Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet
10-20-2014, 05:01 AM
#1027
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Retract Bolts
Hi
I'd noticed my main retracts were getting quite loose after 20 flights so pulled them to check and noticed the main axle bolts were very loose (Thanks for the tip DW).
My fault for not loctiting every bolt to start with, but if you haven't its worth doing.
There's nowhere for the bolt to go as it can only back out so far but if you have loose retract legs this is the cure. I did the same for the remainder and found all three to be loose.
Not complaining, as its my fault but worth a check.
Lee
I'd noticed my main retracts were getting quite loose after 20 flights so pulled them to check and noticed the main axle bolts were very loose (Thanks for the tip DW).
My fault for not loctiting every bolt to start with, but if you haven't its worth doing.
There's nowhere for the bolt to go as it can only back out so far but if you have loose retract legs this is the cure. I did the same for the remainder and found all three to be loose.
Not complaining, as its my fault but worth a check.
Lee
10-20-2014, 12:14 PM
#1028
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Hi
I'd noticed my main retracts were getting quite loose after 20 flights so pulled them to check and noticed the main axle bolts were very loose (Thanks for the tip DW).
My fault for not loctiting every bolt to start with, but if you haven't its worth doing.
There's nowhere for the bolt to go as it can only back out so far but if you have loose retract legs this is the cure. I did the same for the remainder and found all three to be loose.
Not complaining, as its my fault but worth a check.
Lee
I'd noticed my main retracts were getting quite loose after 20 flights so pulled them to check and noticed the main axle bolts were very loose (Thanks for the tip DW).
My fault for not loctiting every bolt to start with, but if you haven't its worth doing.
There's nowhere for the bolt to go as it can only back out so far but if you have loose retract legs this is the cure. I did the same for the remainder and found all three to be loose.
Not complaining, as its my fault but worth a check.
Lee
10-20-2014, 01:12 PM
#1029
Thread Starter
Any guys outside the UK buying an Xcalibur can email me at [email protected] and I'll email my additional notes sheet I include with models we sell here. It covers this as one of the tips
Dave
Dave
10-21-2014, 03:11 AM
#1030
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Hi Dave
I did buy mine in the UK from a local model shop, nice to see it before you buy on occasions, and I was impressed by the quality. That said the shop obviously doesn't have the connections you have with the XCalibur. I guess in this day and age we expect simple things such as loctite to be used in the construction process of something that could be affected by vibration.
Your notes are great for those people who buy from you, and its great you offer that support, but perhaps those notes could be made more widely available? Or maybe even with the box as an addendum to the instructions (given your involvement with the project).
Even better than that feed the issues back to the retract manufacturers so they can sort the problem at source. I know you have fed a lot back to the manufacturers of the airframe, but doing the same to the retract manufacturer would be good and serve to enhance an excellent jet even further. Not much to ask for a retract set that costs in the region of £550.
Not a pop, just an observation.
Lee
I did buy mine in the UK from a local model shop, nice to see it before you buy on occasions, and I was impressed by the quality. That said the shop obviously doesn't have the connections you have with the XCalibur. I guess in this day and age we expect simple things such as loctite to be used in the construction process of something that could be affected by vibration.
Your notes are great for those people who buy from you, and its great you offer that support, but perhaps those notes could be made more widely available? Or maybe even with the box as an addendum to the instructions (given your involvement with the project).
Even better than that feed the issues back to the retract manufacturers so they can sort the problem at source. I know you have fed a lot back to the manufacturers of the airframe, but doing the same to the retract manufacturer would be good and serve to enhance an excellent jet even further. Not much to ask for a retract set that costs in the region of £550.
Not a pop, just an observation.
Lee
10-21-2014, 08:39 AM
#1031
Thread Starter
Lee
Would have been very happy for you to come here, could have shown you an actual flying model and gone through the kit like I have done several times. The connections come from deciding to be involved, I don't see many of the other dealers selling them flying one constantly...
Most of the tips can be found through this thread, but my "added" element in the package we supply is referred to so the sheet does not relate just to the kit being built. Its an added advantage to people shopping here with me.
