battery do you guys recommend..?? Is a 6S, 40--45C okay as I have a new one, or do I need to shoot for a 60-65C..?? The Viper will be stock with no mods anticipated at this time.
Any other concerns such as servos, EDF, or any other issues? This one is a PnP version just needing a radio...
Any other concerns such as servos, EDF, or any other issues? This one is a PnP version just needing a radio...
#59
Prop wash. I have flown mine on gens ace 50c 6s 5300mah. Gives about 4 min of mixed flying with 20-25% left in the pack. I have tried nanotech 60-130c with similar results. ( although I will say I killed one of my nanotech packs. could be coincidence as I use these in my trex 700dfc and 800 trekker also) Higher C normally gives better internal resistance numbers over the cycles. Nanotechs seem to puff more than pulse or gensace as well. Moral to story, don't skimp on batteries. Get the best you can afford.
#63
Thread Starter
If you get 4min flight times and your battery supplier are telling the truth you would do perfect with cells rated 15C, with 30C peak(!) But I know, the real word is diffrent. If higher C cells would only cost more $$ things would have been fine, but they cost in weight and life span too. Heavier with much shorter life.
10 years ago we set up our planes to fly for 15-20min as the batteries only allowed that. This made the setup easier on motor and batteries. You also needed to think twice before buying a setup as you needed parts that work well togeather. Now days we lost all sense of what's working and you press buy on the hobbyking site adding higher C cells to compensate. hm... back then you did't even need to balance the cells.
Most tend to like the stock servos, but have problems with the board. I always buy the kit and install HS65MG servos in my foamies, I feel safer that way.
my TP yellow label over 9 years old and never charged.
10 years ago we set up our planes to fly for 15-20min as the batteries only allowed that. This made the setup easier on motor and batteries. You also needed to think twice before buying a setup as you needed parts that work well togeather. Now days we lost all sense of what's working and you press buy on the hobbyking site adding higher C cells to compensate. hm... back then you did't even need to balance the cells.
Most tend to like the stock servos, but have problems with the board. I always buy the kit and install HS65MG servos in my foamies, I feel safer that way.
my TP yellow label over 9 years old and never charged.
#64
My Feedback: (57)
I went with the E-flite 5000 6S, although I've never used an e-flite pack before, they seem to put out good stuff.
Henke, did you need to mix any aiel/elev to get her to knife straight?
Jay
Last edited by BlueBus320; 10-10-2013 at 03:44 AM.
#65
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Higher c battery has a much higher voltage under load which allows you to get the same power at lower throttle and fly longer. It's like using a bigger turbine and throttling back. With a higher c battery you are not at full throttle as long so the flight times are longer. A 50-65c is totally different than a 15c, especially in an edf that requires a lot of power.
If you get 4min flight times and your battery supplier are telling the truth you would do perfect with cells rated 15C, with 30C peak(!) But I know, the real word is diffrent. If higher C cells would only cost more $$ things would have been fine, but they cost in weight and life span too. Heavier with much shorter life.
-
10 years ago we set up our planes to fly for 15-20min as the batteries only allowed that. This made the setup easier on motor and batteries. You also needed to think twice before buying a setup as you needed parts that work well togeather. Now days we lost all sense of what's working and you press buy on the hobbyking site adding higher C cells to compensate. hm... back then you did't even need to balance the cells.
Most tend to like the stock servos, but have problems with the board. I always buy the kit and install HS65MG servos in my foamies, I feel safer that way.
my TP yellow label over 9 years old and never charged.
-
10 years ago we set up our planes to fly for 15-20min as the batteries only allowed that. This made the setup easier on motor and batteries. You also needed to think twice before buying a setup as you needed parts that work well togeather. Now days we lost all sense of what's working and you press buy on the hobbyking site adding higher C cells to compensate. hm... back then you did't even need to balance the cells.
Most tend to like the stock servos, but have problems with the board. I always buy the kit and install HS65MG servos in my foamies, I feel safer that way.
my TP yellow label over 9 years old and never charged.
#66
Thread Starter
#67
Thread Starter
#68
I have serial # 0003 PNP all stock parts have been working great it even takes off from short wet grass. Radius the intakes which are sharp edges helps the vertical. My batteries and speed control are puppy warm after full throttle
flights. Lands best with half flaps. Flaps (1/2) are a must for grass takoffs.
flights. Lands best with half flaps. Flaps (1/2) are a must for grass takoffs.
#69
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So gentlemen I see we have a turbine powered jet many want to ban for structural reasons and now we have a foam constructed jet with a turbine installed. I was under the impression that heat and foam are not good bed fellows. This combination in my opinion is a disaster waiting to happen.
#71
Thread Starter
So gentlemen I see we have a turbine powered jet many want to ban for structural reasons and now we have a foam constructed jet with a turbine installed. I was under the impression that heat and foam are not good bed fellows. This combination in my opinion is a disaster waiting to happen.
A Kolibri running at full power looks like this
Idle
Either you back mount or center monut the turbine, while ruinning you get a venturi effect keeping things well below the critical temp of the structure. I really think heat would be a greater problem in the fiber glass models then the foamies.
#72
Senior Member
My Feedback: (26)
Thank you, for addressing my post however a jet turbine does have a combustion chamber which is evident in your pictures. This chamber does generate heat in a closed environment and the flash point for EPO foam is very low. How long would it take for the area subjected to this heat loose its structural integrity. Can it be measured that I can't say however the possibility does exist.
#74
Thread Starter
Thank you, for addressing my post however a jet turbine does have a combustion chamber which is evident in your pictures. This chamber does generate heat in a closed environment and the flash point for EPO foam is very low. How long would it take for the area subjected to this heat loose its structural integrity. Can it be measured that I can't say however the possibility does exist.
#75
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The key here is... you draw in "Cooling air" to protect the parts. If Henke set up is pipe properly... And I'm sure he did.... the venturi effect will draw cool air around the engine, and in turn... the foam never "Sees" the hot engine, or exhaust temps.
I have a little crappy T-45 that was meant for an EDF system... but I stuffed in a MW44, and I use a simple single wall pipe. Every event I go it... guys ask.... "Doesn't that get hot?" my answer is always "No, it doesn't." I still get a few guys who don't really believe me, so I start it up, and after 2 or 3 min of idling... the top of the fuse is still cool.
I have a little crappy T-45 that was meant for an EDF system... but I stuffed in a MW44, and I use a simple single wall pipe. Every event I go it... guys ask.... "Doesn't that get hot?" my answer is always "No, it doesn't." I still get a few guys who don't really believe me, so I start it up, and after 2 or 3 min of idling... the top of the fuse is still cool.
Last edited by Dr Honda; 10-10-2013 at 10:56 AM.