DUCMOZ

Hey Guys, sorry I am making a comment but from what I have learned, there always is a problem when degrees are given instead of actual measurement by MM or inches etc.. The reason is that normally the manual does not tell that say X degree from what. Center line of the wing? The bottom of the wing or the top of the wing and because of this, normally everyone dials too much flap. Therefore, it would be to your benefit to start with lower amount of flap and then gradually increase if it is needed or to be safe, go with the measurement from the bottom.

Behzad

PaulD

My Feedback: (39)

Behzad,

i have a degree meter that clamps to the control surface. After you set the neutral point (or full up position for flaps) you can zero the meter and then just set the degrees of throw using endpoints. (Assuming your linkage set up is close) The nice feature here is that the degree readings you read on the meter are the same at any point on the control surface instead of having to figure out a reference point to measure from. I suspect this method is the rationale Seb used for the measurements but it sure would be nice if they provided both.

PaulD

edit: here's the degree meter I have. The only issue I have is the pads could be "grippyer"

http://www.airwildpilotshop.com/More...product&id=542

mungrelv8ute

No degrees, just mm = simple

DUCMOZ

Hi Paul

thanks. I know, I have those from the pattern days. I had this discussion with one of the best jet manufacturers a few years ago and I am sure that you have noticed that most these days give the distance for the ease of set-up.

Have a a good day.

Behzad

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I am almost done with the plane. Here are detailed pics of the thrust tube and thrust vector install. The ball links that grumania supplied are defective. The balls pop out. If you are a US customer, you will be receiving replacements. If you are overseas, I suggest swapping out different ones. I ordered 5 different types of ball links and ended up with the ones in the pics, they fit well, little slop, allow full range of motion with the thrust vector and were a whopping $2.99 each! Here is the link: http://store.rc4wd.com/Truck-Specs-R...M3_p_1833.html

Access for the lower thrust vector servo is tough, I suggest putting as much of it together as possible before placing it in the plane. If you have a long driver, you can access the mounting bolts through the wing openings.

The thrust tube is adjustable, I kept it as long as possible to keep the turbine as far forward as I could.

There were no supplied tabs to mount the thrust tube to the rear former. I went to home depot, bought a piece of aluminum angle and made little brackets. They are tied to the former with a 3mm bolt. The threads on the pushrod shafts are 3mm, most of us are used to 4-40. Everything was secured with red loctite and a lock washer, no luck nuts, afraid the nylon insert would melt.

Not sure about other brands of turbines, but the mounting holes in the side of the grumania pipe and the blocks supplied lined the king tech turbine up perfectly. No shims or adjustments! It is hard to tell how far away I am from the start of the tube with such a big bell mouth, but I will figure out a way to measure it before permanently mounting the turbine.

I have the gear in, will post pics later today. All I have left is mounting the turbine and plugging everything in!

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Hey Mike, those rod ends you linked to are showing as out of stock and different than the red ones you suggested I pick up;

http://store.rc4wd.com/search.asp?ke...=21&search.y=8

I note there is a slight difference in the design of the two, won't the red ones work?

Thanks!

Jason W M

My Feedback: (6)

Hello Zeeb,

We have a few sets of the rod ends/ball links that Mike used on the way to us now and will be sure to send a set to your builder ASAP after we receive them next week.

Jason M.
SebArt RC USA
www.SebArtRC.com

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

LOL, I figured Jason cleaned them out. Gary, I think I mentioned that you should wait until I physically had them to make sure??? On the red ones, the ball was flattened on each end and didn't allow enough bind free travel IMO, so I ordered a few more types. I got another set of red ones that had round balls, but there was a fair amount of slop in them. Nobody likes sloppy balls. So, even though these things are cheap, I probably spent $50 including shipping to end up with four links that I liked. I'll use the rest on other projects down the road.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

That'd be great Jason, thank you...

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

You might have mentioned it but I was so buzzed over finally getting an engine on the scene I wasn't paying enough attention, besides the price tag wasn't such that I could not afford to get a few of the wrong ones initially but the situation changed when I saw the ones you wound up using listed as being out of stock....

