Its Coming!!!! Skymaster 1/5 F-16 Arf Plus Pro
04-17-2016, 01:02 AM
#751
the prototype of F-16 1/5 over hundred flights more from the pass years, powered by K-210 ,
https://www.facebook.com/anton.lin.58/videos/10209110998829030/ https://www.facebook.com/anton.lin.58/videos/10209110995548948/
https://www.facebook.com/anton.lin.58/videos/10209110998829030/ https://www.facebook.com/anton.lin.58/videos/10209110995548948/
05-19-2016, 06:57 AM
#753
06-01-2016, 05:45 PM
#755
My Feedback: (20)
Heraldo,
How did you keep your nose gear door closed. I saw another one at FIF in WIlson, NC that had the same problem. I spoke to the owner and it was fitted with a larger and stronger nose door cylinder. The CG was said to be 285mm.
Gary
How did you keep your nose gear door closed. I saw another one at FIF in WIlson, NC that had the same problem. I spoke to the owner and it was fitted with a larger and stronger nose door cylinder. The CG was said to be 285mm.
Gary
06-02-2016, 04:29 AM
#756
I didn't solve yet... I try to put some magnetic to help the door stay close and even with 115psi.. it open.
I think my problem is the high preasure inside the fuselage as I don't have Bypass because the P300, when you orden the F16 for 300N it came without bypass.
I think a larger cylinder will solve.. but the problem is to fit in the nose.
I think my problem is the high preasure inside the fuselage as I don't have Bypass because the P300, when you orden the F16 for 300N it came without bypass.
I think a larger cylinder will solve.. but the problem is to fit in the nose.
06-02-2016, 01:05 PM
#758
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Plantation,
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a bypass or even a partial bypass will fix this problem. It happens when you are high speed, either in a dive or level flight and the power gets reduced.
The air pushes out of the nose door. where the cylinder is mounted makes it the easiest door to open. Path of least resistance. Also, try to cut a few more vents in the fuse to let this air out. that will help as well..
The air pushes out of the nose door. where the cylinder is mounted makes it the easiest door to open. Path of least resistance. Also, try to cut a few more vents in the fuse to let this air out. that will help as well..
06-03-2016, 03:32 AM
#759
My Feedback: (20)
I am building mine with a B300F and no bypass. I am concerned about keeping my doors closed also.
The a 1/5 F-16 I saw fly at FIF that had a 220 and a full bypass and he was still having problems keeping the doors closes. He reported the main gear doors opening at high speed and causing a negative G tuck when they opened. I pull tested them when on the bench and they were also very "soft" at 100 psi.
Not sure how to solve this yet.
Gary
The a 1/5 F-16 I saw fly at FIF that had a 220 and a full bypass and he was still having problems keeping the doors closes. He reported the main gear doors opening at high speed and causing a negative G tuck when they opened. I pull tested them when on the bench and they were also very "soft" at 100 psi.
Not sure how to solve this yet.
Gary
06-04-2016, 07:15 AM
#760
It's interesting, Barry has had the same issue with the nose gear door, he has a bypass and 210, I believe he tried a magnet with no luck, not sure if he solved it yet. The prototype does not seem to have this issue....
Last edited by bri6672; 06-04-2016 at 07:56 AM.
06-04-2016, 01:12 PM
#762
My Feedback: (20)
I'm beginning to think about a locking mechanism something like a small air cylinder on the door that drives it's arm into a hole in the forward bulkhead to lock the door shut. It would need a three way sequencer to first pull the lock, open the door, and drop the gear, then reverse the process. Not sure what sequencer would work.
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 06-05-2016 at 04:47 AM.
06-04-2016, 09:20 PM
#763
I have been making lots of progress the past few weeks!! I can feel it getting close!! I finally plumbed all the whole air system tonight and ran into a problem.. My nose gear door cylinder is leaking badly and seems to have been ground down to fit, I then went to unscrew the small screw holding it in and found it to be stripped out.... So I had to use some needle nose to slowly back it out and the screw snapped in half.... Also one of the air gauges is stuck at zero and will not register..So hopefully John or Anton can step it and get me a replacement cylinder, the aluminum top mount and screw and a new gauge so I can get this sorted ASAP!! Here are a few pics including some of my progress:
Cylinder ground down and leaking
Broken screw and mount needed to replace
Air valves
Fill valves
Scale Gun mod
Cylinder ground down and leaking
Broken screw and mount needed to replace
Air valves
Fill valves
Scale Gun mod
06-05-2016, 03:58 AM
#764
Join Date: Jun 2008
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with the 300, or even a mammoth, with the bypass, make sure the intake tube is lined with carbon fiber strips to increase the strength. The suction is so great that it will suck closed. With the proper bypass, a few extra holes in the fuse and the magnet, i really feel that has to fix this problem. My old Jet Legend 1/6 had this problem and we fired it with the bypass. The 1/5 has a bigger inlet there fore more air is rushing in with a low power setting. I had a mammoth in my 1/6 scale so it was sucking up most of the air getting ramed in thru the intake, Not the 1/5 scale is being flown with the same engine but its a bigger frame with more air coming in. Maybe that why the bypass is not enough on the 1/5 . So try, bypass, magnet on door in close position, and a few air vents can in the fuse. That should fix the problem.
06-05-2016, 09:14 AM
#765
My Feedback: (20)
I have looked at fuse holes or vents. The F-16 with its mid wing round fuse does not have any way to hide or make the vent holes look good in any way. If it had a flat bottom you could do it.
Gary
Gary
06-05-2016, 02:06 PM
#766
I try to install a magnet in the front door and didn't work... i try a second magnet in the door.. but the problem that open only with 110psi.. so i remove because my concern is that will open in flight.
06-05-2016, 05:57 PM
#769
My Feedback: (86)
Michael is correct on the pressure build up. I did some extensive reinforcing of the intake extensions to the bypass. Very rigid. Wondering if that could have something to do with the pressure...not enough beefing up of the bypass extensions. They have been known to collapse at full throttle with the bigger engines and need to be well reinforced.
Rex
06-05-2016, 06:59 PM
#771
So the gun is made from 1/16 ply wood and about 1/8 brass tubing. I cut 2 disks, drilled out the holes for the tubes then pressed them in, tacked it together with CA and panted it black. I tacked it in place with ca the. Secured with hysol. I used a piece of flight skin and painted it black and glued it over the back side to give it a compartment look. Pretty simple, the hardest part was cutting out the hole in the fuselage and sanding it in to shape the shot it with some touch up paint.
06-18-2016, 03:42 PM
#775
Great question, I have no clue other than the breakage.. Not sure if it's the actual cylinder or the female ball joint part.... Seems to be low quality material and it brakes right at the end of the cylinder rod... Can't really tell if the cylinder rod is female or male..
Last edited by bri6672; 06-18-2016 at 03:46 PM.