1:3.5 Heinkel 162 build
#77
Thread Starter
So for anyone interested here is how I did hinging for main gear doors. These flat hinges had the pin pulled out and replaced with a smaller piano wire which provides a little slop so the door will move without binding. I glue a wedged piece of G-10 to roughed up hinge with methacrylate glue (plastic welder II). This is then glued with the same glue to inside fuse with hinge facing external. The wood block will be glued in place when gear door taped in place
#78
Thread Starter
Looking from outside fuse before mounting wood block. 2nd picture is after door liner glued in place and you can see the wood block glued in place. The hole in the door liner has an 1/8 piece of G-10 glued underneath against the door itself. There is a hole thru it threaded for a 2-56 bolt to which the hinge for the mechanical drag link ill be attached. Will post pictures when I get to that. But as you can see this allows door to be removable.
#84
Hi Everyone!
My best buddy and I are building two Heinkels from Peter Maissinger as well. Being good friends with Peter , we had those planes on our agenda for a while now as we both are regularly guests at Modelcity in the Czech Republic. Shortly before christmas, we finally received our two kits. Roy invited me to join his build thread with our input, so I will share pics from time to time.
We decided to paint the Slamanders in the so called "Silverfish" scheme. I am not 100% sure about the historical background, but those planes were only partially painted and mostly in primer when they were captured (or flown).
It is planned to have the heinkels ready around Easter (2016 ). So far it is looking good but its still a lot of work left. We are currently working on the wing and turbine mounts.
/T
My best buddy and I are building two Heinkels from Peter Maissinger as well. Being good friends with Peter , we had those planes on our agenda for a while now as we both are regularly guests at Modelcity in the Czech Republic. Shortly before christmas, we finally received our two kits. Roy invited me to join his build thread with our input, so I will share pics from time to time.
We decided to paint the Slamanders in the so called "Silverfish" scheme. I am not 100% sure about the historical background, but those planes were only partially painted and mostly in primer when they were captured (or flown).
It is planned to have the heinkels ready around Easter (2016 ). So far it is looking good but its still a lot of work left. We are currently working on the wing and turbine mounts.
/T
#85
Wings aligned. Elevator and Rudder openings cut out and trimmed. We will use Robart pin hinges for Rudders and elevators instead of one rod going through the fin.
The wing mount is currently under construction. We plan to join wing and turbine mount inside the hump. Also, we are still thinking about making the wings pluggable with 2 alloy tubes for easier transport. Also, the rudders will be removable. All this will add a lot of weight (especially in the wrong areas) but the kit is so light that we will surely stay below 37lbs AUW.
The wing mount is currently under construction. We plan to join wing and turbine mount inside the hump. Also, we are still thinking about making the wings pluggable with 2 alloy tubes for easier transport. Also, the rudders will be removable. All this will add a lot of weight (especially in the wrong areas) but the kit is so light that we will surely stay below 37lbs AUW.
Last edited by Tuggs; 01-07-2016 at 03:36 AM.
#90
Thread Starter
So I made a decision to not go with scale canopy mounting. Would just be easier to access batteries in nose and easier for access to fuel, switches on and go fly.
First picture 2 spring latches in rear canopy frame. I don't want this flying off. Next is G10 tabs going thru canopy frame into fuselage flange so no lateral distortion.
3rd picture is tongue coming out of front canopy. This slides into slot in the front in picture 4. Very secure and easy to get in and out. Will need to glue on canopy and outside frame.
First picture 2 spring latches in rear canopy frame. I don't want this flying off. Next is G10 tabs going thru canopy frame into fuselage flange so no lateral distortion.
3rd picture is tongue coming out of front canopy. This slides into slot in the front in picture 4. Very secure and easy to get in and out. Will need to glue on canopy and outside frame.
#100
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
4 Posts
Roy,
your doing a fantastic job on the he-162!!
It's all these small details that really make the model come alive. i am really excited to see it flying, and I'm guessing that it's not too far away now
congrats so far. Keenly watching your progress!
dave
your doing a fantastic job on the he-162!!
It's all these small details that really make the model come alive. i am really excited to see it flying, and I'm guessing that it's not too far away now
congrats so far. Keenly watching your progress!
dave