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Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet

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Old 11-28-2017, 05:56 AM
  #2226  
sauntson
 
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They do look good Peter. I see one comment about carbonfibre and your Rx. I know Dave covered this point previously by saying "position the remote receivers as far apart as possible and there should be no issues".

I also remebered seeing a post about loose screws on the wheels and retracts. Having a few minutes free. I gave a few screws a quick tweek with a screwdriver. OMG! I ended up removing and adding some loctite threadlock to 17 of the 18 screws on the wheels and three other screws on the retract bodies. Most of the screws at best were finger tight or worse.

its good to check!
Old 11-28-2017, 05:57 AM
  #2227  
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Originally Posted by Signofinfinity
I like to keep the lenghts after the T, to the user that is equal lenghts. Especially brakes. Always equal lenghts to the T at the rear. Front is not an issue.

That the way I do it for symetrical braking, and deployment.

George.
Thank You
Old 11-28-2017, 06:06 AM
  #2228  
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Thank you Stuart
Yes , you´re right , carbon fiber blocks RX signal , so it´s a good idea to separate satelites ( I have 2 plus one more acting as a wireless switch )( I fly with Jeti DS 16) and spread the antennas , so as they are 90 degrees respet each other , I intend to locate one satellite by the fuel tank, and the other probably by the nose , and one of those antennas pointing 45 degrees downwards and the other 45 degrees upwards.

As a seasoned helicopter pilot , I have learnd the hard way , to check and loctite all screws on new eqipment , so this one won´t be the exception :-) specially afyter reading some threads about main wheels loosing some screws , better safe than sorry.
Old 11-30-2017, 05:13 AM
  #2229  
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Afternoon Gentlemen,

I know this question as been asked before but unless I re-read the whole thread again it will take me ages. so apologies for repeating this.....

Can someone explain the purpose of putting electrical tape around the spring on the retracts? Does it soften the action? or some other purpose

regards
Stuart
Old 11-30-2017, 06:30 AM
  #2230  
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Hi stuart

The reason(as I understand it) is to keep the brake air pressure line from moving during extension and retraction and get caught between gear strut and the wing underside.
Probably I´m worng, but that´s how I see it

Peter
Old 11-30-2017, 07:40 AM
  #2231  
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Main reason is to make main springs more "hard" thus having a model on the ground less side-tilting

I'm using this with my Xcal standard main gears spings since almost 3 years, simple and effective indeed!
Old 11-30-2017, 11:39 AM
  #2232  
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Default Progress

Few More llittle jobs done.

Finally got the courage to drill holes and run airlines. Then glued some 3d printed line tidies and have just started doing the steering close loop wires.
The rear retracts are fitted and all bolts have had some loctite added along with all air lines wired securely.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:03 PM
  #2233  
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As Dennis said it takes some of the leg leverage away from the spring. Makes the model more stable on the ground too. It was developed for the original Flash to legs by a genius ;-),really it was noticed after starting to tape the brake lines to the leg and an improvement noticed.
Old 12-01-2017, 08:19 AM
  #2234  
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Default Update

Today I have moved slowly forward. After gluing the cable tidies into place overnight, today I ran the lines and wirelocked everyone. I think that may be alittle over the top but better safe than sorry.
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Last edited by sauntson; 12-01-2017 at 08:30 AM.
Old 12-02-2017, 04:49 AM
  #2235  
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Afternoon gents, I am trying to find a few more of the Barbed "T" air fittings that are a match for the ones in this kit. I can find BVM ones but they are black and not purple. Any help?