Main points are to check the retracts (I also take the wheels off and grease the brake face to stop grabbing and re loctite the retaining screw), add silicon bullets to the steering cables, add flats to the nose pin on both the steering tiller arm and nose oleo. Wrapping the main legs with insulation tape, filing the canopy hatch hooks to remove the sharp edges and stop grabbing. Iron down film before you start and checking the spar length and chamfering the spar ends to help assembly. The other bits are to do with our M&R pack as I said.
Ref the retracts, they are RRP £450 in the UK and great value for money. I always check and disassemble all retracts, except maybe BVM, even German sets at double the cost need doing. I guess you fly helicopters...pre assembled heads and tails, I always stripped to check loctite etc. I wouldn't trust any chinese assembled anything, what ever the end selling price is. I'm rewarded with reliable retracts over hundreds of flights.
Regards
Dave
Would have been very happy for you to come here, could have shown you an actual flying model and gone through the kit like I have done several times. The connections come from deciding to be involved, I don't see many of the other dealers selling them flying one constantly...
Most of the tips can be found through this thread, but my "added" element in the package we supply is referred to so the sheet does not relate just to the kit being built. Its an added advantage to people shopping here with me.
Main points are to check the retracts (I also take the wheels off and grease the brake face to stop grabbing and re loctite the retaining screw), add silicon bullets to the steering cables, add flats to the nose pin on both the steering tiller arm and nose oleo. Wrapping the main legs with insulation tape, filing the canopy hatch hooks to remove the sharp edges and stop grabbing. Iron down film before you start and checking the spar length and chamfering the spar ends to help assembly. The other bits are to do with our M&R pack as I said.
Ref the retracts, they are RRP £450 in the UK and great value for money. I always check and disassemble all retracts, except maybe BVM, even German sets at double the cost need doing. I guess you fly helicopters...pre assembled heads and tails, I always stripped to check loctite etc. I wouldn't trust any chinese assembled anything, what ever the end selling price is. I'm rewarded with reliable retracts over hundreds of flights.
Regards
Dave
10-22-2014, 10:23 PM
#1033
Thread Starter
11-03-2014, 01:25 AM
#1036
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Hi all
Firstly I would like to thank you all for a very informative build thread.
Special thanks to Beachy1968 and Dave W for there extra help.
I have finally completed the new hobby room ( well almost
) and want to start building my first jet.
I have read the total thread several times trying to take in all the information.
It seems that the Behotec C36 v is being used as a replacement for the supplied valve, is this just a personal preference, or is the standard valve quite acceptable?
Greg
Firstly I would like to thank you all for a very informative build thread.
Special thanks to Beachy1968 and Dave W for there extra help.
I have finally completed the new hobby room ( well almost
) and want to start building my first jet.I have read the total thread several times trying to take in all the information.
It seems that the Behotec C36 v is being used as a replacement for the supplied valve, is this just a personal preference, or is the standard valve quite acceptable?
Greg
11-03-2014, 01:56 AM
#1037
Thread Starter
Greg
Have several in the club using the std valves and they are good. Just the Behotec valve makes installation simple with one servo
Dave
Have several in the club using the std valves and they are good. Just the Behotec valve makes installation simple with one servo
Dave
11-04-2014, 01:29 PM
#1038
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Location: brookfieldvictoria, AUSTRALIA
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hi all. xcaliburs are again back in stock in Australia. the three colour schemes are available. be quick as they will go quick
ken
kmrc jets
0408998689
ken
kmrc jets
0408998689
11-17-2014, 11:54 PM
#1041
Thread Starter
Dave
11-23-2014, 11:16 PM
#1043
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Hi Guys
Sorry to be a pain
I seem to be short the connecting rod for the flap
Could anyone advise the length?
Looks to be about 30mm all thread
Greg
Sorry to be a pain
I seem to be short the connecting rod for the flap
Could anyone advise the length?
Looks to be about 30mm all thread
Greg
12-01-2014, 04:50 AM
#1050
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I seen one fly at hamburg this year flys nice and is a well made jet
Last edited by vinnyjet; 12-01-2014 at 04:55 AM.
