ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

I know this has been discussed in many forums but I am looking for a few ideas for paint. I have been an Omni/PPG user for my bigger projects but am interested in trying a simpler (one step) and perhaps less toxic option on my next project.

I will use my minijet fro application. I have used modelmaster for several trim pieces but it is easily wiped away after exposure to fuel. Most of the spots I painted would never have fuel (nose, top of rudder) but I wondered what others are doing to make this fuel proof (kero)? I did clear some of it with modelmaster clear but it changes the base coat slightly in color.

I appreciate any advice,
Dave

grbaker

My Feedback: (29)

My YA F-15 (pics in my gallery) is painted entirely with Model Master and then cleared with LusterKote (spelling ?) flat clear from a rattle can. I don't think I would try to paint anything larger with this paint, though. The clear is fuel proof.

The Turbinator (also in my gallery) was painted with Latex paint and cleared with Klass Kote flat clear. The main thing with latex is patience.....patience.........patience.

tobba

For me Ralle's paints are fantastic at www.tailormadedecals.com. They are reasonably priced, he will mix any colour you're after and will ship small amounts. He also has a pile of literature available about his process that is priceless.

They are 1pk base coat paints with a 1:1 paint/thinner ratio... so simple. Then a 2pk or 1pk clear on top.

And to top it off he is about as nice a chap as you could ever wish to deal with!

FalconWings

My Feedback: (57)

By one step, you mean single stage (no clear), or works right out of the bottle?

David

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

I was thinking one step _ paint that would not require clear coat.

FalconWings

My Feedback: (57)

Try PPG Concept DCC, it's probably as glossy as you can get without clear. Ive used it with very good results. Very user friendly and excellent coverage.

I've also airbrushed it with a small Pasche pen, and it is just as good.

David

Vettster

Rustoleum has the best rattle can paint on the market IMO. You can Decanter it and use it in you air gun. Would give a much better finish if spayed with an airgun vrs rattle can. It can also be sanded and polished 48hr later. Also their Clear coat does not seem to change in tint. Stays crystal clear.

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Dave,
I just refurbished a vintage BVM Viper to match my Bandit using testors enamels through my airbrush. All paint, no stickers, etc.
For the clear I used spraymax 2k gloss clear in a rattle can. Its a 2-part clear that mixes inside the can when you activate it. http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1
Took 2 cans to spray the entire model in multiple light coats. Not sure you'd want to paint anything larger than the viper in this method. My preference would be PPG clear through my gun but I wanted something quick and simple in my garage.

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

By one step (pk as he says), he means its air-dry, i.e., no activator. They still need to be clear coated.

The DCC paints mentioned above are single stage, i.e., they don't need a clear coat and are also gloss on their own. They are less work, as you only have to paint once, but as a truly amateur painter, I've had better results with basecoat - clear coat. The basecoat is *easy* to work with and you can fix all of your mistake easily. The clear is a PIA, but you can buff it if you screw it up...

Bob

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Wont all clears change the basecoat color or look to some degree? beyond ambering I mean. Getting a good match to some existing color with a paint you will be clear coating has always been difficult to me.

oliveDrab

So how do you get it out of the spray can into the little glass air gun jar? Or can you buy Rustoleum in a can with no spray nozzle?

shepp

I have decanted rattle can paint by spraying it through a straw into the airbrush bottle. It can be messy but works . I have also punched a small ( very small) hole in the top of the can to release propellant and then enlarge to pour out paint. This can get really messy especially if you punch too big of a hole ( how do it know that lol) either way you can get a lot better finish through the airbrush. Luster-kote is really nice to paint this way.
hope this helps

shepp

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks guys,
i have to admit that despite the 53 pieces to paint that base/clear has worked well for me, just a bit of work. I did the last plane in one long weekend.
My old school way, coached by a master in MN, was buying a few base colors and mixing myself for the right sprayed and dried color. Then base coat, graphics and dusting the clear on. I will probably do it again that way, I just would like a good fresh air source while doing all of that too. If I am lucky I might be able to use a car paint shop booth again...

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

The PPG clear I have used does tend to brighten the colors if its gloss, but I have not noticed *any* ambering in either the PPG gloss or Flex N' Flat clear I have used. The white basecoat always comes out just as white under the clear as before its applied - in fact, the clear on top of the white is hard to see when you are spraying it...

Bob

Vettster

Invert the can. Press button till all pressure is gone. Lay can on its side and punch a hole at the top and bottom of the can. Pick up the can flat and level with the holes at the top and poor into an empty jam jar or any jar with a wide mouth. To transfer to your airbrush.. just use a turkey baster to extract what you need.

Not sure if you can buy it in a can, but it would need to be thinned if you did.

RSO

Dave, Google "Hobbyair" for a good fresh air system. They offer a fresh air source with choices of half mask, full mask, or full hood options, as well as full body suits, and hose lengths. Several vendors offer their equipment.

Jerry

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Jerry!
Building another Hog!

rcand

I agree. I have done touch ups with DCC on a plane that was clear coated with PPG 2021 and the gloss was a match.

mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

Is DCC catalyzed (with isocyanates)?

Harley Condra

My Feedback: (4)

Matt,
DCC is catalyzed. I use nothing but DCC with DX61 hardener.
Here's the literature for it: http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdccp.pdf

Here's the MSDS: http://msdssearchengine.com/local_msds.php?id=43140

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Can anybody verify that if you shoot Concept DCC without hardner that in time it will eventually "cure" and have a gloss to it?

SPLIT S

DCC will never cure without the catalyst. It will air dry as the solvent evaporates but will never cure - huge difference. No durability, no chemical resistance and limited gloss retention.

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

agree, cure was not the right term. Reason I ask is Omni (no catalyst) will dry quite nicely, holds up well but of course its not gloss or has very little gloss characteristic.

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

I'm picking nits here, but Omni is a paint line, not a specific paint type. Omni is PPG's mid-price (and mid-quality) paint line. You can get base coats, clear coats, or single stage paints (catalyzed) in the Omni line.

Concept is the name of the single stage paint in the PPG Delron line, which is their top-of-the-mark paint line. I have used both Delron base coats/clear coats, Concept single stage, and Omni base coat/clear coats. I'm a seriously amateur painter, and I've found that Omni paints are perfectly sufficient for my meager skills, so I've taken to using that as a more economical alternative to the Delron line. I've also tried the Dupont Nason mid-line paints (single stage), but I liked the Omni better.

As I said above, for me, base coat/clear coat is easier to work with. Only the final clear coat uses the really nasty stuff and only the final clear coat needs real care to get right - and even that can have the mistakes sanded and buffed out. Plus, you can shoot the clear over the decals too, which improves their look and durability.

Bob

shepp

For what its worth, I'm preparing to paint a large Futura this spring and I wanted to try some "Concept" that I had on hand. The paint is over 10 years old as was the DU4 hardner. It thinned fine and sprayed through an airbrush perfect. I was really fooled as I though at least the hardener would be bad. Not so, it is still good. I have a nearly a quart of vermillion and over a quart of black. So I think I have saved a lot of money. lol. Probably will purchase new hardener.
Shepp