Skymaster F-104 Assembly USAF style
11-21-2013, 11:10 PM
#1
Skymaster F-104 Assembly USAF style
work thus far.
Functional pitot tube for Futaba telemetry.
Removable nose equipment tray.
Last edited by 757Driver; 11-24-2013 at 10:31 PM.
11-22-2013, 07:20 AM
#3
This will have the long rudder as I don't believe a aerodynamic and structural change like that is reasonably feasible.
Furthermore the USAF flew the G in the 69th TFTS out of Nellis, AFB.
2578 Starfighters were built and 1122 of those were G's.
That at said the A and C models with their short tails were better looking IMO.
Furthermore the USAF flew the G in the 69th TFTS out of Nellis, AFB.
2578 Starfighters were built and 1122 of those were G's.
That at said the A and C models with their short tails were better looking IMO.
11-22-2013, 07:46 AM
#5
I got the rudder linkages done and was not happy with the typical poor thread quality we get from worn out Chinese die's. I pitched the stock linkage for t he rudder and used 4.5" Ti turnbuckles. I did retain the stock gold clevis as it was the only thing that would fit inside the tail. The threads on those parts seemed to be good.
A word of warning, if you have never built a Skymaster, the instructions have left me wanting more. There is also not a bill of materials list so you might know what parts are missing. It's all guesswork. His is the primary reason I wanted to start this thread. To share information about this really neat model and what I'm doing to get her put together. Whole there are several flying I've not seen much here on RCU.
I hope others will post information on their builds here as well.
Of note the manual says 180mm for the rudder linkages. It should be 150mm with a 7950tg, splines forward. I'm going to make a custom double sided, aluminum servo horn for this as the resolution needs to be improved beyond what a stock horn can provide.
A word of warning, if you have never built a Skymaster, the instructions have left me wanting more. There is also not a bill of materials list so you might know what parts are missing. It's all guesswork. His is the primary reason I wanted to start this thread. To share information about this really neat model and what I'm doing to get her put together. Whole there are several flying I've not seen much here on RCU.
I hope others will post information on their builds here as well.
Of note the manual says 180mm for the rudder linkages. It should be 150mm with a 7950tg, splines forward. I'm going to make a custom double sided, aluminum servo horn for this as the resolution needs to be improved beyond what a stock horn can provide.
It's going to be stunning.
11-22-2013, 09:51 AM
#9
Did you make that pitot tube yourself? Have you tested it yet? I only ask as I was looking to get one made for my client as he's ordered full telemetry for his model.
Cheers
Cheers
11-22-2013, 11:58 AM
#10
Join Date: Dec 2001
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The perfect F-104 scheme Jason...I replicated 13243 when I did my Avonds version because of it's natural metal finish (the only finish for a Starfighter) and the black tip tanks which aid visibility and orientation very well in flight!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
Cheers,
Dick
England
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
Cheers,
Dick
England
Last edited by CJ2002; 11-22-2013 at 12:01 PM.
11-24-2013, 10:48 PM
#11
I love my calendar too. Great little Thai food joint in Las Vegas I used to frequent had some of their waitresses pictured. I miss that place.
Hi Alex, the pitot is functional and I made it with the help of my friend Dennis (DeltaMike) as he has done several in the past on other airplanes. Pick out your favorite knitting needle and sand just a bit off the tip to flatten it so you can drill it to size. Cut the back end off and fill with hysol or Qpoxy. Once the qpoxy is dry run a counter sink bit I to the end. This will center the drill bit you will use next and provide a nice place for more glue. Next, find some brass tube that will fit snugly into the rubber tube from the airspeed sensor. Drill on size, insert the brass tube about a half inch and leave a half inch sticking out. Be sure to clean and scuff all the surfaces. Set the brass tube with medium zap or more qpoxy. I will post a good pic in the morning. I can also make a video if you like. Setting the needle in the nose is another interesting bit.
Got some more more done and needed to remove a bit more of the radome equipment tray to make room for the pitot tube hose.
Hi Alex, the pitot is functional and I made it with the help of my friend Dennis (DeltaMike) as he has done several in the past on other airplanes. Pick out your favorite knitting needle and sand just a bit off the tip to flatten it so you can drill it to size. Cut the back end off and fill with hysol or Qpoxy. Once the qpoxy is dry run a counter sink bit I to the end. This will center the drill bit you will use next and provide a nice place for more glue. Next, find some brass tube that will fit snugly into the rubber tube from the airspeed sensor. Drill on size, insert the brass tube about a half inch and leave a half inch sticking out. Be sure to clean and scuff all the surfaces. Set the brass tube with medium zap or more qpoxy. I will post a good pic in the morning. I can also make a video if you like. Setting the needle in the nose is another interesting bit.
Got some more more done and needed to remove a bit more of the radome equipment tray to make room for the pitot tube hose.
11-24-2013, 10:55 PM
#12
Thanks Dick. That's a sweet looking Avonds. Must have had many hours in that one. I always wanted one. Still do!
I'm still not sure how to properly attach these pics but it's a PITA only doing it one by one.
I'm still not sure how to properly attach these pics but it's a PITA only doing it one by one.
Last edited by 757Driver; 11-25-2013 at 12:14 PM.
11-25-2013, 06:17 PM
#14
I had to redo some of the SM glass work as it sucked. Lots of voids and wrinkles plus a strip of glass that was torn from the foam. QC was sick the day mine got packed up I guess. 😝
After sanding everything out and removing the bad parts I re glassed with 3oz and then added a nice bit of 6oz CF. Finished with peel ply so the drogue system can be hysoled in when it arrives.
