Drogue chute help
11-19-2013, 04:19 AM
#2
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Since it`s a calot, almost any method works. But if you fold it like making it half the size every time, and then wrap the lines around it, you should be fine.
I just hold the center with one hand a run the other hand down to make a sausage, then z-fold it, you will also be fine but this method makes it bigger.
Store the chute unfolded, hanging free.
I just hold the center with one hand a run the other hand down to make a sausage, then z-fold it, you will also be fine but this method makes it bigger.
Store the chute unfolded, hanging free.
11-19-2013, 04:38 AM
#3
here are the most experts when it comes to chute folding 
http://www.estesrockets.com/media/in...6_FREEFALL.pdf
…my main concern was always in case they deploy during flight so i always use a release system : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...-jets-how.html
So one servo to control a valve or electronic valve and another servo to release.
PowerBox allows me to use only one channel and a triple switch for all factions ….by using the muching exits and playing with the endpoints and centers.
O=stand by
1=shute out
2=shute complete release
my 2c
http://www.estesrockets.com/media/in...6_FREEFALL.pdf…my main concern was always in case they deploy during flight so i always use a release system : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...-jets-how.html
So one servo to control a valve or electronic valve and another servo to release.
PowerBox allows me to use only one channel and a triple switch for all factions ….by using the muching exits and playing with the endpoints and centers.
O=stand by
1=shute out
2=shute complete release
my 2c
11-19-2013, 05:13 AM
#4
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I tried several ways on my F-100 until I found what worked. Dan Gill at details4scale referred me to a page on his site about how to fold it but I can’t find that page for you now.
Basically keep folding it in half a few times until you have a thin cone shape. Then lay the lines along the chute and then roll it up tight with the lines inside, just a small amount of line left outside to roll once around it to keep it tight and then enough length to reach the attachment point.
When I first did it I kept all the line outside the rolled up chute and wrapped it around a few times to keep the roll tight to stop it expanding and jamming in the chute box. The problem with that is that by the time it has unrolled and so the chute is able to open, you have stopped anyway. When you see models going down the runway with a tight ball of chute bumping along the ground behind them it is usually because it has been wrapped around too many times. Just do one or two wraps around the chute to keep it tight, and I also found that packing it immediately before each flight helped so it didn’t have a long time to expand and stick in the chute box.
I use a servo operated cable release, arranged so that the mechanism is in the open “released” position all flight, that way if the worst happens and the chute gets out it will just fall away and won’t open and try and stop the model. When I operate the switch to open the chute, the release mechanism closes and grabs the cable before the chute has a chance to pull on it.
Basically keep folding it in half a few times until you have a thin cone shape. Then lay the lines along the chute and then roll it up tight with the lines inside, just a small amount of line left outside to roll once around it to keep it tight and then enough length to reach the attachment point.
When I first did it I kept all the line outside the rolled up chute and wrapped it around a few times to keep the roll tight to stop it expanding and jamming in the chute box. The problem with that is that by the time it has unrolled and so the chute is able to open, you have stopped anyway. When you see models going down the runway with a tight ball of chute bumping along the ground behind them it is usually because it has been wrapped around too many times. Just do one or two wraps around the chute to keep it tight, and I also found that packing it immediately before each flight helped so it didn’t have a long time to expand and stick in the chute box.
I use a servo operated cable release, arranged so that the mechanism is in the open “released” position all flight, that way if the worst happens and the chute gets out it will just fall away and won’t open and try and stop the model. When I operate the switch to open the chute, the release mechanism closes and grabs the cable before the chute has a chance to pull on it.
11-19-2013, 08:05 AM
#6
Alex,
This may be of use.
Regards,
Alistair
This may be of use.
Regards,
Alistair
SM 1/6th F-16 Chute System Instructions
The chute system is very simple to install and use. There are few components and require only one modification to the rear fin base to install. 
Begin by taping along the seam where shown in the photo.Make the first part of the cut with a dremel cut-off wheel or a diamond cutter wheel. Stop when you reach the radius at the bottom of the cut. 
Make the final cut using a fine tooth razor saw.
This photo shows the proper angle to insert the rear fin base spreader plate.
Use your finger to pull the plate into position. There should be approx 3/32" gap between the face of the plate and the rear edge of the glass. See below finished photo below. 
