BVM F-100D build thread.
#30
Been a long time since I remembering seeing all the parts in my kit!
How long until you say "uncle!!!!"
deflated yet? Or up for the challenge?
It took me a year part time just to install, rig, flight metal, rivet plumb, paint, graphics, nomenclature, detail, make ready! building it is only half the fun!!
Scott
How long until you say "uncle!!!!"
deflated yet? Or up for the challenge?
It took me a year part time just to install, rig, flight metal, rivet plumb, paint, graphics, nomenclature, detail, make ready! building it is only half the fun!!
Scott
And please keep posting, (so you can inspire me to finish mine).
Rog
#31
My Feedback: (1)
Awesome kit, awesome jet. Built three of them (sorry Jack all fishing lures)
Mine is still in the box but the glass and gel coat should be cured by now. The wing is a great deal of the work, I felt when that was done you are about 2/3rds done on the build. Finish, now that is another deal if you do a lure scheme. Look forward to this thread
Mine is still in the box but the glass and gel coat should be cured by now. The wing is a great deal of the work, I felt when that was done you are about 2/3rds done on the build. Finish, now that is another deal if you do a lure scheme. Look forward to this thread
#37
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
BVM says that they have fit the slat rails at the factory for you. The two inboard rails move QUITE smoothly. The outboard slat rail is carbon fiber and is the most problematic of the three on both wings.
I spent 3 hours on each slat sanding, fitting, tach gluing, repeat to try to get that outer carbon fiber rail to be as smooth as the two inboard rails. If the slat moves out of sink of the rails (especially) the outer rail, it will bind and won't move.
The slat servos will always have to move in unison to insure smooth, non binding movement.
On BV's website they said that they can just tilt the wing down and the slats will move. Although I can satisfy myself that synchronized servos will be able to move them without any problems through the operating travel range (3/4" of an inch), it isn't smooth enough for me to just tilt the wing down and have the slat move.
I spent 3 hours on each slat sanding, fitting, tach gluing, repeat to try to get that outer carbon fiber rail to be as smooth as the two inboard rails. If the slat moves out of sink of the rails (especially) the outer rail, it will bind and won't move.
The slat servos will always have to move in unison to insure smooth, non binding movement.
On BV's website they said that they can just tilt the wing down and the slats will move. Although I can satisfy myself that synchronized servos will be able to move them without any problems through the operating travel range (3/4" of an inch), it isn't smooth enough for me to just tilt the wing down and have the slat move.
#39
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Oh and, this is the best discovery yet!!
Standard sized servos will fit in the slat servo pockets! I bought 4 high torque digital slim wing servos to fit thinking I wouldn't have enough room. As I've seen that the slats need to have nearly perfect synchronous movement to have the slats operate smoothly without any binding, I would've preffered non digital servos. BV recommends servos that have at least 60 oz of torque in here.
Any of the F-100 guys have similar experiences setting up their slats? Jack? Phil? Dan?
Standard sized servos will fit in the slat servo pockets! I bought 4 high torque digital slim wing servos to fit thinking I wouldn't have enough room. As I've seen that the slats need to have nearly perfect synchronous movement to have the slats operate smoothly without any binding, I would've preffered non digital servos. BV recommends servos that have at least 60 oz of torque in here.
Any of the F-100 guys have similar experiences setting up their slats? Jack? Phil? Dan?
#41
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Niedergesteln, SWITZERLAND
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You kidding.
80 hours i need only for my self made gear doors (without install at the fuselage.
80 hours i need only for my self made gear doors (without install at the fuselage.
#42
My Feedback: (6)
Ravill,
Here is my way to get the carbon parts to slide smoothly in the pockets. One of the tricks was told to me by Scott Harris, but then i discovered another added benefit during the build of my F-86 with the fowler flaps.
The trick to getting the carbon fiber to really move smoothly in the pockets is to take and seal the edges that run on the top and bottom of the pocket with thin CA. Then what you do is take a piece of 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper and you sand those edges until it polishes the CA like glass. After that you go out and buy your self a small bottle of graphite powder like what the lock smiths use for sticky locks and you put some of that into the pockets and run the slats back and forth by hand unit you feel them run smooth. Then you can take and vacuum the excess powder out of the pockets and you will be golden for the rest of the life of the plane.
