Dave Wilshere

Its only 25mm on mine. I took the edge off the lower inlet edge to allow the FOD to clear.

I have a 3400 3s Life on ECU and 2 x 2200 2sLi-Po on the PB Sensor switch, I can do 12+ flights on a charge

Dave

SR117

Fod was my issue....nothing extra in weight other than electric gear...I did put artificial weight in for header / air trap...ie I added 175g weight in area, I'll retry but actual fill header...prefer to move engine forward... Thanks

Aussie1

This one is exactly the same setup that I have, and is a pretty typical price, at least for Australia.

http://www.rctrader.com/category/342...-XCALIBUR.html

paultzr

Thanks Aussie1 that gives me an idea with current exchange rate that comes out at £1,350

SR117

Dave, flew mine today.. Same issue as Shaker1... Ie requires lots of down elevator ...I suspect our units are from the same batch...as I got mine about mid year 2015...I live in the same state but only flew today. Will check my tail plane notch as well.. We resorted to washers on engine and Tailplane washers to try to level..just saw this post...betting this is my issue as well. Other than that flew nicely...thanks for the info. Overall still nice to fly...just need to fix the climbing issue..thanks for all your help in previous posts

Vettster

Sorry to say.. But the problem sounds the same as the Sprint jet. We shimmed the leading edge and raised the front of the engine and the problem was solved. You could fly inverted, hands off if you like.

My Xcalibur build has been put on hold till my engine gets back to me.

Dave Wilshere

Its not the turbine angle. The fins are high enough to separate the eflux and the angle good and all the Xcalibur's I have flown (lots)
It must be the tail seating. Can't see the fins being out the way they are made, so the tailplane fin sockets. A quick test might be a 3mm spacer matching the top of the fin.

Dave

Will get Ripmax to talk to the factory and ensure its sorted.

emilsanto

My Feedback: (39)

just wondering why they charge 160.00 more for the gray military scheme than the other colors. 795.00
doesn't seem like any more work or harder to paint.? anyone know

Fly Mower

Just doing a bit of a winter health check on my Xcalibur. Mid way through I lifted out the tank and the bottom looks like this.............

I filter everything several times! Do I have fungus problem or is the normal for Kero tanks after a 6 months or so?

And how the hell do I clean it..?

Thanks,

Lee.

Dave Wilshere

Looks like you have a major fungi problem! You using Jet A1?

Fly Mower

No, just heating Kero!

Any ideas Dave how to address and should I use A1 rather than the heating Kero stuff.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

There's additive that can be purchased for diesel, might work for kero as well...been a while since I did the search..

Si_B

I use the home base paraffin. Just been out and checked mine as I have not flown since October. No mould or discolouring. It's not as cheap as kerosene though.

Looks like you are going to have to pull everything to clean or replace. What is you fuel caddy like? Is the mould just confined to the model?

Good job you didn't try to start the turbine or that would be heading back for a strip down.

Simon

cmjets

Why you use a filter like clunk ? How do you fill the tank ? Through the UAT ?

Fly Mower

The main caddy is clean as is the secondary caddy I use to fill the main caddy...! (Taxi tank is okay also).

I use a Mr Funnel when decanting the raw Kero to get any excess water out and to be honest I have never actually filtered out much (if any) water.

The fuel can't be anymore than 12 weeks old and the model had its last flight end November.

I couldn't see any slime or green stuff that's often associated with Kerosene Algae (according to a quick Google) and the stuff in the tank does appear to be more like dirt but I have no idea how it got in there if hasn't grown over the last few weeks.

The only difference between the model and the other storage tanks is the model is vented and the vent is left open!

Looks like this is going to be a pain in the ass of a job.... But, at least I found it on the ground.

Fly Mower

I fill via the UAT - Its a GBR CAT so the fill / drain doesn't go via the filter so hopefully that's still clean! And I use a filtered clunk based on the recommendations in this thread. I assume everybody else is doing fine....

Si_B

If its just confined to your tank, then something must have got in via the vent. I leave my vent plugged in after a session, mainly to stop any fuel dripping in my shed where the models are stored.

It might be a pain, but I'd scrap the filter element ( I think you can buy those separately if its one of Dave's filter clunks) and for peace of mind, I'd probably renew my fuel lines to make sure no contamination is left.

How strange that it only effected the tank. Do you leave much fuel in?

Simon

Dave Wilshere

No sure of the chemistry, but it will be a reaction with something. I have only used Paraffin for the 16 years I've flown my own turbines. Barrettine is the brand I use, when desperate I go to homebase, which is where I started buying it. Now I buy 100 gallons at a time and managed to open an account with the refinery which saves some money.
I have models that are 10 years old and I have never cleaned a filter or changed a felt clunk.
Maybe you should change your hopper tank...

Nev01

What is best practice for winter storage, fuel tanks full or empty, vent plugged or unplugged? I'm going to have to check mine tonight as its not flown since its maiden in October.

Nev.

Fly Mower

Had a chat with a friend today who owns a boat chandlers; seems algae in Diesel / Kero etc. is a common problem (with boats anyway)

Apparently its due to condensation forming in the tank and then the water failing back into the kero and settling on the bottom of the tank. Algae then starts to develop in the boundary layer between the water and the Kero. Seems the little algae spores need the water to kick into life..! And it only takes a small amount of water to kick it off.

His advice for storage on boats etc. is to keep the tank full (so the air gap for condensation is minimized).

All my other tanks and fuel caddies are fine its only on the tank on the model that has the problem and it was half filled and left open to the atmosphere via an open vent (its also stored in a un-heated brick building so the temperature swings a lot).

I'm going to rip it all out and treat the parts with anti-algae mixture he gave me. I'll fit new filter / tubes and try again.

You live and learn I guess.....

Ps. Dave do you sell just the felt bit for your clunks...?

Dave Wilshere

I store all my models with (normally) end of flight fuel open and never had an issue. Models are in the warehouse, so mixed temps heating on off and summer/winter-but not damp.

Yes, we have the felts

izzy

the last 3 i built had 3mm ply shims under the front bolts of the stab - this cured the pitch up issue

SR117

Thanks Izzy.....I'll try that next flight. I've returned the engine and cog to where they started. Have now put 3mm washers on top of rudders for tail plane...at front ......if good will make a shim for it for both sides.

would have done by now but lost a wheel on take off last time..didn't grind the wheel axle groove enough ...... Stupid me...but did a error free dead stick belly landing on grass...can't believe it...no damage at all. It landed on the booms nice and slow...thanks to my mate who talked me through it....

Flaps2012

Wow. I have not logged on to RCU since 2004!! Anyway, I had the Xcalibur bug put in ear last fall when I contacted Global Jet Club about getting into a Velox V2. Work got busy, and I dismissed the idea of getting a jet until about a week ago. I stumbled on this thread and spent the last few days reading. It looks to me like this is the way to go for a first timer on turbines. Global Jet Club has the BA scheme available. I think it looks pretty sharp as a blue and yellow sports scheme (no stickers) as Dave pointed out, but I worry a little about keeping orientation in less than ideal skies. Is anyone flying one of these and have any input?

Much appreciated!

-Jeremy

Dave Wilshere

I've built 6 Xcalibur's and none needed packers...? I just make sure the fin sits on the tail seat as machined. These builds come out of different batches, so would think the basic is OK

Jeremy

I don't believe you see colour...its shape. On the = shaped aircraft then shade comes next. I've flown all the colours in different light and the Xcalibur shape with the over hung tail is easy to orientate.

Dave