BVM F-100D build thread.
04-03-2014, 09:54 AM
#126
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Raffy, that doesnt look too bad to have to build up. With the old Vipers you had to carve the vertical fin to the right shape out of a chunk of balsa. Now that was some serious sanding!
04-24-2014, 10:33 AM
#132
Thanks for all the help with the painting everyone! That's why I love RCU!
After, TONS of trial painting, sanding, masking, spraying, checking for reactions, testing different masking tape types, dry time, over spray, different colors, different spray cans, clears, gloss, satin... etc...
I had a few bad reactions (tape residue is awful stuff and reacts with EVERYTHING, even after trying a wet sand e.g., Lacquer clear reacts with some paints (gloss but not metallics))
The best tape for these paints, I found, was green 3m painter's tape and blue 3m "home depot" tape. Frog tape left alot of residue and the yellow 3m automotive tape was VERY, almost too scary sticky.
I have come to a great solution for my "go" at painting the hun.
Rustoleum "Painter's choice" makes all the paints from the primer to the clear. I have tried all possible combinations, that I can think of, and the best order of painting with "painter's choice" has been as follows:
1. Wash off jet with tide detergent (but this is still not enough, I still had poor paint adhesion with just washing)
2. Sand entire jet with 400 sand paper (dry sanding was just easier for me)
3. Light to moderate primer with "painter's choice" primer
4. Re-sand with 400 and fix any defects, repeat until satisfied.
5. Paint gloss colors first and mask off what will be the metallic part of the jet. (Masking tape left NO residue on gloss colors, but occasionally I got tape residue on the metallic)
6. Take off masking tape after 30 min or so.
7. Wait 24 hours before masking next color.
8. Light coat of clear at tape seams
Here is the Hun ready to have the wood formers sealed for washing and fuel proofing.
[/URL
After, TONS of trial painting, sanding, masking, spraying, checking for reactions, testing different masking tape types, dry time, over spray, different colors, different spray cans, clears, gloss, satin... etc...
I had a few bad reactions (tape residue is awful stuff and reacts with EVERYTHING, even after trying a wet sand e.g., Lacquer clear reacts with some paints (gloss but not metallics))
The best tape for these paints, I found, was green 3m painter's tape and blue 3m "home depot" tape. Frog tape left alot of residue and the yellow 3m automotive tape was VERY, almost too scary sticky.
I have come to a great solution for my "go" at painting the hun.
Rustoleum "Painter's choice" makes all the paints from the primer to the clear. I have tried all possible combinations, that I can think of, and the best order of painting with "painter's choice" has been as follows:
1. Wash off jet with tide detergent (but this is still not enough, I still had poor paint adhesion with just washing)
2. Sand entire jet with 400 sand paper (dry sanding was just easier for me)
3. Light to moderate primer with "painter's choice" primer
4. Re-sand with 400 and fix any defects, repeat until satisfied.
5. Paint gloss colors first and mask off what will be the metallic part of the jet. (Masking tape left NO residue on gloss colors, but occasionally I got tape residue on the metallic)
6. Take off masking tape after 30 min or so.
7. Wait 24 hours before masking next color.
8. Light coat of clear at tape seams
Here is the Hun ready to have the wood formers sealed for washing and fuel proofing.
[/URL
04-24-2014, 10:39 AM
#133
Oh, I almost forgot!
Easytiger emailed me and suggested I try to heat up the paint cans in warm/hot water.
That really made the paint come out of the cans a lot longer and more consistent than room temp cans!
Thanks ET.
ET still lurks around here!
Ahhhh, I miss those ET vs "The World" threads.....
Easytiger emailed me and suggested I try to heat up the paint cans in warm/hot water.
That really made the paint come out of the cans a lot longer and more consistent than room temp cans!
Thanks ET.
ET still lurks around here!
Ahhhh, I miss those ET vs "The World" threads.....
Last edited by ravill; 04-24-2014 at 10:44 AM.
04-24-2014, 11:49 AM
#135
Thanks for all the help with the painting everyone! That's why I love RCU!
After, TONS of trial painting, sanding, masking, spraying, checking for reactions, testing different masking tape types, dry time, over spray, different colors, different spray cans, clears, gloss, satin... etc...
I had a few bad reactions (tape residue is awful stuff and reacts with EVERYTHING, even after trying a wet sand e.g., Lacquer clear reacts with some paints (gloss but not metallics))
The best tape for these paints, I found, was green 3m painter's tape and blue 3m "home depot" tape. Frog tape left alot of residue and the yellow 3m automotive tape was VERY, almost too scary sticky.
I have come to a great solution for my "go" at painting the hun.
Rustoleum "Painter's choice" makes all the paints from the primer to the clear. I have tried all possible combinations, that I can think of, and the best order of painting with "painter's choice" has been as follows:
1. Wash off jet with tide detergent (but this is still not enough, I still had poor paint adhesion with just washing)
2. Sand entire jet with 400 sand paper (dry sanding was just easier for me)
3. Light to moderate primer with "painter's choice" primer
4. Re-sand with 400 and fix any defects, repeat until satisfied.
5. Paint gloss colors first and mask off what will be the metallic part of the jet. (Masking tape left NO residue on gloss colors, but occasionally I got tape residue on the metallic)
6. Take off masking tape after 30 min or so.
7. Wait 24 hours before masking next color.
8. Light coat of clear at tape seams
Here is the Hun ready to have the wood formers sealed for washing and fuel proofing.
