1:3.5 Heinkel 162 build
06-04-2013, 02:29 AM
#26
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RE: 1:3.5 Heinkel 162 build
ORIGINAL: Modelcity Peter
Hi
My name is peter and i am the producer of this kit
here are some fotos of my He 162
Hi
My name is peter and i am the producer of this kit
here are some fotos of my He 162
Welcome to RCU. I have been following your threads on the German forums, as I think that your model is fantastic!
Could you post up some spec's on the model?
Thanks
dave
06-05-2013, 04:08 AM
#27
Junior Member
RE: 1:3.5 Heinkel 162 build
Hi
Scale 1:3,6
Wingspan 200 cm
Langth 258 cm
Weight dry 13,5 to 15 kg
Turbine 10 kg to 18 kg thrust
Full composit Carbon
Some pictures of the model of my frend builded scale
Scale 1:3,6
Wingspan 200 cm
Langth 258 cm
Weight dry 13,5 to 15 kg
Turbine 10 kg to 18 kg thrust
Full composit Carbon
Some pictures of the model of my frend builded scale
11-10-2014, 08:16 PM
#32
Thread Starter
Hysol to wood base made to shape to fit where vertical fin meets horizontal stab. Still needs a little final fitting. Before gluing vertical fins to stab need to mount servos and elevators
11-10-2014, 09:45 PM
#33
Are we looking at the back of the vertical? Did you remove the wood for the rudder hinging? I noticed that your stabs had spar extended outside to connect to the vertical stab, did you install them? The only wood in my stab is the elevator hinge wood and it is trimmed flush with the stab.
Are you worried about your vertical rocking?
Are you worried about your vertical rocking?
11-11-2014, 04:57 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Quist,
I was worried about the vertical fins rocking and as you know the tail section was a weak link on the full size. That is why I have tried to beef this up realizing that every ounce I add to the tail means 4 or 5 in the nose. Yes that picture is looking into the rear of the vertical fin. I cut out the Styrofoam to make a path to glue the wood which has a rocker bottom shape to match the fin. It is mostly balsa with lite ply base and aircraft grade plywood where the pins come thru from horizontal stab. Mine came with these fiberglass tubes glassed with CF cloth to the spars inside the horizontal stab. I glued solid carbon fiber tube inside the fiberglass tube. Stiff as can be and these slide into the holes drilled in vert fin. I will also glue in some support to horizontal stab where it engages vert fin to increase contact area for gluing.
I was worried about the vertical fins rocking and as you know the tail section was a weak link on the full size. That is why I have tried to beef this up realizing that every ounce I add to the tail means 4 or 5 in the nose. Yes that picture is looking into the rear of the vertical fin. I cut out the Styrofoam to make a path to glue the wood which has a rocker bottom shape to match the fin. It is mostly balsa with lite ply base and aircraft grade plywood where the pins come thru from horizontal stab. Mine came with these fiberglass tubes glassed with CF cloth to the spars inside the horizontal stab. I glued solid carbon fiber tube inside the fiberglass tube. Stiff as can be and these slide into the holes drilled in vert fin. I will also glue in some support to horizontal stab where it engages vert fin to increase contact area for gluing.
11-11-2014, 05:04 PM
#35
Thread Starter
Quist have you hinged elevators yet? This picture is looking into trailing edge of horizontal stab. I was planning on gluing some hard balsa inside elevator where I will glue in a control horn in a slot. Then cap elevators and horizontal stab with G10 with alignment holes to run a 2 mm rod thru as the hinge.
11-11-2014, 05:12 PM
#36
Thread Starter
The base for the turbine shroud is not a great fit. Either my wing is too thick or the shroud base made to tall. I decided to glue it in anyway after gluing plywood in the front and back. Currently have correct alignment but just #2 long screws holding wing in place. If you have not glued shroud base in yet need to try and get distance equidistant from centerline of wing. I realized this after I had already glued in place but did some hopeful repositioning before glue dried.
