Fly Mower

Cheers Dave didn't really fancy sealing anyway!

Fly Mower

Another great afternoon with the Xcalibur!

Just starting to really get the feel of this plane now and I love it…… so much so all my other models (with props on) never seem to get an outing these days.

Back home now with a big grin on my face….. a couple of nice cold beers should end the day perfectly…..!

#Nev are you going for the maiden this weekend...?

Dblex

My Feedback: (81)

Anyone have the blue angel version? I would like to see video of that color scheme!!!

mikedenilin

My Feedback: (67)

Since you are already flying large plane IMAC 35%, I recommend you go with Xcalibur plus with any 120-140 size engine. Cortex would help you a lot in cross wind landing and save wing tips on this jet with with narrow fuselage mounted main gear.

Contact Jose at [email protected] he has the knowledge of Xcalibur with Cortex gyro.

Good luck with your new venture into this addictive sports.

Mike

Nev01

Hi Fly Mower, I've Just got back from Throckmorton JMA, had a good day watching and asking pilots for thier advice. Unfortunately my Xcalibur wasn't ready in time so the maiden shall have to wait a little longer.

I'm pleased that your settling in with and enjoying your Xcalibur, everyone I speak to that has flown one says how well they fly.

Happy landing, Nev.

Si_B

Nev,
Missed you again. Went flying locally with the Xcalibur yesterday and had a great day. Was planning to go to Throckmorton but just not in the mood for the long drive.

Simon

SR117

Are you all using the surface horns provided or using a metal one...if metal where are you getting them from? Just wondering how the horns will go with the heat of the turbine around....if they are okay will use them...

Fly Mower

Good question!

I had the same concern and I actually purchased several different type of alternative horns, from Sullivan Metal horns to the full bolt through type.
In the end all the alternative horns had slight issues, such as not reaching the hinge line, not fixing particularly clean etc.

So, on the advice of Dave and others on this thread I went with the stock horns. And to be honest they are more than fit for purpose, fit well, align with the hinge lines and to date I have no concerns on heat issues affecting the horns at the back end of the plane.

I'll continue to check them on a regular basis (as I do all the linkages etc.) but on balance I’d just fit the stock parts and enjoy……

Cheers,

Lee.

Dave Wilshere

The standard horn is good to use. Ripmax selected the accessories to be fit for purpose. My model has them and in 100+ Flights they still remain flexible and un coloured

Dave

SR117

Thanks again Dave and Lee. Im trying to do this one as budget wise as possible.....meant to be a fun project for general use...Next item on the shopping list is the P100RX pitty there is no RXI yet...but then it might have been too big for the bay anyway.

SR117

will use the standard horns with it etc...

Si_B

I used a Pete Tindal horn on my elevator as I just don't trust plastic horns. Used them on all the other surfaces. Seen plenty flying with the standard horns with no issues, I guess it's down to personal preference.

Simon

Dave Wilshere

impossible to to get a pump inside the 100 front cowl with current pump sizes.
I have no worries about the stock horns, like I said they would not be in the kit if we thought there was a problem. It's not like I hold back when flying mine...

Dave Wilshere

Had a good day at the local club in Aberdeen yesterday, spent the day coaching Paul B with his Xcalibur. After 5 flights he felt much happier to go off on his own.
Good news for European customers the next lot of kit have arrived, so all colours are available again.

Dave Wilshere

http://youtu.be/1Wx2pmtXUR8

just been watching this video from last year of me abusing my Xcalibur, plastic horns are doing just fine!

Si_B

It's just personal preference. I've had a plastic horn fail in the past and don't trust them. Got the plastic horns on all the other surfaces. Enjoying my Xcalibur, goes like stink with the 100 in the tail.

Simon

Dave Wilshere

Plastic is a very general name for a material! :-)

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Alright everyone... I decided on the standard size for a couple reasons:
1) Cost
2) If I got a 140, I'd never take it out when I got a scale bird and leave an empty airframe that costs as much as the turbine, gear/servos/radio/etc... in it.
3) Hoping it will tumble better than the bigger version.

I've got pretty much everything. Jet is coming, have the DreamWorks gear, have a Merlin 100XBL in my hands, have the servos, getting fuel system stuff today, got a JM fuel can and Craftsman air compressor, a Cortex, and on and on and on. Instead of the stock hardware I plan on using ball-links on the servo side and QuikClips on the horn side with H9 Pro-Links in between. I hate metal clevises.

Can anyone tell me what length the servo arms should be so I can get them coming?

Also, will a pair of A123 2500Ah packs fit in the nose-cone?

Cheers!

Thanks!

Dave Wilshere

Ball links just ad a bending moment! The pushrods are all 90 degrees, other than the rudders where you could use a ball link. Clevis are great, in line force, I change a few ball link set up models to Clevis :-)
20mm (3/4") arms are what you need.
While I'm moaning ;-) the stock gear from ripmax is better than any if the DW stuff I have had in my hands!
Yes, as, there is plenty of room in the nose for your batteries.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

I get that they add somewhat of a bending moment, but they are used on 42% scale IMAC ships with 170CC motors beating that crap out of them on 500oz-in servos and seem to do just fine. On the other hand, I've had and seen the spot-welds on several clevises fail and the pin came out. I'll re-assess when the kit gets here and I can go from there... I'll be kinda ecstatic if everything lines up as advertised, but for now call me a skeptic

Understand you like Ripmax gear. Now that I've got a set of DW I can compare it against a local's XCaliber that I just found out existed. GJC said they don't care for most of the stuff that came in the kit... everyone seems to have their own opinion

It's too bad 17mm wouldn't work... Mikado has a fantastic set of double-truss servo arms that keeps everything in line.

These look pretty sweet!

http://www.swbmfg.com/hitec-aluminum...de-for-clevis/

Dave Wilshere

Yep, I fly a lot of CARF petrol models and it does work, though CARF now supply alloy Clevis links to allow inline connections even with metal horns. The fact that it works does not make it right ;-).
Like you say everyone to their own, I'm talking from real experience, I've had 70+Xcalibur's through my hands and flown definitely more than anyone else alive. Although we mostly change the valves for a Behotec single operation retract and brake, it's only because of the ease with a single servo. Very few are flying in England with electronic valves and even less with electric gear. I've flown more than a dozen 100% stock equipment as supplied and I've not had a problem yet!

long as your chosen set up is reliable and you can enjoy your purchase, the rest does not really matter :-)

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

True, true

I'm doing a single BVM servo-operated valve, BVM e-brakes (self-contained pneumatic, not electric) on mine... super simple, brakes not even on the pneumatic system.

I'm pretty excited to tear into this thing... a couple more weeks!

So, 3/4" all around? Flap, ailerons, elevator, and rudder?

Dave Wilshere

OK!

Yes I use nothing but JR and have JR Super Servo arms on everything, they are 20mm radius

Dave

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks man!

I'm sitting here looking at the dreamworks gear and finding some problems. For example, the nipples on the ends of the cylinders are straight and face the main wheels when retracted... there's no room for an airline. A couple other minor things too.

Dave Wilshere

That's why Ripmax have 90 degree nipples ;-)