[/URL
After, TONS of trial painting, sanding, masking, spraying, checking for reactions, testing different masking tape types, dry time, over spray, different colors, different spray cans, clears, gloss, satin... etc...
I had a few bad reactions (tape residue is awful stuff and reacts with EVERYTHING, even after trying a wet sand e.g., Lacquer clear reacts with some paints (gloss but not metallics))
The best tape for these paints, I found, was green 3m painter's tape and blue 3m "home depot" tape. Frog tape left alot of residue and the yellow 3m automotive tape was VERY, almost too scary sticky.
I have come to a great solution for my "go" at painting the hun.
Rustoleum "Painter's choice" makes all the paints from the primer to the clear. I have tried all possible combinations, that I can think of, and the best order of painting with "painter's choice" has been as follows:
1. Wash off jet with tide detergent (but this is still not enough, I still had poor paint adhesion with just washing)
2. Sand entire jet with 400 sand paper (dry sanding was just easier for me)
3. Light to moderate primer with "painter's choice" primer
4. Re-sand with 400 and fix any defects, repeat until satisfied.
5. Paint gloss colors first and mask off what will be the metallic part of the jet. (Masking tape left NO residue on gloss colors, but occasionally I got tape residue on the metallic)
6. Take off masking tape after 30 min or so.
7. Wait 24 hours before masking next color.
8. Light coat of clear at tape seams
Here is the Hun ready to have the wood formers sealed for washing and fuel proofing.
[/URL
600 or even 800
04-25-2014, 04:54 AM
#136
I use the candle warmers for this, warming them up increases the pressure inside and really really helps with making the spray paint mist better.
Oh, I almost forgot!
Easytiger emailed me and suggested I try to heat up the paint cans in warm/hot water.
That really made the paint come out of the cans a lot longer and more consistent than room temp cans!
Thanks ET.
ET still lurks around here!
Ahhhh, I miss those ET vs "The World" threads.....
Easytiger emailed me and suggested I try to heat up the paint cans in warm/hot water.
That really made the paint come out of the cans a lot longer and more consistent than room temp cans!
Thanks ET.
ET still lurks around here!
Ahhhh, I miss those ET vs "The World" threads.....
04-25-2014, 08:30 AM
#137
I actually used 220 grit on the under surface of my slats.
I LOVE the way it turned out. In my practice with all the different paints, I was using 80 grit -> Primer -> 220 grit (for quickness, I was testing alot of combinations! Ha!) and I really like how the surface looked after only 220, so I figured 400 would be EVEN better.
Here are my slats. Again, I love the way it came out with just 220.
I LOVE the way it turned out. In my practice with all the different paints, I was using 80 grit -> Primer -> 220 grit (for quickness, I was testing alot of combinations! Ha!) and I really like how the surface looked after only 220, so I figured 400 would be EVEN better.
Here are my slats. Again, I love the way it came out with just 220.
04-25-2014, 02:58 PM
#144
Ahhh. This is what I like about BVM. They provide detailed instructions and pictures, all the parts are sent with the kit, the parts are labeled, they all fit together pefectly, clean edges, quality materials, tested design, etc, etc.
Nothing to go wrong! A nice, normal build.
Nothing to go wrong! A nice, normal build.
04-25-2014, 05:47 PM
#147
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Ahhh. This is what I like about BVM. They provide detailed instructions and pictures, all the parts are sent with the kit, the parts are labeled, they all fit together pefectly, clean edges, quality materials, tested design, etc, etc.
Nothing to go wrong! A nice, normal build.
Nothing to go wrong! A nice, normal build.
05-06-2014, 12:46 PM
#148
Nick bro, I've seen your work and I am in NO league even close to how great you build, fit and finish!!
But I'm giving it a go! Ha! LOL! That falcon looks great!!
If my F-100 comes out looking 1/2 that good, I'll be stoked outta my skull!
Thanks for all the kind words guys!
I just acquired a new little helper, so I've been busy keeping him in line!
I put up my paint booth in my back yard.
I sanded (with 220) the fuse and painted the primer. I let it tack dry and then brought the fuse in the house to dry. I must say I was IMPRESSED with ZERO dust on the primer application. I will use a small paint booth from now on! Thanks for the suggestion Jack!
As serendipity would have it, I was glad I brought the fuse inside as we had some strong onshore winds overnight and my paint boot was destroyed! Ack!
I will rebuild a paint booth in my garage.
But I'm giving it a go! Ha! LOL! That falcon looks great!!
If my F-100 comes out looking 1/2 that good, I'll be stoked outta my skull!
Thanks for all the kind words guys!
I just acquired a new little helper, so I've been busy keeping him in line!
I put up my paint booth in my back yard.
I sanded (with 220) the fuse and painted the primer. I let it tack dry and then brought the fuse in the house to dry. I must say I was IMPRESSED with ZERO dust on the primer application. I will use a small paint booth from now on! Thanks for the suggestion Jack!
As serendipity would have it, I was glad I brought the fuse inside as we had some strong onshore winds overnight and my paint boot was destroyed! Ack!
I will rebuild a paint booth in my garage.