11-11-2014, 05:19 PM
#37
Thread Starter
I have not glued in nosewheel retract yet. Mine needs to be about 1 1/4 inches below the mounted nose platform. The height of nose gear is needed to get the angle of attack of the wing around +3 degrees. The real aircraft was +4 degrees. I am trying to mount the nose gear so it is angled 2 or 3 degrees forward but when retracted will still clear the nose gear door. The problem is the 2 steering bolts attached to the strut that should be activated by pull pull cables for steering look like they will rub against inside of fuse when nose gear down. still thinking where I will go with this.
11-11-2014, 10:15 PM
#38
Quist,
I was worried about the vertical fins rocking and as you know the tail section was a weak link on the full size. That is why I have tried to beef this up realizing that every ounce I add to the tail means 4 or 5 in the nose. Yes that picture is looking into the rear of the vertical fin. I cut out the Styrofoam to make a path to glue the wood which has a rocker bottom shape to match the fin. It is mostly balsa with lite ply base and aircraft grade plywood where the pins come thru from horizontal stab. Mine came with these fiberglass tubes glassed with CF cloth to the spars inside the horizontal stab. I glued solid carbon fiber tube inside the fiberglass tube. Stiff as can be and these slide into the holes drilled in vert fin. I will also glue in some support to horizontal stab where it engages vert fin to increase contact area for gluing.
I was worried about the vertical fins rocking and as you know the tail section was a weak link on the full size. That is why I have tried to beef this up realizing that every ounce I add to the tail means 4 or 5 in the nose. Yes that picture is looking into the rear of the vertical fin. I cut out the Styrofoam to make a path to glue the wood which has a rocker bottom shape to match the fin. It is mostly balsa with lite ply base and aircraft grade plywood where the pins come thru from horizontal stab. Mine came with these fiberglass tubes glassed with CF cloth to the spars inside the horizontal stab. I glued solid carbon fiber tube inside the fiberglass tube. Stiff as can be and these slide into the holes drilled in vert fin. I will also glue in some support to horizontal stab where it engages vert fin to increase contact area for gluing.
11-18-2014, 06:16 PM
#39
Thread Starter
This is the nose wheel retract mount on a plywood base. This gets mounted to the bottom of a support platform in the nose. This allows the strut to angle forward a few degrees (not as much as the full size) and yet can retract the gear enough to still get the nose gear door closed. The strut also keeps the nose high enough to get angle of attack of the wing about +3 degrees ( close to the +4 degrees of the full size)
12-13-2014, 08:35 AM
#41
Thread Starter
Rudders now hinged with carbon fiber tube coming up from bottom of vertical fin. When I am done will never see the hole after I "body putty" everything back to a nice smooth finish. Also have installed rudder servos in horizontal stab. Will be moving on soon to mount jets munt XBL140
12-21-2014, 04:00 PM
#42
Thread Starter
Wing is mounted to fuse. 1/4x20 bolts come in from the front cockpit and by reaching up thru wheelwell 1/4 x 20 thumbscrews. This way will not need to remove turbine shroud except to service turbine or pipe.
01-12-2015, 05:37 PM
#45
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Look great there mate.
Good to see progress.
Looks like I'll be joining the Salamander clan, as a mate of mine stumbled on a set of Salamander fuse molds. fair bit small than the one your building, but it should be fun! just have to design everything else required around the fuse.
Thanks
dave
Good to see progress.
Looks like I'll be joining the Salamander clan, as a mate of mine stumbled on a set of Salamander fuse molds. fair bit small than the one your building, but it should be fun! just have to design everything else required around the fuse.
Thanks
dave
Last edited by ticketec; 01-13-2015 at 05:58 AM.
02-24-2015, 07:07 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Small problem with the flaps. The hinging is for 4mm OD carbon fiber rods sliding thru the flap. The molded in tubes at each end to support the 4mm rod did not go all the way thru the flap and were misaligned so one could not slide the rod thru. In addition there were micro-balloon obstructions sealing the leading edge. So I cut out windows in leading edge, ground out the microballoons and drilled out the tubes at each end and hysol glued in a 4mm ID tube that runs length of flap. Then glued windows back-in, will body putty and sand and good to go.