After sanding everything out and removing the bad parts I re glassed with 3oz and then added a nice bit of 6oz CF. Finished with peel ply so the drogue system can be hysoled in when it arrives.
11-30-2013, 09:38 PM
#15
Hello gents I was doing research today on the drag chute colors for the F-104 and apparently several different flavors were offered. I found a nice forum with some very knowledgeable individuals who posted some great pictures on page 14 enjoy the link.
http://forum.keypublishing.com/showt...uestion/page14
Yet another forum revealed the parts manual for the 104 and I have recently purchased a flight manual for the 104G. You have to register with the forum before it will let you download the 1100 page parts manual. It's worth the trouble.
The manual is excellent for providing detail on structures. Interesting note was the discovery of a leading edge flap locking mechanism. I'm going to add a similar device or have considered changing the servo linkage so that the linkage is in line with the servo output when the le.flap is in the up position as well as the landing position. This would provide maximum mechanical advantage for the servo.
Thoughts?
link to the free parts manual.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/oth...ess-24887.html
http://forum.keypublishing.com/showt...uestion/page14
Yet another forum revealed the parts manual for the 104 and I have recently purchased a flight manual for the 104G. You have to register with the forum before it will let you download the 1100 page parts manual. It's worth the trouble.
The manual is excellent for providing detail on structures. Interesting note was the discovery of a leading edge flap locking mechanism. I'm going to add a similar device or have considered changing the servo linkage so that the linkage is in line with the servo output when the le.flap is in the up position as well as the landing position. This would provide maximum mechanical advantage for the servo.
Thoughts?
link to the free parts manual.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/oth...ess-24887.html
Last edited by 757Driver; 12-07-2013 at 06:28 AM.
12-01-2013, 01:26 AM
#16
Jason,
Great project you have going here, rest assured I'm following your thread. My first thought regarding the L/E flap lock is (did you receive or have you seen the Skymaster addendum) or are you looking to do the L/E locks in a different manner. There is also this video showing horn and hinge mod in case you haven't seen it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s44yy...ature=youtu.be The method seems to be very strong. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXeTO...ature=youtu.be
Ronnie
Great project you have going here, rest assured I'm following your thread. My first thought regarding the L/E flap lock is (did you receive or have you seen the Skymaster addendum) or are you looking to do the L/E locks in a different manner. There is also this video showing horn and hinge mod in case you haven't seen it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s44yy...ature=youtu.be The method seems to be very strong. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXeTO...ature=youtu.be
Ronnie
Last edited by Countryboy; 12-01-2013 at 01:50 AM. Reason: added video links
12-01-2013, 06:03 AM
#17
Hi CB! You still have your Phantom? I've been loving mine. Over 40 flights and no significant MX issues.
Yes, this bird has the improved hinging and I got the travel limiting root slot that I will install. I'm proposing a lock that would basically drive a pin or rod into the root, near the leading edge after the le. Flap is in the up position.
The SM root addendum will not eliminate a high speed deployment and that, I believe, is another part of the issue.
I thought Ali did a beautiful job BTW.
Yes, this bird has the improved hinging and I got the travel limiting root slot that I will install. I'm proposing a lock that would basically drive a pin or rod into the root, near the leading edge after the le. Flap is in the up position.
The SM root addendum will not eliminate a high speed deployment and that, I believe, is another part of the issue.
I thought Ali did a beautiful job BTW.
12-05-2013, 11:49 AM
#22
Honestly no I did not. Do you have any real numbers on it? Installed weight and actual uncorrected thrust at a given density altitude?
I also hate the idea of having to deal with Germany when I need service. Eric and Jet Central have been very good to me as has Barry with KingTech Turbines.
I also hate the idea of having to deal with Germany when I need service. Eric and Jet Central have been very good to me as has Barry with KingTech Turbines.
12-05-2013, 11:18 PM
#23
I don't have any real numbers on the JB-220, but I believe it was published in RCJI. 50+ lbs of blow in a 160 size can. My 104 is shipping any day now, so I'll need to decide on an engine soon. I've heard of other people using P-200s and Mammoths. Hopefully the plane takes the added weight without noticeably increasing wing loading.
12-06-2013, 02:22 AM
#24
Hi Dubd, I'm confident a 180 will fly her quite well. The ONLY reason I wanted more thrust is to accomadate my operation from our 400' runway. It needs to accelerate like Firefox. 
Now you have me very interested in the 220. I hope you will let me test it if you go that route. We have run a lot of engines on our rig and it's interesting to see just how much atmospheric conditions will affect thrust production. Some turbine MFG's claim big numbers but just don't come close. Others are spot on and some are better than claimed. It's nice having our test stand. We also use it to tune the ECU if we have one that needs attention. I want to get a bigger scale as the one I have only goes up to 55 lbs accurately. Never thought I'd need more than 45.
Now you have me very interested in the 220. I hope you will let me test it if you go that route. We have run a lot of engines on our rig and it's interesting to see just how much atmospheric conditions will affect thrust production. Some turbine MFG's claim big numbers but just don't come close. Others are spot on and some are better than claimed. It's nice having our test stand. We also use it to tune the ECU if we have one that needs attention. I want to get a bigger scale as the one I have only goes up to 55 lbs accurately. Never thought I'd need more than 45.
Last edited by 757Driver; 12-07-2013 at 06:32 AM.