Here is my way to get the carbon parts to slide smoothly in the pockets. One of the tricks was told to me by Scott Harris, but then i discovered another added benefit during the build of my F-86 with the fowler flaps.
The trick to getting the carbon fiber to really move smoothly in the pockets is to take and seal the edges that run on the top and bottom of the pocket with thin CA. Then what you do is take a piece of 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper and you sand those edges until it polishes the CA like glass. After that you go out and buy your self a small bottle of graphite powder like what the lock smiths use for sticky locks and you put some of that into the pockets and run the slats back and forth by hand unit you feel them run smooth. Then you can take and vacuum the excess powder out of the pockets and you will be golden for the rest of the life of the plane.
#43
My Feedback: (6)
Ravill i do own 2 of these exceptionally well designed and engineered planes.
As for the servos on the slats in the sky blazer one i am running all JR HV servos and the slats have the small thin aileron type servos on them and i have had zero issues with them for 3 years now.
The Camouflage one is all digital JR servos and the slats are the same servos just not HV same thing zero issues over one season so far.
As for the servos on the slats in the sky blazer one i am running all JR HV servos and the slats have the small thin aileron type servos on them and i have had zero issues with them for 3 years now.
The Camouflage one is all digital JR servos and the slats are the same servos just not HV same thing zero issues over one season so far.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 12-09-2013 at 08:15 AM.
#44
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Ravill,
Here is my way to get the carbon parts to slide smoothly in the pockets. One of the tricks was told to me by Scott Harris, but then i discovered another added benefit during the build of my F-86 with the fowler flaps.
The trick to getting the carbon fiber to really move smoothly in the pockets is to take and seal the edges that run on the top and bottom of the pocket with thin CA. Then what you do is take a piece of 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper and you sand those edges until it polishes the CA like glass. After that you go out and buy your self a small bottle of graphite powder like what the lock smiths use for sticky locks and you put some of that into the pockets and run the slats back and forth by hand unit you feel them run smooth. Then you can take and vacuum the excess powder out of the pockets and you will be golden for the rest of the life of the plane.
Here is my way to get the carbon parts to slide smoothly in the pockets. One of the tricks was told to me by Scott Harris, but then i discovered another added benefit during the build of my F-86 with the fowler flaps.
The trick to getting the carbon fiber to really move smoothly in the pockets is to take and seal the edges that run on the top and bottom of the pocket with thin CA. Then what you do is take a piece of 2500 grit wet/dry sand paper and you sand those edges until it polishes the CA like glass. After that you go out and buy your self a small bottle of graphite powder like what the lock smiths use for sticky locks and you put some of that into the pockets and run the slats back and forth by hand unit you feel them run smooth. Then you can take and vacuum the excess powder out of the pockets and you will be golden for the rest of the life of the plane.
And I LOVE that skyblazers color scheme!!! Its the one I'm going for as well.
#47
My Feedback: (67)
check out Doug's work...he is currently painting a bvm f100 in your desired scheme. Always easier the second time.
https://www.facebook.com/Oversprayer
#50
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Thanks Dan. I'll keep that in mind if I go with the T-birds, but I'm loving that Skyblazers scheme.
Ok, so I'm getting settled in the new place and I got a few hours to work on the Hun yesterday.
And I've decided to put the flap servos in the wing with control horns hysoled into the flaps them selves. Flame-suit on!
I measured and looked at the plans, then did it again, and then one more time for good measure. Then... I cut into the wing! YIKES! But there is a GREAT pocket to put the flap servos in there!
I hysoled the hardwood mounting blocks over night, so I'll take more pics tonight.
Ok, so I'm getting settled in the new place and I got a few hours to work on the Hun yesterday.
And I've decided to put the flap servos in the wing with control horns hysoled into the flaps them selves. Flame-suit on!
I measured and looked at the plans, then did it again, and then one more time for good measure. Then... I cut into the wing! YIKES! But there is a GREAT pocket to put the flap servos in there!
I hysoled the hardwood mounting blocks over night, so I'll take more pics tonight.