Stuart
Old 12-02-2017, 05:23 AM
  #2236  
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Have a look at Dreamworks, I got some from them before...
Old 12-02-2017, 05:29 PM
  #2237  
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Originally Posted by Dansy
Have a look at Dreamworks, I got some from them before...
Thank you but the postage from the USA to UK is 4x the cost of the item
Old 12-04-2017, 01:09 PM
  #2238  
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Default Air Tank Mount

Well as no one came forward with the files for the air tank mount refered to earlier in this thread. I decided to draw my own.
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Last edited by sauntson; 12-04-2017 at 01:20 PM.
Old 12-04-2017, 02:05 PM
  #2239  
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You going to extend the batteries all the way from the nose to the back of the tank...then the power leads forward to the Rx?
Old 12-04-2017, 02:20 PM
  #2240  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
You going to extend the batteries all the way from the nose to the back of the tank...then the power leads forward to the Rx?
Hi Dave

My plan is to place the sensor switch at the front and so minimise the two battery extension leads. Im sure having power leads as you suggest would not be a wise thing to do.
Hope this makes sense.
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:40 PM
  #2241  
Dave Wilshere
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How much does that assy weigh?
Old 12-04-2017, 02:46 PM
  #2242  
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Originally Posted by Dave Wilshere
How much does that assy weigh?

As it is including all the hardware and 3d Printed parts 196g

I have printed the parts using 20% infil and it looks alot heavier than it is.
Old 12-05-2017, 11:34 AM
  #2243  
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Default The Guru

After having a short conversation with the Guru of all things Xcalibur, Dave Wilshere. I decided to redraw the airtank mount and remove as much extraneous weight as possible. So with this task in hand, here is my MKII AirTank Mount. The original came out at 196grams.

Item Weights

2x Air Tank 66g
Powerbox Sensor Switch 36g
Valve and Pressure Gauge 10g

Hardware Total (112g)

The new total is 154g so I have saved 42g. Doesnt seem alot but as DW explained in the words of that well known supermarket "Every Little Helps!"
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Old 12-05-2017, 12:17 PM
  #2244  
Dave Wilshere
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Nice! :-)
Old 12-05-2017, 03:44 PM
  #2245  
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Default Carbon Covers

I have to say, anyone following this thread and thinking about getting a Ripmax Xcalibur. Stop thinking and get one ordered. I know a great place (motors and Rotors) here in the UK to get one.
It is a very relaxed build. Nothing of note for anyone with the modest of building skills. Mind you if your getting an RC Jet, I guess you have a history in RC or are a missing pensioner from the Hatton Garden Gang!.
I have just finished adding a little bling in the form of Carbon Fibre tubing to the pushrods. N.B wear gloves, 3mm ID carbon tubing is a tight fit. I had to push moderately and ended up with a CF splinter. OUCH!

enjoy
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:03 AM
  #2246  
taz-manian
 
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Absolutely right Stuart
This is an excellent jet model which not only looks great, but flies great as well , and with a wide speed envelope , for what I can see,
DW is "the man" when it comes to Xcalibur .

Peter
Old 12-08-2017, 04:14 AM
  #2247  
taz-manian
 
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I also did the same thing , the pushrods look sooo much nicer with the carbon fiber
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:08 AM
  #2248  
Dave Wilshere
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Originally Posted by taz-manian
I also did the same thing , the pushrods look sooo much nicer with the carbon fiber
Only thing is your horn is going to constantly twist. The horn and linkage should be 90 degrees, so arm above servo and angled back....
Old 12-08-2017, 07:10 AM
  #2249  
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Sorry, my mistake ��
Old 12-08-2017, 07:11 AM
  #2250  
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Default Control Horns

Well, while adding some CF tubes to the pushrods it became apparent I had two missing control horns. A quick call to DW @ Motors and Rotors, I found out that "standard" control horns are not correct. Apparently the ones in the Xcalibur Kit are made from plastic that is not effected by the turbine exhaust temperatures and do not become brittle over time. I was also informed that they are not supplied as an extra or spare.
DW said he would attempt to get some from Ripmax.

well three days later (today) postie delivered me direct from Ripmax a complete set of control horns.
and more surprisingly Free of Charge.

Thats amazing customer services and a clear reason to deal with Ripmax and Motors & Rotors. THANK YOU
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