Ripmax Xcalibur Sports jet
09-22-2015, 01:45 PM
#1585
Thread Starter
?
Its cheap! £1500 for a 90" sports jet with full undercarriage set , air system, valves, 4.5 ltr moulded tank (and in case of my set an MAP bubble trap) {UK sales tax at 20%}
The Torus from Boomerang was £1600 for a bare airframe...
Its cheap! £1500 for a 90" sports jet with full undercarriage set , air system, valves, 4.5 ltr moulded tank (and in case of my set an MAP bubble trap) {UK sales tax at 20%}
The Torus from Boomerang was £1600 for a bare airframe...
09-23-2015, 07:19 AM
#1588
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Distance from main gear to nose gear = 628 mm
Distance from main gear to COG location @ 170 mm = 45 mm
Distance from main gear to COG location @ 160 mm = 55 mm
Distance from main gear to nose bay for extra weight (if needed) = 769 mm
I set mine @ 160 mm and it works great. I had a terrific week-end flying the X (8 flights so far) and yes, it had the tendency to pitch up under full thrust. I did install the booms with the model sitting on the gears though.
Distance from main gear to COG location @ 170 mm = 45 mm
Distance from main gear to COG location @ 160 mm = 55 mm
Distance from main gear to nose bay for extra weight (if needed) = 769 mm
I set mine @ 160 mm and it works great. I had a terrific week-end flying the X (8 flights so far) and yes, it had the tendency to pitch up under full thrust. I did install the booms with the model sitting on the gears though.
Last edited by g_boxwood; 09-23-2015 at 07:21 AM.
09-23-2015, 10:27 PM
#1592
Thread Starter
When you use the balance units you do measure the axle position with the model on the wheels? One of the many reasons I have against it is people inverting the model, measuring the distances legs unloaded, then inverting and standing on the wheels. On the Xcalibur the main wheels then move back quite a bit
09-25-2015, 07:04 AM
#1593
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vlodrop, The Netherlands
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Yes, I measured it with the model on the wheels. I have a MDF board on which I put the models and mark the relevant points: then I measure straight on the board for additional accuracy.
09-25-2015, 07:06 PM
#1594
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Prevost,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Xcaliber EDF version
Is your Xcaliber to be installed with an EDF and if so, could you confirm the brand & size. My intention is to go with a DS94 DIA HST on 14s. I would like to stay away from kerosene...
Any recommendations would be appreciated
Thanks,
Robert
09-26-2015, 12:44 PM
#1596
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Prevost,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dave,
Thanks for the quick reply. How much static thrust are you getting? Do you have a bellmouth intake? As we say, a picture is worth 1000 words, could you share a picture of your EDF installation...
Rob
Thanks for the quick reply. How much static thrust are you getting? Do you have a bellmouth intake? As we say, a picture is worth 1000 words, could you share a picture of your EDF installation...
Rob
09-26-2015, 01:23 PM
#1597
Thread Starter
No idea on an Xcalibur, only used the DS77 HST in a Spark, Xcalibur inlets are a bit small for EDF, you will have to cut most of the inlets away.
if you can supply the fan with air (you will need the inlet ring) you should get the quoted figures.
EDF does not gain until you can add some compression on the outlet.
it will fly on a DS77 for sure
if you can supply the fan with air (you will need the inlet ring) you should get the quoted figures.