My builder has been watching this thread, says he knows some of the guys you fly with and thinks he might know you??? Shoot me an e-mail if you're interested in details.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Landing gear install is pretty straightforward. We've already discussed the absence of hysol and that is something you need to do. I put little pieces of ply vertically between the t-nuts, someone above put a ply plate on the floor (top of wing side), I think that is a good idea as well. I like the little wooden gear door mounts that are supplied. I drilled holes to run the air lines, beats zip ties! I was going to cover or paint the inside of the doors, but I am in survival mode right now with sleep. I'm not sure how I got so much done on this thing a few weeks ago. Let's just say going to work each day is easier than being at home on the weekend! Stay at home mom's have a TOUGH job. I don't think men could handle it.

If you drill your holes in the thickest part of the mount, make sure your screws do not hit the airline. The scotch tape they used to hold gear doors on and keep the ailerons and flaps straight for shipping is near impossible to take off and leaves a sticky residue, goof off did the trick. It took a small amount of sanding/rounding off to make room for the brake line along side the inner rib.

As I'm typing this, I realized I have not checked the axles to see if there is a flat for the set screw, I need to check that. I don't wanna be the guy who shoots a wheel off his jet on landing, seen it too many times!

Kevin_W

My Feedback: (1)

The axles appear to be press fit into the struts, so you will not find any flat spots on them.

Kevin_W

My Feedback: (1)

The weather finally cooperated enough for me to finish painting the color on the wings and stabs.
The paint masks I made worked out perfectly. I am very happy with the way it came out, and I am sure I will be much happier in the long run not having to look at bubbled and wrinkled wings and stabs.



I just need to do a little more cleaning up of some of the mask lines, and a couple of little touch ups. I should be able to shoot clear on everything tomorrow.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

That looks awesome Kevin!

number27

Here are two of the finished products. Mine is the Red/White and Blue. Maiden-ed last weekend. 7 more flights under belt this weekend. C of G was forward last weekend. Trimmed more this weekend. Still need to move back. Was @ 242mm approx. Will move to 250mm and see how it trims then. No incidence issues. 45 degree up angle on its back drops nose. Not drastically. Iverted flight have to hold a little down to fly straight. My friend Ian maiden-ed his yesterday and will trim more with a few more flights. His C of G is further forward than mine but we all fly differently. Overall performance with Kingtech 170G am happy with. Smoke pump had issues so no flights with smoke. Main Oleo's are still too soft and not springy enough for me. Bottom out easily. This would be my main gripe with the model. Emailed Sebart Italy and nil response some two weeks ago. It does nice wheelies upon landing.

no full flap and mix with down as per manual this weekend either.

60mm down flap only for landing.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Black canopy makes that paint scheme really sharp. Glad to hear you are having successful flights.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I've got everything done but mounting the batteries. Today was the first time I put it down on the gear. It appears very tail heavy. I'm assuming the VT version might be a little more tail heavy before balancing due to the servos behind the CG and added weight of the tube at the tail end of the plane?? Did you guys get to mount the batteries where they're meant to go? My Ultra Bandit sits on its tail unless there is fuel in it, but it takes a lot of weight to push the Avanti's nose down. Is this normal? Did you balance it the UAT full? Gear down I assume?

Gonna fire up the turbine this afternoon :-)

kev-o

My Feedback: (1)

Gear down uat full is the way I always do it.

Kevin

DAMBUSTER

Hi ,to "number 27", Seba will be in Australia March 7th to 11th at a Pattern Comp in Albury if that is any help.
Cheers Dambuster.

number27

Receiver batteries in places provided in model

turbine battery is in nose going to move it aft in front of turbine and move smoke/led battery to nose

easily sits on its tail with no fuel. This was my initial concern also beingg tail heavy (no vector here)

c of g gear down uat full

too far away seba in Albury to visit. Wish they wud answer emails however

can773

My Feedback: (1)

Mike

I am contemplating getting one of these to play with. I am trying to wrap my head around using the 7008SB Rx with S.Bus on something like this. How are you managing the power distribution to servos and ECU? Are you planning to use and Powerbox gear to manage that, or just run batts to the Rx for the servos, and a separate one to ECU?

