Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet
#952
Thread Starter
I cannot sell them in the USA, but GJC should have them on their next delivery.
Juan, yes we will takes some sets to JetPower. See you there
Dave
Juan, yes we will takes some sets to JetPower. See you there
Dave
#954
Thread Starter
Was setting up the second Xcalibur yesterday and thought I'd show the Behotec valve set up I use. ATV is reduced down on the servo, this one 40% and 55% A short arm with 11mm radius us used. The servo arm is almost 90 degrees with the shuttle in the gear down position, gear up the valve moves fully away from the servo. Gear down there is the last movement available that activates the brakes.
I mix down elevator to gear, this one 110% is needed for full movement. In the mix on the third screen I make the mix inactive gear up. This JR DMSS XG14E customer uses a different switch for gear, so you need to tick the box next to that switch, not the gear switch.
Dave
Gear down
Gear up
Brakes activated
I mix down elevator to gear, this one 110% is needed for full movement. In the mix on the third screen I make the mix inactive gear up. This JR DMSS XG14E customer uses a different switch for gear, so you need to tick the box next to that switch, not the gear switch.
Dave
Gear down
Gear up
Brakes activated
#955
Thread Starter
Bit of an Xcalibur day at my local club today. Its coming up for a year since the release and I am still really getting a buzz out of flying them.
#958
Thread Starter
Found time over weekend and last night to finish No2 ready for collection this week. Pretty std DW install now as it works!
XG14E DMSS, JR M&R servo pack and P-100Rx fed by MAP bubble trap (best on market!)
XG14E DMSS, JR M&R servo pack and P-100Rx fed by MAP bubble trap (best on market!)
#959
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Kirkcaldy,Scotland, UNITED KINGDOM
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Hi Dave I notice in your pictures that you have a Festo fitting inbetween your bubble trap and the pump. Am I right in assuming that it is a 6mm to 4mm fitting. If so does a 6mm fit tygon then. Sorry new to thisCheers Jim kane
#960
Thread Starter
Jim
It is a 6-4 festo. You Cannot use Tygon in a Festo, its imperial and too soft to get a good seal. I use 6mm clear tubing.
If you want to use Tygon use a barbed brass 6-4 adaptor.
Dave
It is a 6-4 festo. You Cannot use Tygon in a Festo, its imperial and too soft to get a good seal. I use 6mm clear tubing.
If you want to use Tygon use a barbed brass 6-4 adaptor.
Dave
#962
Thread Starter
Billy
The intairco mount is CA's to the tank...I glued the screw heads to the mount to see if anyone thought it was screwed through the tank. It looks better :-)
Dave
The intairco mount is CA's to the tank...I glued the screw heads to the mount to see if anyone thought it was screwed through the tank. It looks better :-)
Dave
#964
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#965
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#968
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^^ so you say use the stock stuff and no issues seen yet ? ( i think the stock units are ok, but i remember the screws not long enough to go through the wing tip and into a piece of plastic. Ill look again )
#972
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Alice Springs, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Steve,
I have a K100 in mine. I can post some pics later tonight if you'd like. I used both supplied hardwood blocks initially but was concerned by the rear of the can being very close to the floor of the flap area. I ended up installing another packing piece of ply (about 4-5mm) to lift the turbine up a bit more for extra clearance. I also painted the floor above the flap with BVM ceramic heat shield paint and it works well. You can't get the turbine into the rear area with the mount on unless you do as Ken did earlier in the thread and cut slots in the back of the fuse to slide the turbine in. I installed my turbine by placing the lower mount in the model then the turbine and used the screw holes that normal secure the two mount halves together as mounting screws for the whole assembly. A pic later will explain better. You want the turbine as far forward as possible to reduce nose weight.
Pic's as promised:
Cheers,
Dave
I have a K100 in mine. I can post some pics later tonight if you'd like. I used both supplied hardwood blocks initially but was concerned by the rear of the can being very close to the floor of the flap area. I ended up installing another packing piece of ply (about 4-5mm) to lift the turbine up a bit more for extra clearance. I also painted the floor above the flap with BVM ceramic heat shield paint and it works well. You can't get the turbine into the rear area with the mount on unless you do as Ken did earlier in the thread and cut slots in the back of the fuse to slide the turbine in. I installed my turbine by placing the lower mount in the model then the turbine and used the screw holes that normal secure the two mount halves together as mounting screws for the whole assembly. A pic later will explain better. You want the turbine as far forward as possible to reduce nose weight.
Pic's as promised:
Cheers,
Dave
Last edited by damagedgoodes; 09-18-2014 at 04:42 AM. Reason: Pictures added