Run a bead of Aeropoxy around the spreader plate and rear inside edge of fuse fin base glass. Allow epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. After epoxy has cured, using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a hole just to the left of the brass rudder pivot rod tube centered at the same height as the large hole in the spreader plate. This hole is for the eject cylinder airline to be feed forward thru the fin base. After drilling the airline hole, position the chute box in place onto the fin base and tape in place. There are 2 sets of holes visible on the inside of the chute box when looking forward into the box. The inner set is to mount the chute eject piston, the out set is to mount the chute box to the spreader plate.Making the drill bit extension:Using a 1/16" drill bit and a scrap piece of 1/4" dowel, drill a hole into the end of the dowel using the 1/16" bit. Be sure to drill the hole centered in the end of the dowel and at least 1/2" deep. Be sure the hole is as straight as possible in the end of the dowel as well. Once the hole has been drilled, remove the bit from the drill and place it into the hole in the end of the dowel (cutting side out). Tape the bit in place using some electrical tape. Stretch the tape so that it firmly grips the bit. You can CA the bit in place if you like and it's an extra bit. Place the opposite end of the dowel into the drill and drill thru the two outer holes thru the spreader plate using the makeshift extension drill bit. Install two flanged #2X5/8" screws to secure the chute box to the fin base. You may also glue the chute box to the fin base as there is nothing forward of the chute box that would ever require it's removal.Attach on end of the black airline to the nipple fitting on the back of the eject cylinder. Working thru the large hole in the center of the chute box and spreader plate, feed the opposite end of the black airline thru the 3/16" hole on the left side of the brass pivot tube. Reach inside the fuse and pull the black airline forward as you position the eject cylinder mounting plate against the forward chute box mounting plate. Mount the eject cylinder with the "U" groove facing up using two #2X5/8 flanged screws. The eject cylinder requires only the one airline to eject the chute. When the button valve is off, the chute eject piston can be reset by hand.Route the black airline forward and connect it to center nipple on the button valve. Connect the air bottle side of the system to the nipple on the button valve closest to the black button on the valve. The lower (bottom straight port) is not used for the chute system setup. Use a "T" fitting and fill valve (not supplied) between the air bottle and the push button valve for filling the air bottle. Mount the bottle and valve in a convenient location in the forward fuse. You do not need to fill the bottle beyond 100 psi to eject the chute. 70-80 psi is more than ample pressure. There is an optional release unit (servo driven) that enables the pilot to release the chute from the aircraft after landing. Otherwise, simply make a block out of hard wood, screw a small eyelet into the rear end of the block and epoxy the block into the lower forward part of the chute box with the eyelet facing aft. The swivel supplied with the chute will then attach to the block. The optional release unit is available separately on the SM F-16 store page. Click here for details.Our Autochute II unit not only deploys the chute automatically for you upon landing, it can also be set to release the chute when the flaps are raised after landing.Please give us a call if you need any further assistance with your SM F-16 chute system installation or operation.208-233-4721 M-F 9-6 MST USAor e-mail at: [email protected]
Begin by taping along the seam where shown in the photo.Make the first part of the cut with a dremel cut-off wheel or a diamond cutter wheel. Stop when you reach the radius at the bottom of the cut. Make the final cut using a fine tooth razor saw. This photo shows the proper angle to insert the rear fin base spreader plate. Use your finger to pull the plate into position. There should be approx 3/32" gap between the face of the plate and the rear edge of the glass. See below finished photo below. Run a bead of Aeropoxy around the spreader plate and rear inside edge of fuse fin base glass. Allow epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. After epoxy has cured, using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a hole just to the left of the brass rudder pivot rod tube centered at the same height as the large hole in the spreader plate. This hole is for the eject cylinder airline to be feed forward thru the fin base. After drilling the airline hole, position the chute box in place onto the fin base and tape in place. There are 2 sets of holes visible on the inside of the chute box when looking forward into the box. The inner set is to mount the chute eject piston, the out set is to mount the chute box to the spreader plate.Making the drill bit extension:Using a 1/16" drill bit and a scrap piece of 1/4" dowel, drill a hole into the end of the dowel using the 1/16" bit. Be sure to drill the hole centered in the end of the dowel and at least 1/2" deep. Be sure the hole is as straight as possible in the end of the dowel as well. Once the hole has been drilled, remove the bit from the drill and place it into the hole in the end of the dowel (cutting side out). Tape the bit in place using some electrical tape. Stretch the tape so that it firmly grips the bit. You can CA the bit in place if you like and it's an extra bit. Place the opposite end of the dowel into the drill and drill thru the two outer holes thru the spreader plate using the makeshift extension drill bit. Install two flanged #2X5/8" screws to secure the chute box to the fin base. You may also glue the chute box to the fin base as there is nothing forward of the chute box that would ever require it's removal.Attach on end of the black airline to the nipple fitting on the back of the eject cylinder. Working thru the large hole in the center of the chute box and spreader plate, feed the opposite end of the black airline thru the 3/16" hole on the left side of the brass pivot tube. Reach inside the fuse and pull the black airline forward as you position the eject cylinder mounting plate against the forward chute box mounting plate. Mount the eject cylinder with the "U" groove facing up using two #2X5/8 flanged screws. The eject cylinder requires only the one airline to eject the chute. When the button valve is off, the chute eject piston can be reset by hand.Route the black airline forward and connect it to center nipple on the button valve. Connect the air bottle side of the system to the nipple on the button valve closest to the black button on the valve. The lower (bottom straight port) is not used for the chute system setup. Use a "T" fitting and fill valve (not supplied) between the air bottle and the push button valve for filling the air bottle. Mount the bottle and valve in a convenient location in the forward fuse. You do not need to fill the bottle beyond 100 psi to eject the chute. 70-80 psi is more than ample pressure. There is an optional release unit (servo driven) that enables the pilot to release the chute from the aircraft after landing. Otherwise, simply make a block out of hard wood, screw a small eyelet into the rear end of the block and epoxy the block into the lower forward part of the chute box with the eyelet facing aft. The swivel supplied with the chute will then attach to the block. The optional release unit is available separately on the SM F-16 store page. Click here for details.Our Autochute II unit not only deploys the chute automatically for you upon landing, it can also be set to release the chute when the flaps are raised after landing.Please give us a call if you need any further assistance with your SM F-16 chute system installation or operation.208-233-4721 M-F 9-6 MST USAor e-mail at: [email protected] 
11-20-2013, 03:39 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info guys!
I'm in the process of designing the F104 chute release and door. Great idea Harry I'll be incorporating that.
Cheers, Alex
The Little Jet Company
I'm in the process of designing the F104 chute release and door. Great idea Harry I'll be incorporating that.
Cheers, Alex
The Little Jet Company