EDF does not gain until you can add some compression on the outlet.
it will fly on a DS77 for sure
09-26-2015, 02:49 PM
#1598
My Feedback: (51)
Hello Dave, and All,
Im happy to say in the past 2 days i managed to get 5 flights on the Xcalibur with P-80 and she is a hoot to fly!
pretty fast, lots of power, totally aerobatic (high speed snaps not an issue!), and still floats to a super easy touchdown and wheelie's down the runway like a real floater.
the only thing i still miss is a bit more rudder authority, as even on max throw i have to push on the throttle to hold knife edge.
overall, as an expirienced pilot, im very impressed with this model's flying characteristics. great all around jet, lots of fun to fly.
and P-80 setup works perfect
Im happy to say in the past 2 days i managed to get 5 flights on the Xcalibur with P-80 and she is a hoot to fly!
pretty fast, lots of power, totally aerobatic (high speed snaps not an issue!), and still floats to a super easy touchdown and wheelie's down the runway like a real floater.
the only thing i still miss is a bit more rudder authority, as even on max throw i have to push on the throttle to hold knife edge.
overall, as an expirienced pilot, im very impressed with this model's flying characteristics. great all around jet, lots of fun to fly.
and P-80 setup works perfect
09-26-2015, 02:52 PM
#1599
My Feedback: (25)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cabot,
AR
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok... a few questions if I may... finally starting the build!
The directions are, frankly, useless. Gonna need to pick your brains.
1) There are no screws in the hardware package that seem suitable for securing the retracts... what did you guys use? Self tapping? What length and size?
2) The aft end of the fuel tank mount, tabbed onto the former, seems suspect for inverted flight and/or snaps... anyone reinforce this?
3) What are the button-head screws in the package for?
4) Anyone using better horns? Not interested in being told the stock horns are fine, just what else works.
5) Are people putting the stopper directly into the fiberglass tank? Would it be worth cutting on the tank a little and using the metal tank neck instead?
6) Do the hard points on the control surfaces go all the way through, or are there just plates of plywood on both sides?
Thank a lot!
The directions are, frankly, useless. Gonna need to pick your brains.
1) There are no screws in the hardware package that seem suitable for securing the retracts... what did you guys use? Self tapping? What length and size?
2) The aft end of the fuel tank mount, tabbed onto the former, seems suspect for inverted flight and/or snaps... anyone reinforce this?
3) What are the button-head screws in the package for?
4) Anyone using better horns? Not interested in being told the stock horns are fine, just what else works.
5) Are people putting the stopper directly into the fiberglass tank? Would it be worth cutting on the tank a little and using the metal tank neck instead?
6) Do the hard points on the control surfaces go all the way through, or are there just plates of plywood on both sides?
Thank a lot!
09-26-2015, 03:03 PM
#1600
My Feedback: (51)
Ok... a few questions if I may... finally starting the build!
The directions are, frankly, useless. Gonna need to pick your brains.
1) There are no screws in the hardware package that seem suitable for securing the retracts... what did you guys use? Self tapping? What length and size?
2) The aft end of the fuel tank mount, tabbed onto the former, seems suspect for inverted flight and/or snaps... anyone reinforce this?
3) What are the button-head screws in the package for?
4) Anyone using better horns? Not interested in being told the stock horns are fine, just what else works.
5) Are people putting the stopper directly into the fiberglass tank? Would it be worth cutting on the tank a little and using the metal tank neck instead?
6) Do the hard points on the control surfaces go all the way through, or are there just plates of plywood on both sides?
Thank a lot!
The directions are, frankly, useless. Gonna need to pick your brains.
1) There are no screws in the hardware package that seem suitable for securing the retracts... what did you guys use? Self tapping? What length and size?
2) The aft end of the fuel tank mount, tabbed onto the former, seems suspect for inverted flight and/or snaps... anyone reinforce this?
3) What are the button-head screws in the package for?
4) Anyone using better horns? Not interested in being told the stock horns are fine, just what else works.
5) Are people putting the stopper directly into the fiberglass tank? Would it be worth cutting on the tank a little and using the metal tank neck instead?
6) Do the hard points on the control surfaces go all the way through, or are there just plates of plywood on both sides?
Thank a lot!
2. after my tank mount got loose (had a small fuel leak on the maiden which softened the mount), i added a couple of plywood stoppers above the tank for added safety.
4. i used horns fron hobbyking which are cone shaped aluminum horns with 3mm bolts.
5. direct works fine.