BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

Just finished a project & my clear was close to perfect, but I wanted to try sanding with 1500, then 2000 & polishing/buffing for my first time. Not sure what I did wrong, but it's pretty dull now & extremely difficult to remove the "3M Rubbing Compound" & "Hand Glaze". Do I need a machine to buff it out? How do I fix this back to a luster shine?
Any help appreciated, Thank you

dbsonic

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What clear did you use?

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

SEM Promax Enamel

dbsonic

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That's a 1k clear... If fully cured/dry it should be fine to try and buff out. See what some of the other pros on here think but from 2000 grit I usually go to a buffing compound before going to polishing glaze.
Initially polishing glaze can be hard to get off but it does come off with elbow grease. You could try a Meguiars mirror glaze #82 on a buffing wheel which is a light to medium cut. I've used it on 1k clear before the hand glaze and final wax.

dbsonic

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Oh, but be careful with a buffing wheel on models/fiberglass. You can easily burn the underlaying finish if you use too high rpm/stay in one location too long.

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

Here is a pic of the near impossible to remove film. I think I added too much, & maybe I wasn't suppose to let it dry? IDK, but tell me if this sounds crazy; Buy a small rotary buffing machine, them add more rubbing compound with the machine & hope I can dissolve it all into my clear, then add hand glaze via the buffing machine & hope the shine comes back.
I think a machine is the key, but only guessing, & its only 3/32 wood glassed, so Im worried about damaging it.
Thanks

FalconWings

My Feedback: (57)

I use a 6" buffing wheel, not a rotary dremel like, as you will very likely burn it. What you have there seems removable with a 6" wheel and 3M Perfect it.

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

how long did you let the clear cure? Enamel will need at least a week before you can do anything with it.

patf

My Feedback: (4)

check pawn shops for the buffer. would 3m's "finesse" line work on that?

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

Thanks for the replies guys! I didn't think the structure would be able to take my craftsman orbiter, so I attempted to do it by hand, & probably put on too much, or tried to do to big an area at a time. The buffer took care of it & with lots of work & patience it looks like glass again

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Cool. Let us know how this kind of paint system works out with maybe some pics when you are done. I don't have access to the pro equipment and proper breathing equipment and am always interested in non-catalyzed/non-iso paint systems.

BlueBus320

My Feedback: (57)

Sure, I took my Boomerang Sprint's top deck to my local auto paint supply store and had them match the yellow paint & put it into a rattle can, then purchased the clear in a rattle can also. I wanted urethane, but was told it's not available in rattle cans. I'm painting in my apartment in NY while the wife & child are at the in laws, so a little pressed for time on my projects. Here's a pic of it before and after buffing. The clear is SEM Promax, it's pretty cheap, about $5. If I was painting a big money composite though, I would just pay for a premium urethane.
hope this helps, Jay

sysiek

My Feedback: (176)

I'm using 3m polishing auto body paste and electric buffer with 3m sponge white and gray ,set to low rpm and do the rotation in out direction.