Thanks,
Chad

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I used s.bus on this plane. Futaba sells a signal wire now, or you could make your own. Just my opinion, but I think a power box is overkill for a plane this size. I have s.bus in a warbird, bobcat, and a mig-29. The whole idea is to lessen the amount of wires and complexity, not increase it! Here is what I did. Purchased a fromeco regulator with three outs. It can handle 20amps. The rudder and two elevator servos are in a hub with a signal wire and a power wire. So those three get their own power supply. The flaps, ailerons and thrust servos are getting power from the receiver. I figure it will be rare to ever have the flaps and the thrust vector going at the same time. I run as many as I can direct to the rx, throttle, gear, brakes, nose steering…. I did have to use a decoder because I ran out of slots. The third power lead from the reg goes to the smoke pump. My bobcat has everything powered from the rx and it has 50 flights no problems. I am using the power box srs on a big corsair with s.bus, thats a different animal, huge plane, big control surfaces. It has the s.bus splitters and dedicated heavier gauge wires.

Kevin_W

My Feedback: (1)

Chad,
I made my own bus cable for mine. I used 16 gauge wires (red and black) for the power distribution, and a single white 22 gauge wire for the signal. All of those run the length of the fuselage and I soldered on standard 22 gauge pigtails at every location along the length when I servo (and the receiver) needed to be plugged in. The voltage drop for 16 gauge wire is less than 1/4 the amount you would get running 22 gauge servo wire for the entire length, and since there is a pigtail soldered in place for each servo it minimizes the number of servo connectors between each servo and the receiver (and batteries).
I will try to remember to take pictures of the cable tonight and post them here.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

That is kick ass Kevin, I should have done that, just not enough time in the day for all this stuff.

Kevin_W

My Feedback: (1)

On another note, although it was a little windy yesterday I was able to shoot some clear on the stabs and other small parts that I glassed and painted.
Other than the gnat that landed in wet clear on the top of one of my stabs everything came out beautifully.

I did have a couple of potentially serious problems though.
First one was with the supplied sheet metal screws for holding the wing tubes in the wings. I drilled the proper size holes through the wings and into the wing tubes (and larger holes through the wing for clearance), then started threading the screws into the wing tubes. No problem at all with the longer screws for the front tube, but the screw for the rear tube started threading in then, with minimal force applied, twisted the head off almost flush with the bottom of the wing (stupid me for not threading it into the tube by itself the first time). Same results on the other side, but I was smarter and installed the screws into the tubes only, so when that one broke I was able to remove it with pliers.
I had a bit of a problem though since the rear wing tube was now stuck in the right wing unless I could get that broken screw out.
After three attempts at cutting a slow with a thin cutoff wheel I was finally able to get the screw to back out and get the tube out of the wing, but I had to cut into the wing sheeting in order to get a usable slot.
Shooting clear on the wings will now have to wait until I can repair this.
I will be re-drilling all of the holes and tapping for 4-40 socket head caps screws, and I would caution everyone else not to use the supplied wing tube screws.

The second problem I encountered was with the guide tube for the left horizontal stab. When I removed the stab from the fuselage part of the guide tube slid out of the hole with it.
It appears that the guide tube was made by hand by wrapping fiberglass cloth around a mandrel then removing the mandrel when cured (a method which I have actually used several times before), but it appears that whoever made this one either did not wet out the inner layers of glass enough, and/or they didn't wrap the layers tight enough.
The outer part of the guide tube is securely glued to the formers in the fuselage, but an entire inner portion of it came out.
I will try to fix it by applying mold release to the stab shaft , then put the inner tube on the shaft and wet out with laminating resin and installing it back into the airplane and let cure. I just hope wax and PVA are enough to keep from permanently gluing the stab into the airplane.
The only other option I can see is to cut and grind the entire tube out of the fuselage, then make and install a new one.
I am open to any other suggestions.